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Have I cocked up a little???
 
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Have I cocked up a little???
Crampon compatibility et al
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Shaun Cleary
07/12/10 11:46
 Hill-walking hero 8 forum posts

Ok, so, in my eternal wisdom I start upgrading my gear a little.  Managed to get an early Christmas bonus and, having planned ice climbing next year, bought myself a nice shiny new pair of BD cyborgs.  I retired my trusty old freneys as intend on buying a new pair of B3s around Christmas time.  My quandary is: I own a pair of Scarpa Manta (M4's) and Nepal Treks, both B2 boots.  I have read nothing, anywhere, regarding the cyborgs compatibility with B2 boots except a short comment on backcountry.com that someone had been using this combination and it worked well.  I don't want to run the risk of damaging the crampons (though they appear bomb-proof and the soles on my Mantas are pretty damn stiff) but have been invited out on a mountain walking weekend (next weekend) that will require crampons.  I have loaned out my G10's so only option is the cyborgs and mantas (and to look like overkill!).  Opinions would be appreciated.

Also, any recommendations on boots for general mountaineering and ice climbing?  I'm caught between the Freneys, Nepal Extremes and Scarpa Omegas.  My Plans for next year are the Atlas 4000ers, Kilimanjaro, Mt Kenya and Mt Meru but also ice climbing in Rjukan for a few weeks so want a boot that will pretty much suffice in all of the above without compromising too much.  I'm swinging mostly towards the Freneys and Nepal Extremes, having owned both (nepal treks however) in the past.

 I could just bite the bullet and buy them before Christmas and stop worrying about the crampon compatibility but the Mrs wouldn't be overly impressed!

 Cheers

Shaun 

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When Pandas go Bad
07/12/10 12:38
 Rookie 797 forum posts 8 photos

 I'm so jealous of your itinery for next year!

I climbed Kili last year and its not technical so normal walking / hiking boots will suffice and I suspect the same is true of Mt Kenya and Mt Meru.  The key thing is comfort and probably water proof as it can get really cold up there and you don't want wet feet - altholugh it depends when you go - however we went just before the official rainy season and it rained every day - although it stopped the day after we summited!

Obviously for your ice climbing you will want B3's, but I wouldn't use them for Kili as you will be walking for several hours each day (I used an old pair of goretex walking boots, very flexible and not rated for crampons).

We are climbing Mont Blanc next year and will be using hiking boots most of the time, but will hire B3's & crampons for the actual climb.

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Edited: 07/12/10 12:39
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huskyman
07/12/10 19:42
 Alpine improver 3633 forum posts 2 photos 7 reviews 1 bookmark

Looking at BD's site the Cyborgs look like B3's, though it does say they are 'semi-rigid', which would normally mean B2's. As it also says Ice Climbing and Hard Routes I think they're most likely B3's. They might work on Mantas if you have full straps, the 'clip on' versions could 'pop off', that is if the new Mantas can take clips. If there is snow about where you are why not try them on a short walk, could give you an idea if it would work.

 As to the mountains you are going to the G10's will be fine, depending on when you go you might not even need them. Check the kit lists of companys who your going with, or if not going with a company, it would be worth checking anyway, to see what kit is required/reccommended.

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Shaun Cleary
08/12/10 10:00
 Hill-walking hero 8 forum posts

Cheers for the replies.  I have this habit of 'loaning out kit' as an excuse to upgrade as have found that this appeases the Mrs a little who, after trying her hand at most or my outdoor 'whims' as she used to call them, has now decided best to just leave me to it and hope that the obsession may go away.  I have loaned out the G10s to a friend who is coming on the same trip so sadly cant pull them back.  Having spoken to BD the clip (rubber strap version) works fine with B2 boots and has never created any issues if fitted right. The pro version will however occasionally 'ping' off.  They've even been kind enough to say that should the crampons be damaged through usage in this manner they will replace.  Can't get better than that.  The crampons are intended to be used for next weekend in Wales with friends, a winter Toubkal ascent and time in Rjukan so hopefully they will be seeing some snow otherwise I'll be greatly disappointed!

Boots for Kili - I will be using Meindl Softlines for the majority of the trek as these are like slippers - well worn in and should probably be retired by now but don't have it in me to do so.  Pretty sure I'll be taking the mantas for summit night as find these plenty warm.  I wont be taking trainers for around camp as the softlines are comfy enough and have done several long day treks in these. 

The itinerary for next year is a lucky one as managed to pull a few strings work-wise (working for a charity and offering fundraising opportunities can have its benefits).  Managed to get a few good deals on most of then (the Atlas trip inc flights has cost me little over £450 so cant justify not doing it whilst I can).

 I have fixed the boot issue.  I'll keep with the mantas and nepals for the most part or my winter mountain walking and, having found scarpa omegas half price in my size for the ice climbing and anything more gnarly I eventually get around to doing (*read - check ebay in March for cheap size 8 plastic boots*).  This has allowed me to justify (grovel for) a pair of C2's and will probably go for the Grivel Air-techs this time. 

Roll on January when the credit card bill hits the doormat!

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huskyman
08/12/10 19:42
 Alpine improver 3633 forum posts 2 photos 7 reviews 1 bookmark
I'd choose a 'heavier' crampon, either G10's or G12's, given the things you what to do. The Air-techs, IIRC are more a ski-mountaineering crampon, so would probably wear out sooner than the others. IMO, also G12's can cope with 'easyish' ice climbs, so that would be my choice for the extra £20 or so.
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