In this article, Alan talks about doing a new route on Shishapangma in '87 "Alpine-Style". In his OM interview a week or two ago he said, "People who go on about alpine style in the Himalaya, they haven't a clue what they're talking about.. it's a load of dog-shit". Does he know what he's talking about?!
I suppose when you do an interview you are able to explain why it should not be called alpine style. When you are doing a quick press release though it's a different story!?!
Yeah, when I asked him about the style he was using on Kangch, Alan actually said that if I wanted, I could use 'alpine style', because people would know what he meant, but strictly he believes that it's 'lightweight style', so yeah, I think you're right Richard.
Just read the article and he definitely says a 'lightweight, alpine style push'. Stop defending him Richard, this is a definite 'boot in't gob' moment. Hoist by his own petard and all that. I thought it was a bit strange. the interview was all a bit boring and predictable and then he goes off on one. Maybe he's trying to out 'Simpson' Joe Simpson. (Simpson [simp son]vb to verbally attack ones colleagues and peers as in 'to do a Simpson'. Well spotted Ben.
Either it's alpine (new camp each night, carrying all own kit/food, no pre-pos gear) or siege (set up a series of camps, then move up through them and 'launch' for the summit from the top one).
Re-reading the interview, he doesn't say which he uses, just an ambigous 'lightweight' - worthy of a politician! Though I guess by dismissing alpine style he uses siege, though he just just said he doesn't...
Although you could argue AH hasn't done any ascents (subsequent to his and Andy Fanshawe's Menlungtse route) that are even remotely in that league. (Just playing the devil's avocado, or whatever it's called...)
