I'm got the bug, well and truly, after two superb trips. Walked the Troms Border Trail to Abisko last autumn, then a few days around Abisko followed by the Mountains of Narvik. Superb. Previous year, late May/June, Rondane, Tafjord, Jotumheimen - fabulous.
We're wondering about Hardangervidda and Lofoten - preferring the latter. But don't know what the potential is for multi-day backpacking there - the book by Dyer et al mentions a few short trips (1 - 2 days) but we'd rather go on longer ones - say around 4 - 10 days? Is this feasible? Also, without a car, is it horrendously expensive getting around the islands?
What about other areas? The far north, as in Chapter 20 of Connie Roos's book, looks a little tame, tho the idea of being so far north is appealing. And then there's Svalbard - looks really interesting, but can't afford guides and don't much like the idea of lugging rifle and trip wire assembly around... (or becoming polar bear fodder).
Does anyone have any suggestions? And thanks to those who were so helpful in previous posts about the two trips, too - appreciated.
Lofoten is absolutely stunning, but not ideal for multi-day backpacking. Several overnighters should be possible with a bit of creativity. When I went 2 years ago I met a girl in Å who had essentially walked all the way from Harstad. I don't remember it being horrendously expensive to take the buses, but mostly that buses weren't exactly frequent and don't go to many of the nice places.
Hardangervidda - if you're after slightly more drmatic scenery avoid the eastern part which is pretty flat. A possible idea might be to go up Aurlandsdalen towards Finse, round the western side of Hardangerjøkulen and to then amble along the western side of the Vidda towards Haukeliseter. If you've still got time take a bus from Odda to Sundal on the western side of Folgefonna and walk up to Fonnabu which is my all time favourite cabin. Glacier on the one side, sea on the other and the best sunsets ever.
Another idea would be Breheimen, towards Hurrungane and then into southern Jotunheimen. If you did Rondane, Tafjordfjella and Jotunheimen in one go you presumably stayed along the North.
And then there would be places between Trondheim and Bodø like Saltfjell which I don't know much about. The general impression is worth it, but very wild, i.e. need to carry everything with you.
I endorse Icewitch's suggestion of Breheimen - big wild lonely country with big glaciated hills. The Northwest bordering in Jostedalsbre is especially spectacular.
Saltfjell is also great, though more for long backpacks than peak bagging. The area just east of Svartisen is particularly spectacular and Stormdalen is perhaps my favourite place in Norway.
Ane then there's Borgefjell National Park. Wild, wild wild - its only 'amenities' are a few footbridges across the biggest (and otherwise uncrossable) rivers. Not even many paths, just wander.
Matt, Icewitch and Jim - many thanks for quick replies - much appreciated. Keep 'em coming!
Icewitch - regret we didn't do them all in one hit - that would be something! We had a car, which was very useful in allowing us to get to areas less snow-bound. We had a few days in Rondane, then a few days on east and west Tafjord, then Galdhoppigen (saw wolverine as drove down from car park!), then a few days around Gjende, leaving as the ferry service started.
One of the things which really struck us in comparing our two trips was how very popular are the areas visited on the first one, although being late May/early June, we saw few. But the huts were immense, paths wide and clearly very well used, although much less so in the Tafjord area, which we realy liked. Conversely, the second trip (north of the A/C) was so very different. Tiny huts, paths which you could lose, very few people (it was the first three weeks of Sept, so still very good conditions). We're not that keen on big crouds, so will probably look to the quieter areas or times.
But what a country - and so close. Does anyone know if the ferry service from Newcastle to Bergen is likely to re-open?
Rob if you want solitaire walking, IMHO you must once again take the trip up to the north Norway. Jim mentioned Saltfjellet, and this is also my first suggestion. No problem to hike there for two weeks without walking the same track. Also easy access, and the magnificent glacier to top it all. There are huts there if you want to use those, both DNT and Statskog have several. Statskog's huts are btw free of charge, but mostly small and less comfortable than DNT's huts.
Saltfjellet is my "back yard", and last week I went for a four day trip hut-to-hut. Did not see a soul from start to finish.
Then there is the mountains between Narvik and Sulitjelma. This area is without many huts, and you must rely on use of a tent. No place to get food and make contact in the area, and it will be a sensation if you meet more than one or two until you are close to Narvik. I had one tour in the area tree years ago.
Send me a PM if these areas are of interest, then I may give you the specific information you need.
Pete, thanks! Looks really good - sorry it was so much wetter than my two trips. When did you go? Looks like it might have been June - not sure when the strawbs are ripe - would have thought later than that there. But a great diary - what a honemoon!
To get back to one of your initial ideas: how about combining trekking in Saltfjellet or similar with a few days in Lofoten? (Otto, Jim correct me if that's a silly idea; my Northern Norwegian Geography is a bit hazy.)
If you go in late August or early September, the more popular areas should be quieter again. Seeing that you enjoyed your trip in late May/June and didn't seem to mind the snow, early July might be an option for some of the areas that get busy later in summer. Two years ago I did a weekend from Finse to Rembelsdalseter and down into Simadalen the first weekend in July. The weather was gorgeous, but the only people I met were a handful at Rembeldaseter that had taken their sheep up into the mountains. (Apparently the sheep didn't like the snow patches much.) The more mozzy-free option would be September.
Anyway, off to Jotunheimen for a week's ski touring on Sunday. Those big cabins will be full, but people generally disperse as you go out into the mountains. Weather is looking pretty good
Rob, that trip was late June/ early July 2007. We did okay with the weather really, and though it wasn't perfect the only day it was close to getting us down was the trek to Stranddalen, but the thickness of the fog meant we had route-finding taking up far too much attention to worry about the weather! (and it was just dreich rather than puring rain in any case).
