Walking and Climbing

I've never cut steps, never seen anyone cut steps, never seen evidence of steps having been cut.

but who am I to argue with the guys at www.peakmountaineering.com ?

I have.....

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but not often.

I might do it if I hadn't taken crampons (e.g. on a ski tour), or if it was a very short section, with minimal risk, that didn't really merit the faff of fitting crampons.

He is a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society (FRGS), Accredited Practitioner of the Institute of Outdoor Learning (APIOL), qualified teacher, holder of the Certificate in Off-Site Safety Management and, of course, a qualified first aider.

Yup. Obviously a complete charlatan

Didn't I mention my biathlon qualification Kate?

No problem Sean.  I sussed that.

I do hope the replies keep coming though.  I love using these smileys!

Unfortunately I need the next level of archery qualification before I can offer that Kate.  We should have that option on the site soon.

Maybe I'll write a skills article about it for OM.  That should prompt a few interesting replies.

Now, which smiley do I want? Ah yes.......  That's perfect! 

Okay, ice axe length.

"Old school thinking always said that your axe should be two inches off the floor when you held the head in your hand and stood with your arm down by your side.  The trouble with this is that it makes your axe hard to use for anything other than as a walking stick."

I disagree. This "old school thinking" is right for hillwalking and general mountaineering. I use a 70cm axe and have done for years and can use it for ice axe braking and cutting steps (I have occasionally done so!).  On descents it's much better than a short axe as you can plunge it into the snow ahead of you. I've tried short axes and I feel insecure using them and find self-arrest more awkward.

I've no objection to people using short axes if they prefer them. But I do object to misinformation about longer axes.

As for this being old school here's a quote from "The Mountaineering Handbook: Modern Tools and Techniques That Will Take You To The Top"  by Craig Connally, published 2005:

"I advise going slightly longer than the recommended length, perhaps as long as the pick touching boot sole level ..... plan on at least 70cm length for most mountaineers and 75cm or longer for tall ones".

The author argues that short axes make falls more likely during descent and that long axes  are just as good or possibly better for self-arrest and improve self-belays too.

Hi Chris,

I hoped my article was expressing my opinion rather than misinforming - but my sincere apologies if you felt otherwise.  My view remains that an axe of about 55cm is the optimum length for general mountaineering...

In descent on steeper slopes it should be ready to perform a self belay by being held by the axe head in the uphill hand.  If the axe is longer it is harder to hold it by the head and I find this makes it harder to bring into a self arrest position.

A shorter axe comes more easily into arrest position because when the adze is placed by the hollow of the clavicle the spike is at a good point to be gripped and covered by the other hand.  

A shorter axe is easier to store either down the side comprehension straps of the pack or tucked down between the shoulder straps for times when it might be needed quickly. 

Finally, a shorter axe is likely to be a bit lighter so the user can either carry a lighter axe or have that extra weight in the head to allow easier step cutting and added penetration on hard snow and ice. 

So that leads to my opinion on ice axe head weight