 Now, here's a question that will reveal my incredible stupidity... I take it that you can't use a Caldera-like cone with a remote canister gas stove? Usually, the windshield instructions for such stoves advise that a gap be left between pot and shield. But I was just wondering whether one could make a caldera version that would work with remote canister stoves.
Almost certainly the answer is no, for the reasons hinted above (build up of CO2, inefficient use of burner etc.)
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 CP, as regards a supply of thin aluminium sheet, printing plates are made from Aluminium, in 0.14, 0.235, 0.278, 0.335 & 0.380 mm thicknesses (may vary slightly between manufacturers). Generally one side (the printing side) will be a matt finish that has a tough anodised layer, the other side will be shiny, with a much thinner anodising. Used plates will probably have a curve to them where they've been fitted on the press, unused plates should be flat. If you know a friendly printer then you should be able to get a couple of used plates out of their scrap bin, or perhaps an unused one that was made with a mistake on it.
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 Don't see any reason why you can't design a Caldera Clone to suit a remote canister stove; just add as many holes as you see fit, and a cutout at the bottom for the gas line, and perhaps cutouts to allow the feet to stick out, if necessary. You'd need to set the parameters so that the pan sat at the right place (i.e. touching at the cone rim, whilst sitting on the pan support). A bit of accurate measurement would be required, that's all. Shuttleworth, ta for the printer's litho plate tip; I'd been reminded of them a while back on one of the other threads. I used to do the film society's publicity at Uni, so I should have remembered them. Admittedly, they switched to paper plates as they're fine for low volume runs, and much cheaper.
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Uh, right. So, conversely, if I cut a few holes in my MSR WindPro windshield I should be able to wrap it against the pot (MSR say you should leave a gap between shield and pot---that's why I thought Caldera and remote canister stoves didnae go together!)
Thanks for the info, Captain!
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 You should never fully enclose a 'screw-in' gas stove, but i shouldn't think a remote stove would be a problem?
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I'm not sure it's a question of being a problem. I thought it had more to do with cutting off oxygen supply to the burner and allowing CO2 to escape. The MSR windshield has not ventilation holes at the bottom or top, unlike the Caldera. And I was wondering why! I often cook in the porch and I've read of people having the Caldera/meths combination flaring at them. The WindPro shouldn't flare up so I thought I could get the best of both worlds!
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or rather, that will happen when we get refillable gas canisters...
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Now, if only I could find some of this mythical 'oven liner' that the Yanks seem to find at every corner shop and supermarket... Disposable barbecues?
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Finally got hold of some foil to make a couple of Clones. One for the AGG 700ml pan, weighing 24g (vs 25g prediction): and one for the AGG 2 quart pan, weighing 37g (vs 38g prediction): As you can see, I changed the joint design between making the two, in the light of experience of how soft the foil was. This made the original mitre joint a bit unstable mechanically; it would open up and change the effective diameter of the opening. The tab method is one I've been using on drink can burner inner walls for about ten years, only these tabs are a bit bigger... I opted for holes, rather than slots for two reasons: i) I think holes provide better wind resistance than slots
ii) I think holes provide a design less prone to damage than slots.
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| Edited: 08/09/08 18:41 |
And holes are easier to do 
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Not necessarily... To make a slot, you'd punch two end holes, and then cut between them. Cutting is less of a faff than punching, so a smaller number of slots could be easier to make than lots of holes... Now, if you wanted to make nice, radial slots, you'd have a bit more trouble cutting between the holes...
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| Edited: 06/10/08 01:50 |
