The plates were good to work with. The only issue I had with them was that when folding them they were a but brittle, I have had a couple of tabs break off. The material also did not punch very well, it was more inclined to bend and took 3 or 4 goes to make a hole!
Use the trick of increasing the fold radius then; I noticed that your fold looks a bit tight.
If you increase the fold radius, you won't be able to curve the tab, or if you try, you're likely to fracture the fold. So split the tab into two pieces; same as for using Ti foil.
As for punching, it may depend on the type of punch you're using. I use a core punch, but it's very dependent on what's underneath it. I generally use a couple of layers of cornflak packet (i.e. two thicknesses of card) on the quarry-tiled floor of my kitchen. You need the support to be firm (tile) but give some protection (card). If the support is too yielding, the foil will simply deform into the soupport, rather than punch a hole.
Proper, paper-style punches work better, since the mandrel punches into the mating hole, so there are no issues about support. But I haven't found such a punch with a deep enough throat.
The plates were good to work with. The only issue I had with them was that when folding them they were a but brittle, I have had a couple of tabs break off.
as well as using a shim to fold them around, you could try heating the tab fold area for a bit to anneal it (= soften - make less brittle) - I do this with when using USstyle ali flashing - which snaps if you don't anneal it.
I will try heating, splitting and increacing the fold radius on the tabs on the next one.
I was using a core punch, from what you say I think I need to use a firmer base.
I tried a paper style punch, but it broke after 3 holes!
The next one is going to have to wait a bit though as I am in the middle my first propper sewing project at the moment, a bivy and shaped tarp madeout of silnylon and 1.1 oz ripstop.
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