 > Yeah sorry CP should've put joint without central tab as a label rather than alternative joint. No worries; I was just checking that I understood correctly what you meant by 'alternative joint'... I went to Asda looking for the mythical Cains FA 1l can. No luck; just their mild on sale.
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 What is this mythical creature which I have not heard about?
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I did find one at Asda a year ago but it was a steel can.
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BTW, I spotted that Help For Heroes do children's wristbands. Support your beer can Clone*, and our wounded soldiers. * not got one to try yet, but the diameter of 5.5cm sounds promising (cf 6.5cm can diameter). I was playing with beer cans at the weekend, cutting out the cap inner on a number of different sized cans. I've done this before when experimenting with insulated cups, and leaving the rolled rim on them makes them much stronger. A cap can be made by cutting the entire cap and rolled rim off another can; I have a lot of these from red bull cans used in burner manufacture. A 440ml can, lid & burner fits nicely inside the pot noodle container, with a bit to spare. 500 and 567 cans don't fit. I'm going to play with Flissure designs for one of these, with one or more HfH wristbands to act as support and heat protection. > I did find one at Asda a year ago but it was a steel can. Bah. Thanks Derek.
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Oh, and, having been looking for cheap camping mats to make a Skins pack, and rejecting the very thin ones in Poundland, I realised that the Poundland mats might make good insulation for cosies/Pot Noodle pots. But 'summer is over', and so the camping mats are no longer on display. Blast...
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my youth size livestrong band is 18cm circumference and fits tightly. very similar to your 5.5 diameter. I have forced the hollow bottom of my pint beer can into a bulge. It does not leak and increases the brimming volume from 600ml to 610ml. The chances of 500ml boiling over are thus slightly reduced. Any opinions as to any disadvantages of loosing the hollow bottom?
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| Edited: 06/09/10 20:16 |
Derek I think forcing the bottom of the can might be a good thing. I've noticed before when testing burners that you can get a blue flame right at the base of the can but it turns yellow in the hollow. I would have thought it would give you a flatter base for a more consistent burner gap.
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maybe I have lost some base heat transfer area. although I think the area is still there, just a different shape
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> Any opinions as to any disadvantages of loosing the hollow bottom? None that I can think of, provided that it doesn't protrude below the pressed ring and make the can unstable. If you need it to stand up on its own, that is... It may even improve heat transfer, because the gas flow may be better, without anything getting trapped in the dimple. Boil time tests will reveal all, perhaps...?
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I am quite enthused by the converted can bottom shape. I made a 5 mm taller clone, with a narrower "handle" slot, both of which increase the stored length. With the deeper inside dimension it fits inside better than the previous one. I can thus raise the band on my pot whilst the level of 500ml of water falls inside. Now I estimate 450 ml of the water is within the clone.
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. A 440ml can, lid & burner fits nicely inside the pot noodle container, with a bit to spare. 500 and 567 cans don't fit. I'm going to play with Flissure designs for one of these, with one or more HfH wristbands to act as support and heat protection.
I put a 330 beer can inside an Adsa noodle container. even that stuck out. I now assume you mean our "noodle pot inserted in the top step of another noodle pot " system. So with a red bull size burner it is only possible get a 440 ml can inside. I did think with a red bull burner with the right sized central hole you could have a non flissure clone rolled up conically inside the pot, wide end down, with the narrow end in the central hole in the burner.
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> I now assume you mean our "noodle pot inserted in the top step of another noodle pot " system. Yes, that's what I meant: pot noodle container (2 part), as opposed to pot noodle pot (singular). > I did think with a red bull burner with the right sized central hole you could have a non flissure clone rolled up conically inside the pot, wide end down, with the narrow end in the central hole in the burner. I don't like rolling Clones up that tightly. I can't give you a good reason for that, but it just feels too tight, as well as being a bit of a pain to actually do. A Flissure cone just plops into the pot noodle pot without any real effort. > I can thus raise the band on my pot whilst the level of 500ml of water falls inside. Now I estimate 450 ml of the water is within the clone. I won't be bothered if the water level is above the level of the Clone; at that point, it's unlikely to be gaining much heat, and the wristband will hopefully provide some insulation. A Flissure allows me to bring the Clone up as far as possible, and still be able to securely fit the wristband. For a 440ml can, the wristband will be just below the shoulder of the can.
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I don't like rolling Clones up that tightly. I can't give you a good reason for that, but it just feels too tight, as well as being a bit of a pain to actually do. A Flissure cone just plops into the pot noodle pot without any real effort.
The main problem I have with rolling my clones that tightly is the flattening and curving of the clone assembly tabs. I only have experience of party size Asda instant barbeque foil.
The flissure solution, stored outside the pot, inside the noodle container would be a solution to that problem. That may be a way I go. I personally am more concerned to keep a larger pot volume. 500ml useable (2 mugs) is a useful amount to be able to do. Any less and I could not pretend to cook for 2 and I mostly prefer 2 cup boils when solo. That requires the aerosol burner to fit all in the noodle container.
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> A Flissure allows me to bring the Clone up as far as possible, and still be able to securely fit the wristband. For a 440ml can, the wristband will be just below the shoulder of the can.
I have got used to my 50mm wide neoprene sleeve just above the band to grab the pot even if the flames are still burning. The band is a good bit hotter to hold than the neoprene. I think even with asbestos fingers, or gloves, one band is going to be hard to grab. As you say 2 or more will be better. With 50 mm I can oppose my thumb with 3 fingers for pouring.
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Possibly not the place to ask but since I was on the Ultralightoutdoorgear site and looked at the caldera cones and the weights listed. Since a lot on here have probably made their own and the man himself CP has the program thing to help so someone who reads this thread must know. Each pot cone/clone combination has its own pot height to burner optimised and the diameters of the different posts obviously important as are other factors. Anyway I am wondering with all this in consideration why the range in weights listed for the cone (and I assume replicated for clones built out of similar grade of material)? To me it seems strange that the Vargo Ti-Lite (which I own) has a 50 g stated weight but a 1300ml pot by Vargo is 43g. Also the Vargo 900ml is 34g but the 900mkl one from Tibetan is 58g. Do you see what I mean? Larger pans make for lighter cones (perhaps because the cone opening for the pot is wider the can stove heat is spread out to a greater diameter so to get best heat the cone is lower). A 900ml pot from two different suppliers but I believe similar sizes have significant weight differences. just seemed strange to me. Perhaps I need to make a few to understand. Website link showing cones and weights Sorry for a slight thread hijack and thank you for your patience.
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.JPG) TTG - just had a look at link page , the lighter weights are for the cone only, and the heavier for the cone plus stove... not consistent, but transparent!
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A 440ml can, lid & burner fits nicely inside the pot noodle container, with a bit to spare. 500 and 567 cans don't fit. I picked up two Tesco pots yesterday whilst in there and trimmed one as you described so they pushed together. A pint can fit inside and even rattled slightly so I assume you mean they won't fit with the burner set on the top of the can? I happened to find a tall tealight at work the other day. When ever I make a new can and cone I'm going to go for the tealight option. When I was doing testing a bit back 500ml of water started to make noise when using a tealight that would only hold 12ml of meths. This one will hold nearer 30ml or more so I'm sure it would boil on 20ml at most. It means it will all fit inside and the tealight weighs less! I don't like rolling Clones up that tightly. I can't give you a good reason for that, but it just feels too tight, as well as being a bit of a pain to actually do. A Flissure cone just plops into the pot noodle pot without any real effort.
I stuck my pint cone, which is a flissure, into the pot and it fit nicely. One small problem, now the can won't fit. The cone stops the can from sitting on the bottom of the pot. I think that with the pot noodle container the only viable solution is to roll the cone up so it fits in the can.
I'm going to experiment soon with epoxying a peice of steel wire onto the can to act as a permanent rim. Will let you know what happens.
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| Edited: 09/09/10 10:30 |
perhaps you can't get the flissure in with a pint pot but CP will be able to get the flissure round the smaller diameter of the red bull burner? It might be a faff but if you put the pint can in first would not the flissure sit in the wider central bit of the 2 part noodle container. Perhaps it would be wrapped round the centre of the can with a rubber band and then the assembly put in the noodle container. A tall tea light is just a simple open pot of a diameter smaller than 44mm. 12 ml of meths starts to make 500ml of water make boiling noises. Not bad. Is there yellow flame or soot?
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> A pint can fit inside and even rattled slightly so I assume you mean they won't fit with the burner set on the top of the can? Yes, I meant with a burner as well. Yes, the 500ml and 567ml cans fit into the two pots on their own, but I'd like everything in one container for protection. > perhaps you can't get the flissure in with a pint pot but CP will be able to get the flissure round the smaller diameter of the red bull burner? Yes, I had the same problem as Robert, so I put the burner in first, and then the 440ml can fits in nicely, with a bit of room to spare at the top. > I'm going to experiment soon with epoxying a peice of steel wire onto the can to act as a permanent rim. Will let you know what happens. When playing with the Budweiser bottles, I rammed a ring of a similar-sized can onto the bottle, just below the shoulder. Before I did this, I bent out the lower edge to make a feature for the Clone to engage into. You might try the same with drinks cans.
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