Walking Boots - Buyer's Guide

If there's one thing that can really ruin your day, it's a pair of ill-fitting boots, or simply ones that aren't quite right for what you're doing. So to help you beat the misery of blisters and spring lightly from rock to rock, here's our OM Buyer's Guide to walking boots. Everything you wanted to know about boots but really couldn't be bothered to ask...

Manufacturers really like season ratings, but they're not always helpful - for all year round mountain walking below the snowline, most people will be happy with a 3-season boot. If you occasionally wear crampons, a crampon-compatible 3/4-season boot is a reasonable compromise. If you plan to use crampons a lot, budget for a four-season boot for winter use and a lighter boot for the rest of the time.

Our advice would be to choose the lightest boot you're happy with, but bear in mind that on rocky ground or with a heavy pack, some people prefer a stiffer sole unit for added support. Fully-stiffened, four-season boots though tend to be too inflexible for comfortable walking and are a short-cut to the blister ward...

There's no such thing as the 'right boot', just the right boot for your foot. Different manufacturers make boots in different shapes and volumes based on what they reckon the typical buyer will want. That means Italian boots may be narrower than, say, American boots.

The shape the maker chooses is called a 'last and is actually a wooden or plastic artificial foot, which the boot is designed around. You want the brand who's last is closest in shape and volume to your foot, so shop around and try different brands. The best reviewed boot in the world is useless if it doesn't fit you.

Leather is a great boot material. Modern hides use special tanning processes to give a durable, highly water repellent finish while maintaining toughness and breathability. 'Fabric' boots on the other hand, tend to use a mix of Nylon or Cordura and suede leather with a wateproof liner for added protection.

Fabrics tend to be lighter and can be more comfortable at first, but the water-proof liners can be sweaty in hot weather. For all round performance, leather, we think, has the edge.

More and more boots are lined with a combination of wicking fabric and foam. High quality foam will give an immediately comfortable feel and minimise breaking in - not generally an issue with modern boots anyway - but fit is still crucial, so feeeeeel for those tight spots and potential rubbing zones.

Lots of boots both fabric and leather are now available with waterproof and breahtable liners like Gore-Tex. In some conditions these work pretty well, but our experience is that in warmer weather, they simply aren't breathable enough and can lead to very hot, sweaty, damp feet and eventually blistering.

Well-tanned waterproof leather performs extremely well and combined with a high-wicking Cambrelle or similar lining, is arguable a better all round solution for most walkers.

We'll give you some tips on actually buying boots later, but most boots are made along the same lines: an upper, designed to encase the foot and protect and support it, a stiffener or shank element which gives the boot lateral stability and torsional rigidity which you need to walk on uneven ground, a mid-sole to provide cushioning and an outsole of lugged rubber which provides grip and protection.

Some of this is visible from the outside, much isn't, and often it's the invisble bits which give better brands an advantage. There's a simple three step guide to checking the basics though:

1. Pinch the heel area of the boot upper between thumb and forefingers. You're looking for a stiff, supportive heel-cup which is essential to stability. If the area feels soft and pliable, your heel is more likely to shift around leading to overall instability.

2. Grasp the forefoot and rear section of the sole and try and twist them in opposite directions. There's should be minimal give. If the sole twists easily, it will give limited support on uneven ground and when using a heavy pack.

3. Try bending the forefoot. You're looking for a flex point that corresponds to where your foot bends. The boots doesn't need to be massively stiff, but it needs to flex where your foot flexes.

Get these three right and you're on the way to a good boot.

Lace hooks might not sound interesting, but a well designed set can make a real difference. We like free-flowing eyelets - look for rounded contours - that make it easy to get an even pressure with one tug of the laces. Even better are setups that allow you to lace the ankle and forefoot sections at different tensions, particularly with full winter boots.

Rubber rands and toes bumpers are great for protecting the leather upper, particularly in stoney or scree environments, less useful for lowland walking.

First, put aside a decent amount of time. You don't want to make a snap decision. Shop in the afternoon when your feet will have swollen slightly, take your own walking socks along with you and choose a shop with experienced staff and a decent spread of brands.

Explain to the shop staff what you're looking for and try a selection of boots for fit. In general terms, you're looking for a comfortable fit with no tight spots. The boot needs to be long enough that your toes don't hit the ends on descents but still prevent your heel from lifting when climbing.

When you've found a pair that feel about right, wear them around the shop for ten minutes or so and see how they feel - watch out for rubbing, itght spots, heel lift or a forefoot that flexes in the wrong place. If you're happy, buy them and take them home. Next wear them inside for a while. Good shops will happily exchange a boot you're unahppy with as long as it hasn't been worn outside.

Don't think that just because a boot has been reviewed well in a magazine, it's right for you. If it doesn't fit, it's next to useless.

If you really can't get a good fit, it's possible to modify leather boots to improve things. A skilled boot fitter can use a rubbing bar to stretch the leather in a localised area and remove a tight spot for example.

Another option is a volume adjuster, a flat foam insole that sits under your foot and effectively makes the boot smaller, this can also sometimes help with heel lift by raising your foot further up the tapered section of the heel.

It's better though, to find a boot that fits well in the first place...

Want the low down on individual boot models? Check out the OM Review Section.