Some years ago I used dubbin constantly on my old Scarpas. Waterproofing was never an issue: just apply dubbin regularly. Then I went lightweight, which means not using thick heavy leather. Then I started uisng the spray on stuff for waterproofing. Then I found it doesn't work - or hardly. On my HiTec boots, its barely sufficient for just one moderately moist walk. The conclusion seems to be with HiTec, their waterproofing is rubbish. Indeed it is, if you use the spray on liquid stuff. I've recently returned to using dubbin. Slight concern it will over soften an already soft boot, but it seems OK. The waterprrofing is now excellent. I suggest there's been a little industry duping on this matter. Dubbin always was very effective, and it still is, and its still very cheap. Recommended - don't forget dubbin.
|
 |
 Does it not rot the stitching or something though?? Well thats what I was told, use polish regularily, and dubbin if your boots got trashed and really needed the oils replacing, which was pretty much every time I came back in off ex. Always did a good job of making my boots look semi black again though!!
|
|
I also read someone suggest it makes leather too soft. HiTec boots are already soft, its one reason why I like them - training shoe comfy. They've had no damaging effect - and its remarkable how much I've rubbed in, by warming them in the oven a little, adding some more, repeat, I did that about 6 times initially with real slap on quantities and could have done it several times more. That suggests, the natural oils were almost totally depleted. And of course, the spray on liquid stuff doesn't condition the leather it just deposits a film of liquid on the surface. I can't see how it could rot synthetic stitching. Dubbin used to be used all the time, and no one had problems with it. The spray on liquid stuff is very expensive, considering a cheap tin of dubbin will last a generous year or so.
|
|
 warming them in the oven. possibly fraught with concern as the glue melts. the normal boot wax in a tin/jar and shoe polish as just as effective and make your boots look prettier too.
|
|
You have to watch the temperature of course, about 100 degrees, and remember to switch off after 10 minutes or so. Nothing to worry about, and it makes the leather absorb the dubbin like banks absorb money. Shoe polish has a different consistency. It doesn't absorb so easily, and polishing it is an important stage to create a surface barrier. Dubbin sinks in, right inside the fibres, and polishing it is irrelevant.
|
|
have tried applying hot, melted shoe polish. or come to think of it. could it be "safer" to heat the dubbin up at by standing it in some hot water? works for the other wax i was on about as does a blast with a hairdryer about the seams to make it melt into them.
|
|
.jpg) Army leather equipment used to be treated with dubbin to which about 10% neatsfoot oil had been added. I,m not talking boots or polished item but real working leather.I still use this on my leather boots they resist peat and heather acid,s better than any modern treatment.The neatsfoot oil allows the dubbin to penitrate the surface more easily.
|
|
Yes I used to melt dubbin and apply it to boots and jackets, come to think of it, when I was a teenager. I forgot about that. I think gently warming the boots is probably easier, and more effective. Really is astonishing to see how much of it my HiTecs have absorbed, making me conclude that by spraying on the canned liquid stuff, supposedly modern technology, I was actually neglecting them. They haven't gone floppy and useless, super soft, they've just got waterproof for the first time I've had them.
|
|
 What do they weigh now? Are they still lightweight boots? 
|
|
Well they may indeed be a few grams more now, but I don't have any scales so I can't answer that. I do recommend it - stuff the modern rip-off thinking that says treat leather with expensive skin-level canned liquid stuff.
|
|
Greetings all, over the years my time in the military has taken me to various battle terrain. From wet jungle to hot desert and all the variations inbetween. My combat boots were traditionally hi-laced leather with jump soles and DUBBIN was the only product used. No ingress of water at any time during service. My parade/inspection boots were boned to a hi-shine and on those I used traditional black boot polish (Kiwi, Nugget etc) For post military PMC and then Law Enforcement use my boots were Hi-Tec standard leather and then Hi-Tec V-Lite (Ion Mask) with Vibram soles. The constant has been DUBBIN and the only HI-TECH (pun intended) change has been a hair drier to really spread the dubbin and allow deeper penetration into the leather. Sand (well mostly sand but sometimes mud and other dirt) was always thoroughly removed before the application of my trusty dubbin.
No lace rot at all was evident during any of the above deployments. I hope my comment added value to this topic. Regards. Bodie.
|
|
Kevin,can't have a better recommendation than that.Cheers.
|
|
I have been using Dr Martins for life and work , much more heavy boot than Hi techs but as a theme park Team leader for 4 years you need that! I use the boned technique mentioned by Kevin to achive that high shine. To soften my new boots ( which happens once every 4-5 years with DMs) I use the following but would always recommend dubbin for a full rejuvenation. Tos soften boots I use Dr Martins wonder Balsam for the outside and Vaseline on the in side. apply leave over night, remove excess and wear and repeat dead easy  Hope this helps any readers
|
|
 Are we talking 'proper dubbin' (the dark brown sticky stuff), or solid wax (e.g. Nikwax)? I wouldn't use the former on a modern boot, as it softens the leather. This is fine if you want to soften some military-issue boots made from the cheapest, toughest, knacker's yard hide known to man, but if you want your expensive Italian Anfibio leather boots to retain their shape, then stick to a decent wax.
|
|
