 I've been using Nikwax wash-in for a few years now, and it sort of works, but I've never managed to get it to bead like it does in the photos.
However, whilst experimenting with the Aldo cycling jacket, I decided to make a determined effort this time.
My washing machine is normally clear of detergent residue, as I don't use powder, but liquid in a dispensing ball, so no build-up of clag in the powder tray to worry about.
This time, I ran the machine on a boil wash using soap flakes to wash some towels prior to the Nikwax wash. Then I measured the Nikwax and diluted it before pouring it into the powder tray, and ran the nearest I could find to a '40 degree synthetic cycle' on my machine; 40 degree acrylic and wool.
The result was more impressive than I've ever achieved before, and I will be repeating this process in the future (in fact, I ran two more things through last night).
It still bothers me that I have to use so much TxDirect, when most of it simply goes down the drain. The garments certainly don't weigh 150g more when they're done. I may have to experiment with spray-on, even if it involves improvising something with my garden pressure sprayer...
ps. I nearly posted this on the 'Soapbox' forum. Geddit? ;-)
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Sounds like you're doing it as well as it can be done! You have to appreciate that our instuctions can only apply to the ideal situation. Washing machines, for example do vary immensely. In the lab we have a range of machines which all use different levels of water! Imagine how many more models are out there!
Different fabrics will bead in different ways. Beading doesn't alway indicate the best performance either. We've come across many competitors products which bead far better than ours but the effect is purely superficial and it will wet out much more than TX-Direct treated fabric using an ISO spray rating test.
As for the amounts you need to use for Wash In, our new formulation of TX-Direct which should be hitting the shops in the very near future only requires 100 ml to be used for a single garment.
And for spray on, your improvision with a garden sprayer should work well. It's what we do!
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 Dave - I know this has been mentioned before, but since you're here...
I don't have a tumble drier. I understand that I can activate your wash-in products with an iron and/or a hairdryer, but would like to know from you how far I need to go. The iron in this house (grr) seems to be permanently stuck on 'steam': I can't seem to turn it off. Will that prevent the activation from 'taking'?
If I use a hairdryer, how long should I expect to have to spend? I don't konw wehther we're talking 5 minutes or half an hour.
Ultimately, is a tumble drier the most effective method of heat activation, or do these other methods work just as well?
Finally... I've just bought a Fuera Smock. What product should I use to proof it?
Many thanks!
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p.s. re: activation, would it be sufficient to leave the garment hanging on a hot radiator overnight?
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Thinking about it, of course, since Nikwax is a water-based suspension of the Tx10 polymer, I don't suppose there's 150g of polymer in 150ml of product... And, since I noticed that 150ml weighed near-as-dammit 150g (I measured it into a measuring jug, sitting on my digital kitchen scales...) I guess most of it is water.
So I shouldn't expect my garment to weight 150g more. And neither would I want it to...
But it still nags at me: it's a convenient way of getting the polymer onto the garment, but it seems inefficent. And, being an engineer, inefficiency bothers me...
Time for some experimentation with the garden sprayer. My neighbour will be pleased; he'll think I'm going to launch an assault on the weeds...
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CP - I share your anguish about pouring all that stuff into the machine. It seems disproportionate to me too :)
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Ah, PW, you need to take the 'Nikwax test'...
Then you'll learn that Nikwax doesn't need heat activation.
<hmm...I seem to be turning into the Nikwax marketing department>
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 I don't have a tumble dryer either and was just wondering the same thing. Ten minutes with a hairdryer certainly helped a lot, but of course also means ten minutes of the dog running around and barking like a looney.
Hanging them up next to a radiator would be so much more convenient...
Does anyone have any idea how the heat actually improves the beading..?
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Ahaa! Thanks, CP: I think you've just reminded me that I was actually thinking of the rival product because <blush> I'd read that it was more effective... and so that's the one I've used.
I will buy some Nikwax tomorrow and re-proof my Cascada trousers, and also my Fuera Smock if I can find out what to use. Dave??
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Yes, would still be interested to hear from anyone who's tried, even though it's said not to be necessary... Beading RuleZ!
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If your smock and trousers are Analogy, and not just windproofs, you need to proof both the shell and the pump liner. So wash-in is what you want, I think.
<see, I didn't pass the quiz for nothing!>
Parky tumbles, I think. The Nikwax instructions say you can tumble, but I don't think it's _necessary_. I wonder if it might help to improve the 'setting' of the polymer, though, and thus prolong the life. A question for Dave Ellis, I think...
Grangers fluorocarbon-based treatments have an explicit instruction to tumble after application, and that the longer you apply heat, the better the treatment will last.
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Peewiglet, you don't need to use a tumble dryer to activate. It can help improve the water repellency, but this certainly isn't the case for Nikwax fabrics, of which your Paramo garments are made. You need to obtain the Wash In TX-Direct for your Paramo garments. The Fuera Smock could be done with spray-on, but the Cascada's need the pump liner to be proofed as well to work!
Captain Paranoia, tumble drying also has no effect on the durability. We actually tried washing some samples in Tech Wash recently until the proofing wore off. Even without tumble drying we got bored doing it after around 35 washes!
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 Hi, I always used to use the spray on version on my LA flash jackets I'd put the jacket on a plastic sheet or ripped open bin bag then spray it and scrub the stuff in with a nail brush, leave for ten minutes, let drip over the plastic for ten mins , then remove drips from jacket and leave to dry , give it a blast with a hair dryer.Recycle the excess fluid back into the spray bottle.
Grangers extreme wash in works very well, give it a try.
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 see what you get capt by reading the instructions!
your machine perparation was excellent as not only did you have clean towels but also gave the machine a "maintenance" wash.
it might be london water (been through too many bladders perhaps) but i always have terrible trouble with tx direct.
after a warm tumble dry it leaves white smears in places. i leave it until the next day and then just give it a rinse cycle and tumble it again for excellent results. (all this is planned around what the Angel is likely to be mascerating/marinating in the machine with her potions)
imho a tumble dry results in a better finish. true or not? who knows!
it also leaves a "fatty" smell in the fabric which "blows" out after a bit of wind has got hold of it. (sorry dave, but it does!)
it is excellent stuff indeed!
(drops another plug for a proofed peter storm soft shell)
oh! and remember to set half load on the machine.
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oh and doing all this by hand requires patience to get a result as good as a mchine.
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<thinks!i wonder how tx direct works on shoes...(seconds pass).....rummages through shoes and acquires a test pair>
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Parky Again, the white smears sound very unusual. If you get them again, please contact our customer services. It would be good if we got to take a look at the garment effected. All postage will be paid for, of course.
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i think it's just where it doesn't rinse out properly. it isn't a problem.
it affects everything i wash in it, not just paramo.
same result using two different machines/dryers.
i use 300ml (i never do just one item). may be "remove surplus product with a damp cloth" as this doesn't happen with a tumble.
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Actually reading, your post again, setting to half load "may" be the problem. The TX-Direct would be going on in a more concentrated solution.
As for the fatty smell. I can see where you're coming from. Used to get that as a user before I even started working for Nikwax.
Rest assured the new formulas which are now winging their way to the shops will eliminate this completely.
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Yes, Parky! Mine have a rather icky 'fatty' smell too, after re-proofing!
<wrinkles up little snout in recollection>
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