I'M back too! It was harder then I'd expected (due to a series of injuries I had during the last 12 months I did not train as much as I wished I did). There was snow on the Col des Madamettes, but otherwise it was snowfree, and horribly warm - up to 30C (well, much colder in the shade, but somehow we never actually walked in the shade!!!). We used the FFRandonee guide book, the times there were just about the same we used (we were a bit quicker though as a rule). I really liked the trail- we went from Lac d'Aubert (couldn't do the Col because of bad weather) to Superbagneres. Took a taxi to the lake (60 EUR) and down from Superbagneres (40EUR) - I just couldn't imagine walking down in the heat for 2,5 hours!