I may be asking for too much, but I'm looking for a single soft-shell smock or jacket that'll cope with everything from 'just a bit too cool for just a base layer' to 'rather chilly', perhaps supplanted by a lightweight hardshell if and when it gets really cold. I'll be backpacking throughout Europe, Russia and into central Asia. Just to make things a little trickier, I need it in an extra-small or ladies' size as I'm tiny, it absolutely has to have a hood and it'd be nice if it didn't look completely weird.
The default choice seems to be the Buffalo Special Six, though I would have to special-order to get one in my size. Buffalo's new Alpine Jacket looks very nice and is on offer from a couple of places for less than the Special Six and hood would cost me, but I haven't heard anything about it and appears to be made of some own-brand shell fabric instead of pertex. The Montane Extreme Smock is well-featured and astonishingly cheap but I've been told it's far too warm for anything but the depths of winter. The Rab Vapour-Rise Jacket looks too light to cope with winter, but it might be ideal if I do layer with a hardshell.
Both the Buffalo and Montane Extreme jackets are too warm in anything but freezing conditions. The Rab Vapour Rise and similar jackets by Montane and Berghaus are surprisingly warm -- I've never needed anything else when moving. Stick a Primaloft or similar belay jacket on when static.
From what I've seen the buffalo alpine jacket is cut rather largely, and seems to be aimed as more of a belay jacket than their standard stuff.
Rab do a VR 'climb' jacket which has a thicker weight of fleece inside for winter use. As far as I can see the baltoro described above is made from powershield rather than pertex/fleece as per the VR?
What about a paramo jacket, supplemented with a primaloft for when it gets chilly? Then you don't need to take a hardshell along too.
You might be better going for something lighter. The old Marmot DriClime Shirt is still in their range because it's exceptionally versatile. Packs smaller than a fleece, sheds surprising amounts of rain and snow and has a full zip and arm vents. You can layer it over a synthetic shirt when the temperature drops, or even another DriClime shirt (which I do, courtesy of some fortuitous clearance sale shopping). There's only one very small pocket, however, and the pit vents cannot be closed, which can be a little breezy in very chilly weather. The standard version doesn't have a hood, but the produce a number of variations (including a hooded one,last time I checked).
I also have a Buffalo Special 6, but it's a much warmer beast. Despite the excellent ventilation I wouldn't recommend it for the 'just a bit too cool for just a base layer' conditions you specifiy, but it's a fabulous top when the mercury plummets. Buffalo also make a lightweight version of their tops which has more in common with the Marmot DriClime but with added features such as hood and kangaroo pocket. A friend of mine has used one for years and loves it; these days they are happily available in plain black and not just the black and purple version he has.
One quick note on the Buffalo hood: The standard version is terrible. If you're in conditions where a hood is necessary then consider the Expedition hood, although you might find it a bit too big.
Another option could be something like a Paramo Velez smock which has some warmth, but nowhere near as much as the Buffalo special 6 or Extreme, but also good venting options. You can buy it with a removable or fixed hood.
For a jacket a Viento has lots of venting, or a Third Element where you can remove the arms and have body cover only if conditions dictate.
The other benefit is that you would not need to buy a hardshell as they will keep you dry.
Edit - Sorry Ben - did not notice you had already suggested before I posted.
I'd go with ben and pgj's option. May be with a fleece rather than an over layer. Have many of the jackets mentioned , I like pile/pertex but its got to be really cold for it. Paramo is versatile think that will suit your needs.
Going down the softshell route you could look at something like the Haglofs Sharkfin Hood, good weather & wind resistance, has a hood, DWR face treated for water repellancy & has had some stonking reviews. Next on my kit list !
Buffalo SS6 or Montane Extreme for year-round use? No thanks.
Shelled micropile such as Rab VR might do you three seasons, but still be too warm for summer (as will anything with insulation).
Add a Primaloft jacket for when it's really cold in winter, and for stops. Adjust for different temperatures by using different base layers; lightweight to PowerStretch.
If you need to get something made to measure, then you might consider Paramo's Nikwax Analogy made by Cioch.
