My son, who 1800 miles into his mega bike ride to the pyramids, has asked me to ask OM folk if there are any problems with bears and wolves in the Croatia to Bulgaria countries. I'm joining him on this section, so I have a vested interest! But judging by lack of replies to other threads on this area, perhaps not many people go there? Certainly it's rather sobering to see the maps of mined areas.
I have enjoyed a number of fantastic backpacking trips in the region you are talking about (e.g. Montenegro, Northern and Central Greece, the Pirin mountains in SW Bulgaria as well as Romania. I have never had any problems with wolves or bears and never heard any stories. In my view, the biggest risk is from the incredibly fierce and aggressive dogs that accompany the sheep flocks. Unless the farmer is around, and has seen you, they will charge and in the worst case scenario - attack. It can be very frightening. If the farmer calls them off there will probably be a lot of laughter, handshakes and backslapping. Awesome.
I'm sure that on a big trip like this you and your son will have many bizarre and wonderous encounters. Have a great time.
Dave Porter
PS. Take a look at my recent post on the TGO Forum "Travel" section and you will see an interesting discussion between myself and Ian Battersby about this sort of thing. The title is something like "Pigs destroy camp in Geece".
I second what dave porter has said: I have walked in all these regions - and all the way down the Carpathian Mountains in Rumania - and never seen either bears or wolves there (although I have heard wolves there). Wolves are, by and large, not dangerous to humans at all, in spite of Russian folk tales - I have encounered them a number of times in Central Asia. They have more to fear from us than we have of them (and I'm afraid I have an unbelievably warm wolfskin hat from Afghanistan to prove it).
I've never heard of anyone having problems with European bears (unlike American ones).
Unfortunately I second Dave also on the subject of dogs. They're the one beast I fear. I must admit I haven't been bitten but I have had a number of terrifying encounters, and mean to take with me the next time a water-pistol containing a solution of tabasco. Have never tried this but feel it might work.
Most important - in the Carpathians and in the Rhodope mountains in Bulgaria, be very wary, especially after dark, of exceptionally beautiful young women with pallid skin and blood-red lips - particularly if they have unusually well-developed canine teeth. You may find that they're more interested in your son than in you, but I should make sure that you each keep handy a small head of garlic and a featherweight titanium crucifix (obtainable for a few shillings from any reputable outdoor ecclesiastical expedition chandlers).
Dave and Kish, Thanks for that - it does sound a good, interesting area - and one that's fascinated me for while. I actually got home two weeks ago, but my son is still pedalling, somewhere on the Turkey/Syria border now. I rode with him from Croatia to Bulgaria, via Monte Negro, Albania, Kosovo & Macedonia. Brilliant trip, not without its tense moments! No sign - nor time to see - wolves or bears, but I agree, the dogs can be a pain. One large specimen came and p'd on our bikes one morning, and another time, we were following a small truck that had just pulled out in front of us. Two dogs went wild for the truck's off-side front wheel, while we managed to tuck in between truck and kerb and escaped un-noticed. Not sure if the trucker saw what we were doing, but he did keep out enough to give us space. And Kish - we did see a few beautiful young ladies, but their attention certainly wasn't on me, nor, I think, my son. My neck remains unscarred... It could have something to do with the lack of washing facilities at times? We camped wild most times, but the streams, if we found one, were not nice. Far too much trash in most of those countries, sadly - plastic bags, bottles and dead dogs abound. Rob
I got stuck at the turkey/syria border for several days in 1968. They wouldn't allow me in because Britain had supported Israel in the '67 war. I said (I was a schoolboy at the time) that, being from Belfast, I was like a Palestinian in occupied territory.
The border guards fed me and housed me for days like a young prince (well, as much as possible on the turkish/syrian frontier in '68) but finally word was telegraphed back from Damascus that I wasn't allowed in.
Two results have been that
Ever since I've travelled on an Irish passport (even though I'm a Belfast Prod.... (estant)).
I had to hitch back to Ankara, get a new visa, & went to Iran & Afghanistan, which means that I now speak Farsi & Dari, but no arabic (which I'd wanted to learn).
I've been going back and forth for a long time. It's the most wonderful (and beautiful) place on earth.
(I'm editing this to agree that this is just a subjective view, from someone who has never been to lots of places, including, say, Weston-super-Mare)
Find yourself in a village and you will not be allowed outside at lunchtime. Someone will take you in and feed you magnificently (wish it was like that in Brixton, where I'm writing).
As with most supposedly dangerous places - main danger - road accidents!
Kish - and anyone else heading to Syria. My son and his mate got caught in a serious fire-fight between two cars on a dual carriageway on Wed. Car whizzed past them , bullets from a pursuing car whizzed past son's head, shooting out the tyres of the car in front, which screeched to a halt in front of the boys. From this, 4 men got out and shot back with AK47s on full auto past son at the pursuing car. The boys were stuck in the middle, used as a human shield. They escaped but son crashed on a rock off the road and damaged his back and a few other bits. Managed to get to a house but the door was slammed on him, so he hid on a roof. Mate found him later, ambulanced to hospital, much pain and strain but alive. Mate fetched bike later from battle area, bike OK, the ground thick with cartridge cases.
FFS! Bears and wolves are small beer, I think. But thank heavens neither was injured. Makes one realise that GB is not so bad after all!
The only wolves I found to beware of in Bulgaria were the Bulgarian Mafia and the Zigoiner (local gypsies). All the friendly locals soon got round to telling me warnings about them. Just be careful with strangers if you are not totally happy or sense 'something' about them. Most Bulgarians are really, really friendly and a knowledge of German went a long way with the ones who didn't speak English. Even French was useful at times as a Lingua Franca.
Crossing the border between Bulgaria and Turkey was a protracted and rather strange experience....from the above I guess that Turkey has border probs with a few of her neighbours.
Thanks, Ninja. It's pretty horrific, and I can hear a voice on the phone saying, dad - I'm ok but..., or his mate ringing me... It is seriously, seriously scarey. He was in Syria when this happened and now, assuming able to cycle (and I'm not sure, the injuries seem to be stiffening up), wants to get the hell out of it ASAP. I had 6 days in Bulgaria, the first with them, then we split as they headed for Istanbul, me to Rila, then back to Sofia. Potential prob in Sofia with pickpockets - 2 lads were very keen to get very close to my bike, very subtly. I stared at them, zipped up any pockets not already closed, then moved away. But otherwise, a nice country, with friendly people. The Hostel Mostel in Sofia was superb, ever so helpful.
No - Syria - see above - assuming you mean the firefight, not the pickpockets! I think he's OK, but pretty shaken, and this unsurprisingly set in some time after the event. I suspect that any loud bangs/shots in the next few months will make him jump a bit. Good story to have survived to tell though!
Many thanks to those who have replied to this, and taken an interest in my son's ride. He made it to the pyramids about three days ago, the bike is now boxed and he returns on 28 Dec after about 4,500 miles. His back is still in a bad way, three weeks after the event, and I think still pretty shaken (as am I!). If anyone is interested, perhaps for their own travels, here's a link to his blog:
