Wow this thread is long! I have read some but not all of it. Please could someone help me using this "script" as i am unfamiliar with it is it some kind of programme jargon or am i stupid? What i a looking for is one for a Msr Titan for those that have seem to have done a lot of work on this and are happy to do so could they not somehow add a template for us to print of and use? Cheeky i know but here goes!
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I completed my first C Clone last night. Test burn with a V8 chimney burner boiled water. I didn't check time or fuel consumption, but just getting a boil was a step in the right direction for me(I'm new to the whole myog alcohol burner thing). I can't seem to post pictures in the forums(probably cuz I'm new), so check my gallery for pictures.
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 ukracer: send me a PM with an email address and I'll send you the script and the instructions, which should explain all you need to know. It's written in PostScript, which is a printer/graphics language. You need to install a viewer for PostScript files, but, other than that, you only need to change a few numbers in the file to suit the pan and burner you're using. SHI-Warlock: just trying to figure out who you are (out of those I've sent scripts to)... I'm assuming you're using my template, that is... Nice-looking clone:
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Real name is Sean. Yes, I am using your Script. The only issue I had was that gsview did not show the whole pattern on the page, maybe because it was such a small clone. I remedied this by printing the part it showed twice and then flipping it over the second one and taping it together at the center line. I then modified the tab\slot on the reverse end to make it join up correctly. Other than this small issue everything works great. Thanks again, Sean
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> could they not somehow add a template for us to print of and use? Well, we could, but there are so many possible pan/burner combinations that it would be a rather futile exercise... Unfortunately, I don't think OM supports a method for file download, otherwise I'd put the script and instructions up and let people download them.
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> The only issue I had was that gsview did not show the whole pattern on the page, maybe because it was such a small clone. It usually can't, because the template won't fit on one A4 page... So the script will print up to 12 pages to print all the template (there are 14 pages in all, including the first "draughtsman's page", and a debug variable dump page at the end), and you paste them together. Usually only two sheets are needed. I'm pretty sure this is explained in the readme... <checks: yes, it does>
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Sorry I mis-stated in the origional post. I checked all the pages and only a small part of the form was on page 3. Not nearly enough to complete the pattern, it only showed a small corner. There was probably about 1/6 of the pattern missing.
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| Edited: 06/10/10 19:03 |
Send me your modified script and I'll have a look; may be another bug lurking... There should be a 50mm overlap between all the pages (the setting 'pasteOverlap').
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...unless you're American, using a US letter paper printer and haven't set the script to use US paper sizes. That might explain it.
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That could be the problem. That setting confused me a bit. I am American. So what setting\settings need to be changed?
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I figured it out. I had left the \largePaper setting at 1 and should have changed it to 0. Now the whole pattern is displayed. Thanks for prompting me to look at it again.
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Glad you figured it out, Sean. I realised what the problem would be, lying in bed last night. I usually send an example template without the largePaper setting on, as most people will only have A4/Letter printers. But I'd been developing the script for my own use, and then put the new code back into the example file, but forgot to put the largePaper setting back to 0. So anyone who's received the script since 29/10/10 will need to check this setting. Hopefully, I've emailed everyone else...
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Below is my latest effort. Thanks to the info that a cone can fit sideways in the pot, and a bit of luck, I am quite satisfied. On a whim I purchased earlier a titanium cookset from steep and cheap for half off. Turns out it is nice and wide (1L pot with frying pan lid) and I was getting sick of storing my rolled cone in my gear, so the time was ripe. Using a couple of failed paper experiments I chopped 14mm off my pepsi can plans, and ended with a short 28mm burner. It stores inside the rolled cone in the pot and boils 2 cups of water with 15ml fuel in about 4 mins. Cone and stove weigh about 2 oz. The burner still holds enough to bring a full lliter to a boil with a minute or two to spare.Everything fits rolled in the potin a fairly thick pack towel with a coule of mm to spare. In the pic if you look at the ground below the handle you can see the tab I bend out to take some of the pressure. Thanks CP and everyone for all of the valuable advice. Marcus Argh! Having trouble posting. Here are the links: http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/gallery/viewfullsize.asp?sp=&v=6&uin=29001 http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/gallery/viewfullsize.asp?sp=&v=6&uin=29002
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| Edited: 12/10/10 22:58 |
<hmm... can't post the images either... another FF 3.6.10 bug..?> That pan looks quite similar to the Alpkit MyTiPot, only with handles for both pans (MyTiPot has a removable, exhangeable handle. Can you use the lid as a frypan in the Clone? I had to do the same cut-down burner for a Trangia 1l flissure. 4 minutes is a very good time for a 2-cup boil, especially on 15ml. I've been experimenting with some very thin (50 micron) Ti foil. Not yet convinced it's strong enough to make clones, but I've not quite sorted the Flissure joint yet, so we'll see... A MyTiMug flissure in it weighs about 18g. But then a roasting tray Al version only weighs 21g. One benefit of the Ti foil is that you can roll it up as small as you like (well...) and it unrolls flat, and doesn't acquire a permanent bend like Al does. It cuts fine with scissors, and you can even cut slots within the body of the foil. It also just about does the score & fold trick, but the score needs to be very firm.
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| Edited: 13/10/10 13:05 |
CP, Yes, the frying pan works on the clone. I could make a simmer ring I suppose if I wanted to use it properly. The flashing material cuts fine with scissors as well, believe it or not. And I use a standard school style hole punch. The boil time I posted should have the caveat it was indoors under controlled conditions. However, it is better than my previous setup (regular non-flissure cone.) I never ended up using my flissure that you referenced earlier, only becuse I didn't like the pot for which it was designed-- the anodized AL took too long and too much fuel to boil. Forgot to mention I use some fiberglas insulation inside the burner to absorb the fuel, can't remember where I read about doing this, but it seems to reduce diminishing heat as the fuel gets low. And there is a limitless supply in the attic. That Ti foil sounds interesting, looking forward to your latest creation. Marcus
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| Edited: 13/10/10 15:29 |
I've been experimenting with some very thin (50 micron) Ti foil. Not yet convinced it's strong enough to make clones, but I've not quite sorted the Flissure joint yet, so we'll see... A MyTiMug flissure in it weighs about 18g. But then a roasting tray Al version only weighs 21g. One benefit of the Ti foil is that you can roll it up as small as you like (well...) and it unrolls flat, and doesn't acquire a permanent bend like Al does. It cuts fine with scissors, and you can even cut slots within the body of the foil. It also just about does the score & fold trick, but the score needs to be very firm.
Is that sourced from Steve Evans in Canada or do you have a closer source?
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Fibreglass in the burner seems to give a more even burn in some designs, IME. No hot mid and cooler end. The Ti is from a more local source, and is currently under test. He may chime in...
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I was doing some more testing under the same conditions and strangely the performance has dropped. Now it takes about 5 mins to boil 2 cups, and it uses more than 15m... almost 20 to barely get a healthy boil. The only thing I changed was adding more vent holes on top of the cone. Maybe my initial measurements were off, but I don't think so. Can you think of any other reason this would happen? The jets appear weaker. Maybe there is a leak in the burner, or it is clogged or something? I am thinking about enlarging the jets.
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| Edited: 16/10/10 15:29 |
I was messing around with some prototype burners and made a VERY interesting (at least to me) discovery. Dealing with the low profile burner requirements I tried a couple of crude chimney designs. Part of one of these was the bottom half of a 3oz cat food can, a bit smaller in diameter than a soda can. I thought open cup burners were inherently inefficient, but to get a baseline I filled it with 15ml ethanol and gave it a shot in the cone. Just a plain aluminum cup of fuel. To my surprise, it liked the cone's ecosystem! It brought 2 cups to boil in 5 mins... and boiled for an additional minute! Not the best time, but good efficiency, at least for me. I filled it with 30ml and it boiled a quart in about 11 mins, with a minute to spare. This is disappointing because the burner now looks so crude...  and I wasted a lot of effort on more complicated designs. Also, I am not sure how it will behave in the wild, as it seems like it would be more suseptible to whatever breeze penetrates the cone. I'll try out packing it with fiberglass with screen on top to contain it... added benefit of being spillproof. Also it won't look as lame. Anyway, for some reason a crude open burner likes this cone... very puzzling.
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| Edited: 17/10/10 15:45 |
Anything that boils 2 cups in four minutes is burning pretty hot, and probably losing a lot of heat to the environment. So adding another more holes at the top means that it may now be losing a lot of heat that you were managing to trap previously. > This is disappointing because the burner now looks so crude... It's certainly disappointing when you find your carefully crafted burner, with beautiful jets, doesn't work any better than a simple open cup... You feel cheated somehow... I've taken to using small, open-cup burners for very small clones (e.g. the tiny Gelert cup). Just a simple aluminium bottle cap. It may be tha, when used in the Clone, is becomes a bit like a chimney burner, with the Clone created the chimney outer and encouraging an updraft.
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