Hi everybody.

I'm putting together my first rack and want to use it in summer (in the peaks and down bristol way) and winter (lakes/scotland). What type of rockcentrics would be best for this - rockcentrics on wire or dyneema??

Also what sizes would be best (i'm looking at getting 3-4 sizes to start)

Thanks for your help!

Although I think the answer is down to personal preference, my understanding with the two systems is:

Wires are better for vertical rock climbing: + You can place wires higher above your head (out of reach cracks) because wire is more rigid (you can even double a wire up to place in even higher out of reach cracks). They stand upto abrasion better.
- They are more expensive, plus you need to use them with a quickdraw so even more expense and heavier weight to place one protection.

On a cord (ie. Dyneema) are better for mountaineering, scambling and low grade climbs: + You don't need to add a quickdraw so less weight. Slightly more versitile as you can use them as a sling over v.small spikes etc.

I've got mine on longer cord so they are more useable as slings and runners as well as pure protection.

If your not sure how to use a nut on wire or cord as a sling or runner you need to seek advice as there is a definate right and wrong way to do it.

Paul

With regard to a first rack, I would suggest:

Nuts on wires size 1 to 10 (you can usually get a deal on buying all ten, shop around! incl. ebay).

Hexcentrics sizes 6,7,8,9 on cord. It's cheaper to buy the hex. separately and then just get the shop to thread their cord (get someone who knows what their doing).

4 - 6 quickdraws to use with the nuts, you'll need more if you decide to buy rockcentrics on wires (wiregate snaplinks [karabiners] are better in my opinion).

4 long slings.
2 short slings.
2 - 4 locking snaplinks.
2 - 4 spare wiregate snaplinks (it's often cheaper to buy one quickdraw and remove the snaplinks than buy two separate snaplinks)

Needlesports in Keswick would be a good start to compare prices. They had a good price on their ownbrand wiregate quickdraws a few years ago.