Well, here was the last effort of the weekend, and probably the last for a while. I built a CC mock up with the Flissure option tonight for an Evernew Ti .9L and a Brasslite Duo alky stove while watching the good old Super Bowl here in the States, and here were the results: The only thing that still is a bit puzzling is the folds on the top section right below the handles - I need to look at it in the morning and see if that was cut correctly or not. CP, I'm not sure if you can tell from my photo. I think that I'll make some adjustments on the hole patterns as I think the top holes would be a bit large, or I may just use a smaller punch to make them on the final product. Other than that, I was very pleased with the results of this weekend's playing around with the CC - I have two units made for different combo's now and will be making this one as the one that will make it on my hike in a couple of weeks. I'd like to thank Twiglegs for the timely forward of CP's code and also for the encouragement, and CP for what must have been countless hours of efforts tweaking the code over the last couple of years. I'll report back when I've got some trail time on my new CC! Semper Gumby, Sweeper
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 hi guys it seems that some of you have been struggling to find the right aluminium for your designs of cones/windshields i wonder if i can help.I am stockholder of aluminium coil/foil and have supplied various amounts to Mole in the past, who im sure you all know.i would like to help supply if i can but need a bit more information like... what is the best starting width what is the best gauge(thickness) what temper is best for your needs (soft or hard) is it a case of different gauges for different jobs i await your comments ian
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hi twiglegs , the first lot i sent to mole was soft temper,the last lot was half hard just wanted know which was best if any.
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 > That is the beauty of this program for me, the ability to make the paper mock-up first. Way cool! It certainly makes creating the design pretty easy; the hard part is pasting the pieces together... Twiglegs asked me how many clones I'd made, and it's five foil ones, I think, but a whole bunch of paper versions, in various forms. A few feedback comments: i) I'd envisaged that the slot at the bottom would be opened up with the little 'V' slots cut out, but I guess it's not essential, just that I think the inward-facing corners are likely to snag on things. ii) you need to play with the hole sizes and number... row spacing is set automatically to give a triangular layout iii) The little triangular folded structure on the outer end stops the clone bowing out, but may not be needed in thicker foil; it should be folded out from the cone. Have a look at some of the photos earlier in the thread. iv) you can probably close up the handle width opening in the second clone; looks like a good 20mm on each side v) you have left the 'Flissure' setting enabled, but I'm not sure if you intend to use it (you didn't in the first). If you don't intend to make a Flissure (i.e. horizontal split) version, then turn off that setting and it will move the joint up. Otherwise, the Flissure overlap on the upper part is something that needs a little 'customisation', depending on the type of foil you use, the size of the pan, where the joint ends up, etc. Sometimes it's worth keeping the 'tails, sometimes it's not. Good first efforts, though, and thanks for posting pictures. Thanks to twiglegs for supplying the template in my absence.
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.JPG) hi guys it seems that some of you have been struggling to find the right aluminium for your designs of cones/windshields i wonder if i can help.I am stockholder of aluminium coil/foil and have supplied various amounts to Mole in the past, who im sure you all know.i would like to help supply if i can but need a bit more information like... what is the best starting width what is the best gauge(thickness) what temper is best for your needs (soft or hard) is it a case of different gauges for different jobs i await your comments ian Ooh - didn't see this the other day Hi Ian I haven't used the recent stuff myself yet - though Twiglegs has. I would imagine the harder the better really. The same thicknes. I got some of the US styleflashing recently. It's 0.092" thick and 'sprung' so probably an alloy? (Good stuff, but a bit heavier than the foil though - nearlier 2.5x heavier)
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CP - When I have time I'll post my CC with the flissure set up - I now TOTALLY understand the customization requirements of the handle section, lol....I made 4 paper mock ups before I finally cut aluminum, and when I did I found that it is much fussier on the cuts (at least with the flashing I can get over here). The configuration was for a standard esbit stove and US military trioxane tabs, and the tab got so hot that it deformed the CC in spots. I think that my measurements were a bit off (cone too small) which contributed. At any rate, I'm having a blast and have now built 4 clones of different makes and sizes. I have a new alky stove coming in the mail and when it gets here, I will probably make a new one for it as I am hoping it will be my go-to stove for hiking this spring and summer. Off to work now, Sweeper
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 I bought aluminium flashing off ebay, I think it may have been Yonky/Ian. If so the service was 1st class. Highly Recommended.
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> I made 4 paper mock ups before I finally cut aluminum, and when I did I found that it is much fussier on the cuts It's true that the Flissure requires accurate cutting of those interlocking tabs, and I suspect mating the two halves will be a little harder with thicker foil. I tend to round all the edges of angled cuts, so they don't snag, and this also seems to help mating the Flissure joint. I can make the joint with the Flissure unrolled, or with the lower half mated. The end tabs of the upper Flissure joint should be mated inside the cone (otherwise they'd spring out). Once you've mated the halves a few times, the foil 'learns' its place, and mating is easier thereafter; rolling the Clone up for packaging also encourages the conic shape to form and make assembly easier). And, of course, everything improves with practice. > The configuration was for a standard esbit stove and US military trioxane tabs, and the tab got so hot that it deformed the CC in spots. I'd be interested to know where the CC deformed; handle opening, Clone joint, Flissure joint, rim, base or holes? I wonder if the flashing is actually an alloy; that might explain why it's stiffer (apart from the thickness). It might also explain why it softens at a lower temperature (look up alloy eutectic points). > At any rate, I'm having a blast and have now built 4 clones of different makes and sizes. Glad to hear you're having fun; that was the idea, after all... > I have a new alky stove coming in the mail and when it gets here You could make your own burner... just had a report from Paddy Dillon that the little red bull burners I built for him work at 3700m. But that's another story...
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HI ALL, THANKS FOR THE GLOWING RECOMENDATION R-MAC...CHEQUES IN THE POST!
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HI ALL, THANKS FOR THE GLOWING RECOMENDATION R-MAC...CHEQUES IN THE POST!
LOL, I bought some flashing off you last year and then phoned about different sizes, you seemed surprised when I told you what I was using it for.
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Yep - Yonky is sound - some of the foil I have used/supplied came from him.
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I am having some issues trying to get my design to print on one 11x17 sheet of US Tabloid paper. Here are my settings: % normal user print options
% paper type select ISO A3 or US tabloid
/ISOpaper 0 def % use ISO paper [0/1]
/largePaper 1 def % A4/letter or A3/tabloid select [0/1]
% print settings
/fullSize 1 def % print the design full size [0/1] % paper overlap
/pasteOverlap 50 def % multi-page pasting overlap
% printing properties
/pageBorder 5 def % page border
/lineWidth 0.5 def % line width
% constants & strings
/tabloidX 279 def
/tabloidY 432 def
My design should fit. Once it is cut out and taped together its fits well inside one sheet of 11x17. The output I am getting now appears to be centering a normal US letter 8.5x11 sheet of paper in the 11x17 space.
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NVM, I got it figured out.
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> I am having some issues trying to get my design to print on one 11x17 sheet of US Tabloid paper. The script won't necessarily do this; one of the problems associated with trying to offer a script that is versatile enough to cope with just about any pot & burner combination is that the output isn't always perfectly optimised for that combination. It will produce something that works, but may not be absolutely perfect. The reason I haven't tried to optimise the script to fit a template on one page is that it's pretty rare that a template will fit on one page; most people don't have access to large page printers. > NVM, I got it figured out. For future reference, what was the solution?
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| Edited: 02/03/10 12:43 |
For future reference, what was the solution? I played around with the X and Y translate functions essentially changing the margins and moving the drawing around the page. Instead of add or sub the pageborder I just added or sub'd fixed values.
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Okay. That's probably a bit arcane for the average user... Congratulations for delving that far into the code; most people, even experienced programmers, are freaked by PostScript...
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| Edited: 02/03/10 19:36 |
Well Thank You! But don't mistake my small understanding to mean that I comprehend the balance of your shrouded brilliance.  Thanks for your work on this program for the clone. It has been a great help and a fun project!
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 Well CP, with your very helpful readme and updated script, I threw one together for the Kmart Grease Pot out of some aluminum roof flashing. I couldn't get the top part to link together properly; I'm not sure if I perhaps misunderstood some part of the printout but there weren't any tabs or anything to hold the top part together. I just ended up making a little tab and a slit for it to go through. Doesn't work perfectly, but gets the job done. Leaving for the AT in about a week with my new toy; will do some nice field testing. Kitchen tests show this one to boil water almost 2 minutes faster than my previous attempt at a Caldera Cone (perhaps I didn't have enough ventilation holes?). Here are pics: Little glob there is leftover duct tape glue that got stuck on after I tested the stove and forgot to take off the duct tape  Fits almost perfectly into the pot, along with stove, pot grips, measuring cup, lighter, and trusty pot scrubber with room to spare for some salt/pepper. Very satisfied with the final product; your work is much appreciated.
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> I couldn't get the top part to link together properly; I'm not sure if I perhaps misunderstood some part of the printout but there weren't any tabs or anything to hold the top part together Another script tweak required, perhaps... The script sort of assumes that the pan will have handles that extend almost to the Flissure. When using a pot grab, the handle cutout is much smaller. TBH, I'm not sure that a fastening is absolutely necessary in the upper part, but you could add another folded-out tab and slot joint if you wanted. This extra joint will make mating a little more difficult. Very nice job you've made there; hope it does the job on the AT. Would be great to hear how you get on with a long-term test like that. Pre-trip field testing certainly recommended to make sure you're happy with the thing.
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Life Venture Flissure Clone in use in Scotland recently. Protected by a snow wall to keep out the strong winds. Brewed up a nice blackcurrant and ginseng tea, although I got a bit keen and burnt myself on the first mouthful... d'oh! The lighter needed a little coaxing to get the butane to evaporate; in trouser pocket for a while, and meths burner warmed in the hand.
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