After reading some rather Disturbing and Often Uncorroborated reports on the net about trekkers in Nepal continuing to be harassed or worse my Maoists, I thought that it might be a good idea to start a new forum here up to enable Everyone to post there own experiences.
To keep the forum current, Please only post your experiences from the Autumn Trekking season and onwards.
Did you meet Maoists on your Trek – Or Not ?
If you did, please post your encounter giving dates and details of your trek.
If Not, Please also post, also giving dates and details of your trek.
This will then give us a Balanced Up-To-Date picture of what is happening in Nepal NOW !!
Did the Annapurna Circuit last month. Only maoists I met were the ones I went to seek out in their office in Chame. I went to get their views on the current political position but as I speak no Nepali as they spoke little English, I didn't get much from them other than a cup of coffee.
Generally, I did hear of a few road blocks but there was no hassle and no one was asking for money.
I recently completed a 23-day trek through the Ganesh Himal and Manasulu region of Nepal. I will report separately on this mostly favourable experience, but one unfavourable aspect is time-sensitive during this high season for trekking.
Despite being told that the Maoists had entered government and had therefore ceased extorting money from trekkers, our group found they were back in business. Early in our trek, at Machha Khola, a town about two days away from Ghorka, the Maoists had set up a desk and checkpoint where they handed out literature in English giving their version of their activities (reproduced below). They explained the terms (USD25 or 1,500 Nepali rupees per trekker), let us pass through to our nearby campsite, then visited the campsite at night to collect. After some bargaining and discussion via our sirdar, the Maoists agreed to a discount of 100 rupees per trekker. We paid and were allowed to continue unharmed. A receipt for the amount paid was provided to the trek leader.
The Maoists' leaflet characterized transactions like this as 'voluntary donations', though they are anything but that. Aware of the Maoists' reputation for maiming or murdering trekkers who refuse to pay, we paid. The nearest army was in Ghorka, lounging inside a razor-wire-encircled compound. There was simply no recourse.
After finishing the trek as scheduled, we heard reports of Maoist extortion in other trekking areas. Apparently the Maoists no longer honour their Nov 2006 agreement to enter government and cease extortion and violence against trekkers. It has been estimated they would get less than ten percent of the vote if elections were held, so they may have concluded they had nothing to lose by resuming extortion operations.
I want to alert other trekkers to be prepared for this situation, so that they can decide in advance how they plan to respond. I would also be interested in learning of other trekkers' recent experiences with the Maoists. Finally, what is the role of the trekking companies (expedition outfitters)?
<1> Do they regard this extortion as merely a cost of doing business?
<2> If so, do they inform trekkers in advance and build it into their fees, or do they pass this additional cost onto the trekkers?
<3> Do they gather information before the trek on the whereabouts of the Maoists, and plan alternate trekking routes (if available)?
<4> Has anyone observed any passive or active cooperation between expedition outfitters and the Maoists in regard to extortion of money from trekkers?
The rest of our trek consisted of wonderful views of snowy peaks, steep valleys full of terraced rice-fields over multi-colored glacier- fed rivers, spanned by swaying suspension bridges shared with cattle and goats, and dozens of charming villages and villagers. I will report separately on it after sorting through the many photos and posting some to my website.
[Maoist leaflet handed out at Machha Kohal, Nepal]:
Appeal to Foreign Tourists
Dear Friend(s),
Welcome to Nepal, the land of valiant Gorkha fighters, and warmest greetings from the C.P.N. (Maoist) and United Revolutionary Council, Napal (URPC).
As you would be aware, you are visiting this magnificently beautiful country in the most important juncture of its history. The old feudal and monarchical Nepal is fast crumbling under the tremendous pressure of the people's revolutionary struggle and a new democratic & republican Nepal is emerging on the horizon. The CPN (Maoist) and the URPC, a revolutionary united front organization under the leadership of the proletarian party, have played a leading role in this historical transformation. Tens of thousands of best citizens of this country have sacrificed their precious lives during the ten years of People's War and the historical mass movement against the feudal monarchy. Thousands others have gone missing and many more are maimed and disabled in the process. The poor peasants, workers, women, the so-called untouchable castes, peoples of oppressed nationalities and regions have made the most sacrifice in this historic revolution.
For the past one and a half year we have been trying to complete this democratic revolution through peaceful means. A federal democratic republic is sought to be institutionalized through the election of a Constituent Assembly after the abolition of the hated monarchy. However, the age-old feudal monarchy is likely to wage a final battle against the people before it is completely smashed and dumped in the dustbin of history. The constant disturbances in Terai and the bomb explosions in Kathmanduy are perceived as the handiwork of the royal forces to wreck the peace process in the country. The CPN (Maoist) and its affiliated organizations are, therefore, in constant vigilance to resist this counter-revolutionary backlash and ensure enduring peace in society.
Even after institutionalizing the federal democratic republic we will have to face the daunting task of building a new Nepal with economic prosperity and social equity in the shortest possible time. Also, we have to assuage the sufferings of tens of thousands of martyr's families and those of missing ones during the revolutionary movement. As the vanguard of the revolution, the poor masses, women, dalits and others naturally look toward us to work for their emancipation and upliftment, and we cannot shirk fromshouldering this responsibility.
We are, therefore, in dire need of financial resources all the while. Against the wild speculation and vicious propaganda about us, we survive in voluntary donation from our well-wishers and supporters. We loathe the very idea of extortion from anybody as alleged by our detractors. We would, hence, humbly appeal to you to make voluntary donation according to your capacity to our authorized representative who may approach you. We assure you, your valuable contribution will be best utilized for the benefit of the poorest of the poor & the oppressed indigenous people and the most needy ones. Please demand a formal receipt against your contribution. If you have any complaints, enquiry or suggestions, you can contact us at the following address.
United Revolutionary People's Council Central Contact Office Buddhanagar, Kathmandu, Nepal
I done the Annapurna Circuit a few weeks ago and only encounters them once again at Chame. I was with an organised group and our leader spoke to them and we never paid anything and went on. We did however see the leaflet that was written out above.
I asked our leader later about the maoists and asked him what he said and he told me that he'd informed them that he'd already paid, but he hadn't. I don't know what else he said but none of us (9) parted with any money in three weeks.
He also told me that they have very little support in Nepal at the moment.
<1> Do they regard this extortion as merely a cost of doing business?
<2> If so, do they inform trekkers in advance and build it into their fees, or do they pass this additional cost onto the trekkers?
<3> Do they gather information before the trek on the whereabouts of the Maoists, and plan alternate trekking routes (if available)?
<4> Has anyone observed any passive or active cooperation between expedition outfitters and the Maoists in regard to extortion of money from trekkers?
On my previous trips when the Maoists were more active - I briefed my team on what might happen - and I didn't expect anyone to put their hands in their pocket. So - yes I guess it is another cost of doing business. You can only gather so much information - if it was widely known where the Maoists were regularly operating then I guess the authorities might chase em off. But even if I (my guide) do suspect where they are we're not going to take an alternative route - if it's the AC Circuit sold then that's what people will get. (Out of season /any avalance activity could have an impact however). And no - there is no prior cooperation with these people - though I would expect to pay something. It's largely down to what my guide thinks on the ground - there is no set policy - and ultimately, it's him and his boys who are at risk next time they come round.
the maoists take our money, our nations in the first world are exploiting the proletariat of all nations, these maoists are fighting for the people, dont let sky or fox news fool you.
pay them as much as you can, put an end to capitalism and fuedalism/capitalism and destroy the bourgesie, no surrender till communism prevails.
Joe, that's not the view I got from the maoist that demanded money from our trekking group in Nepal a few years ago. I would willingly give money to help the people of the country - that's why I chose Doug Scott's Community Action Treks company and spent money locally, but not to fund weapons.
It was made worse by the 2nd meeting with maoists late on in the trip that ignored the fact we had already (reluctantly) 'given' to the cause only to demand more - after a lengthy and heated discussion between our Nepal trek leader and the group we had to have a guard stationed all night on the campsite.
The thing that most stands out though was the plight of the Tibetan refugees I met who had to flee their homeland because of the policies over the border over the last 50 years.
40 years ago, I had my own copy of Maos 'Little Red Book' - now it just reads as a rather sad reminder of just how far we can go wrong in the world when doctrine takes over
Been through 'maoist' territory maybe 15 times-- generally solo and never paid a penny. Found that the 'true' maoists were more than happy just for me to absorb their propaganda and share a beer than some of the racketeering that is worthwhile enough to extort money from groups The most 'Maoist' experience seemed to be around Beni as I timed it as there was a battle with maybe 200 casualties as I walked through a war zone carefully cradelling my San Miguel--very 'MASH'- also between Jiri and Luckla-'Maoist' all the way--- Great hospitality mind This is start of 2000 - mid.
Before the royal massacre it seemed very different(monarchy was respected)- it's not been the same since:
Now as Nepal changes I believe people are making money for no cause and it is probably best to tell a few jokes and pay a few rupees:)
"the maoists take our money, our nations in the first world are exploiting the proletariat of all nations, these maoists are fighting for the people, dont let sky or fox news fool you.
pay them as much as you can, put an end to capitalism and fuedalism/capitalism and destroy the bourgesie, no surrender till communism prevails."
