I have decided to return to climbing,(I learnt at Uni and then had toe nail problems so couldn't continue.....)

I hired rock shoes from Uni which were a bad and painful fit, and didn't help.

Anyway the time has come to get my own...so what should I look for in terms of fit etc

Cheers
Dave

Rock shoes? I thought the dutch were crazy with their wooden shoes!

Don't believe anyone who teels you that they have to be 3 sizes too small to be right

Start with a pair that are the same size as your normal shoes. In my opinion, climbing shoes should be comfortable enough to wear for prolonged periods, especially if you're a beginner. They should be a snug fit, but certainly shouldn't cripple you. If someone says you need a pair two sizes smaller than your normal shoes, I'd ignore them.

Like boots, try on lots of different manufacturers, and walk about in them to make sure they're not going to cripple you.

I wear a pair of very thin socks with mine. This helps prevent them getting smelly. I get called a numpty by some image-conscious idiots, but I can handle that.

I think it's only when you're starting to climb well into the Es that you need to start thinking about shoes that are so tight they hurt.

I'd also suggest that if you're beginning, get a pair of board-lasted shoes, rather than slip-lasted, i.e. get some with a stiff sole, rather than ones that just provide a rubber 'second skin'.

Oh, and keep your toe-nails well trimmed; I keep a pair of nail clippers with my climbing stuff.

Numpty :-P

Well, I'd call you an image conscious idiot, but it's clear from your picture that you aren't...

;-)

I have some very thin trainer liners that are a coolmax thing from M&S that would do for that.

Also, (and I know this sounds weird but it's true...)

If, say, you try a size 9 in one style, and it's a teeeeeeny bit small, but the 9.5 is a teeeny bit big, don't hesitate to ask to try on a different pair in the same size. Miniscule size differences can occur in manufacture that you wouldn't notice in street shoes, but are apparent in rock shoes.

Also, not every make/model will fit you whatever size you try. I wanted some in the sale, but none of the sale models fit me, no matter how many I tried - the shape wasn't compatible with my foot at all.

And finally, another reason for not getting slip lasted shoes to start with - your footwork will be shite to start with, and your shoes will wear through in a matter of months. My shoes are marketed as "beginners shoes" and after 8 months of very heavy wear, the sole is still perfect. I'm a little better now, but when I first started my footwork was atrocious and I'd have wrecked posh shoes, especially climbing outside!

Ahhh
now I understand why there are beginers shoes, my foot work is sh!te now!
so it can only get worse ;)

Yeah, well bashing your toes into rock, being crap at friction moves and sliding the sole over gritstone etc; none of that is very rubber-friendly. So thicker, more substantial soles will take more abuse.

The abuse I hurl at my shoes, especially when it's hot and my feet have swollen and my toes hurt, is another matter!

Captain - those are my very best togs - the height of fashion LOL

I'm now paranoid and will be changing my photo!!

Dont go to needle sports and let some rock monkey persuade you to buy some instruments of torture telling you they need to be too tight as they will strech LIAR!!!!

well I think its going to have to be bristol tomorrow (Sat) as I don't know anywhere in bath

Only piece of advice I can give is not to expect any pair of rock shoes to feel comfortable. They're not designed to be comfort, but to get you up rock.

On top of that you may find that a pair of thin trainer socks underneath might make them more comfortable (and will help reduce the pong long term).

I thought I'd get a bargain off e-bay, a pair of second hand five-ten's for £10. Though they're the same size as my street shoes, I can't even get my feet in them. Now I've got to wait for some free time to actually go and try on all the different shoes and buy a pair that fits.

I suppose comfort was the wrong word, basically not agonisingly painful

Discomfort but not pain I think is the best rule.

I've spent some money today!

Petzl caldris harness F&T don't stock the BD Bod in XL and the L wasn't quite big enough and a pair of scarpa veloce's rock shoes!
See here

Nice - except for the greenness...

lol I like the greeness