 Hi sweeper, pm me your e-mail and i'll send it you.
|
 |
Thanks, twiglegs, PM sent!
|
 |
 You have mail.
|
 |
Awesome, you gents are great! I'm now starting to input my parameters, print the design, and then it's off the to the workshop for an afternoon of tinkering....can't wait!  Sweeper
|
 |
 don't forget to come back and post some pics. 
|
 |
Ok, I've built a couple of templates now, and am now playing around with which stove/pot combo I like the best before I actually complete one. I understand the entire clone storage issue now much better - part of my problem is that I am such a gearhead that I have almost too many options. That is the beauty of this program for me, the ability to make the paper mock-up first. Way cool! Another thing that has helped is that this is making me think about how much water I actually use when out hiking. Generally I never boil more than 500ml at a time, so a lot of my legacy Ti Pots are really way too big. My REI TIware 600ml pot is good, but it's a little on the tall side for the job. My second one I just made is for my Evernew Ti 800ml tea kettle. I think it's going to be the first "offical" clone made tonight.
|
 |
 I'm not keen on titanuim so i use a litech trek, i also don't like using mugs. I've found the litech at 1 litre capacity perfect for my needs as it's not too big but easily allows for wayfarers etc too. anyway whatever you go for i guarantee it will just be the first of many clones.
|
 |
So another clone maker is born. I am very pleased with my first effort, I'd still like to get a stove/pot combo that would be a bit shorter for storage. I haven't done the folds yet on the side of the clone, still debating how best to attack that. I did a test boil tonight using 12oz of cold water, 1oz alky and an old Brasslite Turbo I (single wall) stove that I have in my kit. It produced a full roiling boil in just under 5 minutes, that stove/pot combo usually always took around 6 before. Success! >anyway whatever you go for i guarantee it will just be the first of many clones. I agree, twiglegs, I have to build some smaller stoves now and a Heiny pot next. Thanks for coming through with the code! Thanks again to CP for doing all of the research and hard PS coding work - tweaking the script today reminded me of my old Fortran coding days back in college.... on punchcards for you oldtimers 
|
 |
 Nice pics, i see you've left a section hole free too, i meant to do that with my first one but got punch happy. Remember to come back and post pics of each one you make, always good to see a new clone born.
|
 |
Well, here was the last effort of the weekend, and probably the last for a while. I built a CC mock up with the Flissure option tonight for an Evernew Ti .9L and a Brasslite Duo alky stove while watching the good old Super Bowl here in the States, and here were the results: The only thing that still is a bit puzzling is the folds on the top section right below the handles - I need to look at it in the morning and see if that was cut correctly or not. CP, I'm not sure if you can tell from my photo. I think that I'll make some adjustments on the hole patterns as I think the top holes would be a bit large, or I may just use a smaller punch to make them on the final product. Other than that, I was very pleased with the results of this weekend's playing around with the CC - I have two units made for different combo's now and will be making this one as the one that will make it on my hike in a couple of weeks. I'd like to thank Twiglegs for the timely forward of CP's code and also for the encouragement, and CP for what must have been countless hours of efforts tweaking the code over the last couple of years. I'll report back when I've got some trail time on my new CC! Semper Gumby, Sweeper
|
 |
 hi guys it seems that some of you have been struggling to find the right aluminium for your designs of cones/windshields i wonder if i can help.I am stockholder of aluminium coil/foil and have supplied various amounts to Mole in the past, who im sure you all know.i would like to help supply if i can but need a bit more information like... what is the best starting width what is the best gauge(thickness) what temper is best for your needs (soft or hard) is it a case of different gauges for different jobs i await your comments ian
|
 |
 Hi yonky, Mole could supply you the info, i for one don't know the specs of the ali though i've used it. I'm quite happy to continue being supplied with the right type for my needs by Mole through you.
|
 |
 hi twiglegs , the first lot i sent to mole was soft temper,the last lot was half hard just wanted know which was best if any.
|
 |
 I'm sure Mole himself will be along soon to furnish you with the info.
|
 |
 > That is the beauty of this program for me, the ability to make the paper mock-up first. Way cool! It certainly makes creating the design pretty easy; the hard part is pasting the pieces together... Twiglegs asked me how many clones I'd made, and it's five foil ones, I think, but a whole bunch of paper versions, in various forms. A few feedback comments: i) I'd envisaged that the slot at the bottom would be opened up with the little 'V' slots cut out, but I guess it's not essential, just that I think the inward-facing corners are likely to snag on things. ii) you need to play with the hole sizes and number... row spacing is set automatically to give a triangular layout iii) The little triangular folded structure on the outer end stops the clone bowing out, but may not be needed in thicker foil; it should be folded out from the cone. Have a look at some of the photos earlier in the thread. iv) you can probably close up the handle width opening in the second clone; looks like a good 20mm on each side v) you have left the 'Flissure' setting enabled, but I'm not sure if you intend to use it (you didn't in the first). If you don't intend to make a Flissure (i.e. horizontal split) version, then turn off that setting and it will move the joint up. Otherwise, the Flissure overlap on the upper part is something that needs a little 'customisation', depending on the type of foil you use, the size of the pan, where the joint ends up, etc. Sometimes it's worth keeping the 'tails, sometimes it's not. Good first efforts, though, and thanks for posting pictures. Thanks to twiglegs for supplying the template in my absence.
|
 |
.JPG) hi guys it seems that some of you have been struggling to find the right aluminium for your designs of cones/windshields i wonder if i can help.I am stockholder of aluminium coil/foil and have supplied various amounts to Mole in the past, who im sure you all know.i would like to help supply if i can but need a bit more information like... what is the best starting width what is the best gauge(thickness) what temper is best for your needs (soft or hard) is it a case of different gauges for different jobs i await your comments ian Ooh - didn't see this the other day Hi Ian I haven't used the recent stuff myself yet - though Twiglegs has. I would imagine the harder the better really. The same thicknes. I got some of the US styleflashing recently. It's 0.092" thick and 'sprung' so probably an alloy? (Good stuff, but a bit heavier than the foil though - nearlier 2.5x heavier)
|
 |
CP - When I have time I'll post my CC with the flissure set up - I now TOTALLY understand the customization requirements of the handle section, lol....I made 4 paper mock ups before I finally cut aluminum, and when I did I found that it is much fussier on the cuts (at least with the flashing I can get over here). The configuration was for a standard esbit stove and US military trioxane tabs, and the tab got so hot that it deformed the CC in spots. I think that my measurements were a bit off (cone too small) which contributed. At any rate, I'm having a blast and have now built 4 clones of different makes and sizes. I have a new alky stove coming in the mail and when it gets here, I will probably make a new one for it as I am hoping it will be my go-to stove for hiking this spring and summer. Off to work now, Sweeper
|
 |
 I bought aluminium flashing off ebay, I think it may have been Yonky/Ian. If so the service was 1st class. Highly Recommended.
|
 |
 > I made 4 paper mock ups before I finally cut aluminum, and when I did I found that it is much fussier on the cuts It's true that the Flissure requires accurate cutting of those interlocking tabs, and I suspect mating the two halves will be a little harder with thicker foil. I tend to round all the edges of angled cuts, so they don't snag, and this also seems to help mating the Flissure joint. I can make the joint with the Flissure unrolled, or with the lower half mated. The end tabs of the upper Flissure joint should be mated inside the cone (otherwise they'd spring out). Once you've mated the halves a few times, the foil 'learns' its place, and mating is easier thereafter; rolling the Clone up for packaging also encourages the conic shape to form and make assembly easier). And, of course, everything improves with practice. > The configuration was for a standard esbit stove and US military trioxane tabs, and the tab got so hot that it deformed the CC in spots. I'd be interested to know where the CC deformed; handle opening, Clone joint, Flissure joint, rim, base or holes? I wonder if the flashing is actually an alloy; that might explain why it's stiffer (apart from the thickness). It might also explain why it softens at a lower temperature (look up alloy eutectic points). > At any rate, I'm having a blast and have now built 4 clones of different makes and sizes. Glad to hear you're having fun; that was the idea, after all... > I have a new alky stove coming in the mail and when it gets here You could make your own burner... just had a report from Paddy Dillon that the little red bull burners I built for him work at 3700m. But that's another story...
|
 |
 HI ALL, THANKS FOR THE GLOWING RECOMENDATION R-MAC...CHEQUES IN THE POST!
|
 |