Hellos.... for the past couple of years I've hiked and done easy via ferrata in the Dolomites wearing my Inov-8 shoes - they've been great (the shoes and the routes). But this year we're doing some more challenging routes - Via delle Bochette, in Brenta. Does anyone have experience of doing difficult VF in lighweight shoes? Are they suitable? What sort of footwear features are necessary for tougher VF routes - e.g. is it best to have a stiffer sole, or good edging ability? Would something like the Inov-8 F-Lite 230 work? Or go for a stiffer shoe - some I came up with for example: Five Ten Camp Four; Merrell Chameleon 3 Blast; Haglöfs Roc Legend; Scarpa Zen. Thanks very much - Nick.
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 I've done the Via delle Bochette. Shoes will be fine with the following points - they might well wet out when crossing snowfields - they should be able to take a light crampon for the glaciers. The holds are generally big enough that you are not going to roll off edges so stiffness is not an issue. I used Scarpa El Caps which were fine. I am not familiar with the shoes you mention, but I know Matt (who might appear) rates the Camp Fours.
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I've done the Bocchette Alte and Centrale three times - in Scarpa Mescalitos last time iirc. Something like Scarpa Zens would be great (I have some), but you need a solution for walking up the Tuckett glacier, or crossing patches of hard snow in gullies - a non trivial prospect early in the season, or after snow. I found goretex socks good to keep my feet dry. I went late in the season; earlier I reckon a light boot would make more sense, and light crampons and axe. While I use Inov-8s a lot in the UK, I don't think they would be an enjoyable solution for the Dolomites - it's far too abrasive and rocky and inov-8s aren't up to much rock bashing, nor is the lacing that snug or the fit that precise compared to a more scrambling oriented shoe. Doesn't mean you can't use them, but I wouldn't pick them. Perhaps if you wanted to run up to Groste from Madonna ...
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| Edited: 18/08/11 19:28 |
  Did someone call? 
Most of my VF-ing has been done in typical '3-season' boots. Last time I went I took 5.10 Camp Fours. They were great for all the walking. I only did a small amount of easy VF stuff on that trip, but based on that I'd happily use them on harder routes, certainly the 'middle' grades, I'd have to think about the hardest ones. And as stated above there's the snow aspect to consider. Inov-8 wise, I use Roclites a lot. I'd take them for walking but not via ferrata. But Inov-8 now do the Griproc 325 as a lightweight take on a scrambling shoe with a sturdier upper, sticky rubber, climbing zone on sole etc. I've got a pair but not used them enough to make a fair recommendation yet, but I think I'd be happy to give them a go on via ferrata.
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If it's boots for vie ferrate you're after you'll possibly find ideal ones in Italy which aren't even sold here, for example the La Sportiva Ganda Guide. Depending on how much snow you'll encounter you might even consider something like the La Sportiva Trango S Evo, which you can get over here and would make a good lightweight winter mountaineering boot when you got back to the UK, and the stiffness might be welcome on those long long ladders! A lot depends on the time of year. Edited to add: In fact, thinking about it, I most definitely would not want to be descending a 300 step metal ladder in the rain wearing anything that said Inov-8 on it.
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| Edited: 19/08/11 11:36 |
Great to have such a quick & helpful response, thanks all so far. It's given me more confidence to use shoes rather than boots - but definitely not a light running shoe (tho the Griproc looks interesting - I hadn't seen that before - cheers Matt). It's also good to know about the snow patches. We're going in early September - I'll try to find out in advance what conditions are like. Any more?
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Scarpa Zens would be a good bet - I've been more than happy with mine scrambling on Skye and Glencoe - they have the slight advantage over other similar scrambling shoes that the heel has a wide deep-ish tread meaning you'll get better grip descending loose or soft terrain. Some Kahtoola crampons should more than take care of any hard packed glaciers or snow in north facing gullies. Here's a pic of a small heart in the mouth moment, and here's another - the latter is protected with a wire, the former isn't. If the snow in that latter gully is hard, you have to kick steps into it, otherwise you may dangle inelegantly, so make sure you're suitably equipped.
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| Edited: 19/08/11 19:04 |
There's an interesting review of scrambling footwear in the latest (October) issue of TGO. It's done by Dan Bailey (who wrote the Cicerone Press books 'Scotland's Mountain Ridges' and 'Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland'). He considers approach shoes, mountaineering boots and 'plain' walking boots, discusses the design and pros and cons of each, and comments on their performance for scrambling, graded climbing and general walking. It's aimed at suitability for UK scrambling but, with the proviso about snow already mentioned, that would correlate pretty well with via ferrata suitability imo. Interestingly he gave Best Buy among half a dozen approach shoes to the Inov-8 Griprocs, which I certainly found reassuring since he's clearly used them more than I've been able to so far (iirc he said he'd climbed VS in them!)
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Waiting for my October (?!) TGO to arrive.... thank you Matt.
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Just to let you all know that I went for the Griprocs for our Dolomites trip. They did the job very well, as a walking shoe with enough tread for loose and steep surfaces, and with decent friction and edges for scrambling and via ferrata. It was nice to wear shoes, rather than boots, in the warm weather. They were fine on wet rock, although I should mention that this was nice clean limestone; I'm looking forward to trying them on slippy, licheny Scottish and Welsh scrambles. We crossed a few patches of snow and a couple of very small glaciers. In soft snow, the tread provided enough grip and the edges could just be kicked in, at least on easier angles. For steeper or harder snow I'd try my Microspikes. I was a bit worried about the Griprocs being narrower than my usual Inov-8s. On the advice of Swaledale Outoors (thank you) I went a half size up. Initially my toes still felt a bit pinched, but the long lacing, almost to the toe, meant I could slacken off at the front - the thin laces help with this. It's hard to say much about durability after six days, but it was all on rough limestone and granite and I had no problems. Thanks again everyone for your advice.
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| Edited: 19/09/11 10:43 |
Good to hear that the Griprocs worked out well, Nick. Hope you had a good trip...
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PS - the Griprocs are half price at the mo at Rock & Run - just now (13 March) they have all sizes 8-12, including halves: http://www.rockrun.com/products/Inov8-GripRoc-325.html
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