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Climbing Gear \ Helmets

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Climbing Helmets
In a pickle? Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios or Ecrin Roc
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What helmets do people use? I know that its probably only going to get used a few times a year, but after reading some stuff on the BMC site and in the reviews section, I'm confused.
The outdoor shop are currently doing the Black Diamond Half Dome for £30, but I'm getting conflicting info as to how safe it is.
The Ecrin Roc, seems to be popular, but I don't really want to spend £45-50 on somthing that is going to spend a lot of its life on a shelf.
That brings me to the Elios I haven't found a lot of info on this one at all.

Help please?
Edited: 06/01/07 19:01
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all mainstream climbing hlemets are going to be UIAA tested and so safe for the first strike they receive
Any reason why you aren't considering the CAMP Rocstar?
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I haven't really looked at the Rocstar? Will have a look thanks.


As I use helmets for both climbing and caving, IMHO you can't go wrong with Petzl, As you may realise, when caving, we wear them for extended periods and I have found them to be the most comfortable.


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Try on the helmets you are interested in before buying as if you don't find it comfortable you are less likely to wear it.

The Ecrin Roc and Camp Rockstar are all ABS shell helmets and durable but are heavier. The Grivel Salamander, Black diamond half dome and Petzl Elios are lighter with slightly thinner outer and a foam for impact absorption.
Petzl Meteor 3 is lighter still but has a even thinner outer and foam for impact absorption but is designed to only take one good impact.

I think all helmet manufacture say you bin the helmet after it has taken an impact.

I use a Grivel Salamander a bit more expensive at £50 but I find mine comfy.
Also look at this link
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Fantastic article at link Pete. Very though provoking. I had been musing about replacing my too old PETZL helmet but had been fobbing it off and buying more new gear instead - not any more. Old one is going in the bin and I am going to get a new one now.
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Camp Rockstar is on offer (23 quid) at GoOutdoors at the mo.
Petzl's Ecrin Roc is well worth the money. It's bomb proof (unlike some 'lightweight' models that need to binned if they take a knock - like bike helmets) and is the comfiest helmet I've used (sadly it got nicked/lost). I use the Elios now (GoOutdoors were doing them for under 30 quid before Xmas) but after a couple of hours it can feel a little uncomfortable, unlike the Ecrin.
Regardless of what you get, make sure you write your name, tel. no. and the date you bought in in marker pen on the inside - replace it after about 5 years whether it's had knocks or not as the materials can deteriorate and weaken.


Funnily enough, I picked up my new Ecrin Roc today.

I got it discounted for £40 as a special favour from a friend, so I am not able to say where as Petzl would apparently get funny over it and maybe stop supplying him.

I have now got to invalidate the warranty by drilling holes in it to fit the lamp bracket!

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I've got a Petzl Ecrin Roc and have used this climbing, winter mountaineering and caving and ifnd it extremely comfortable. I also have a Petzl Myo 5 and this fits all the right places to make it comfortable as well.

Paid £30 but bought it a couple of years ago. Well worth the money.
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Another vote for the Ecrin Roc. Fits well, solid fastenings and can take one or two minor scrapes (my opinion, not a validation!)

A couple of very nice people have just donated a load of these for the team:

http://www.headtorches.com/headtorches_rechargeable.html

They are absolutely massive, but fit well on the Ecrin. As does my Myolite..
Edited: 07/01/07 20:00

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