Has anybody been and have suggestions? There have been a couple of threads on this in the past but not much info. I'll be going there in November and wish to climb to the top (My better half - well she will probably get the teleferique). I assume perimits are still needed, but is it worth staying at the refuge beforehand and then climbing the last bit early?
I'm sure Canaries expert Paddy would be better on this, but I did this last November and had a great time. I didn't have a permit and just winged it by trotting up to the refuge in the afternoon. Luckily I was early as the guardian said he only had 2 free spaces (the rest being block-booked by the local university). This was a good way to do it. I made sure I was first up to the top in the morning for the sun-rise and royally froze my bits off whilst waiting an hour and a half (belay jacket recommended, I only had a Primaloft gilet).The best bit though wasn't the peak itself, but carrying on to the Pico Viejo which remained totally empty. I hung around thereabouts and on other empty trails in the national park and they were fantastic. There is other great trekking on Tenerife too.
Sorry I didn't see this when it was posted in August, but I was in Iceland.
Anyway... as Jasper says... that's not a bad way to do it!
Last time I was on the mountain was January this year. I climbed Pico Viejo first and only met two other walkers, and both of them turned back. I continued onto El Teide on my own, reaching the summit just as it got dark. For the record... no-one checks permits at night-time and I didn't have one anyway! I would have bivvied on top, but it was bitterly cold, so I dropped down to the refuge. There were only a few people there and of course no-one expected anyone to turn up hours after it got dark. First thing in the morning, I was back on the summit in time for sunrise. Note that the sun does absolutely nothing to warm up the place until at least an hour after it has risen, and if you don't have a permit, you have to be off the top straight after sunrise, before the telepherique kicks into action and the first visitors of the day arrive.
Apart from the telepherique, which is cheating, there are only two ways onto the mountain... the 'normal' route via Montana Blanca and the very quiet route via Pico Viejo. Both of these routes have two or three alternative starting points, so there are actually a lot of options for getting on and off the mountain. The only limitations are on the higher slopes, where there are only two possible paths.
If you want to reach the summit during the daytime, either because of logistics or because you want it to be warmer on top, then you need a permit. You either have to go to Santa Cruz for it, or you can apply online. Either way, you need your passport or a national ID card. You must take your permit AND passport to the top, within an hour of the time you agree to be on the summit, otherwise you'll get booted off!
As for Costa Adeje, mentioned by Rod, there are lots of resorts on that side of Tenerife and there's also a hugely popular walking route into the Barranco del Infierno. If you're tempted by this, then you now have to apply in advance for a permit. A gate has been installed across the entrance to the barranco and there are people on duty in a kiosk. The road up to the kiosk is punishingly steep and there are hordes of people turning up every day without permits, and they all get turned away. Permits require you to state your name, nationality, hotel and room number. No idea what happens if you're wild camping!
Question for you Paddy, seeing as you're here: was thinking of abandoning the baby for a quick GR 131 La Palma traverse this January including wild camps (which I know are illegal, but I do a very discreet bivi/tarp thing). How cold up top (e.g. Roque de Muchachos) do you think? And how much water-carrying capacity should I provide? Any practical wild camping advice much appreciated.
Jasper - My next published book covers La Palma and is fully up-to-date with the GR131. Unfortunately it won't be out until January, but the route still gets a good description in my old out-of-print Canary Islands - West guidebook.
First... abandoning babies is far more illegal than wild camping... but brushing that little matter aside...
The climb from sea level to the top of the Roque de los Muchachos is an absolute killer. It's 2400m with barely a hint of any downhill. It starts very steep, stays steep, and occasionally gets a bit steeper. When you finally pop out of the forest and the mountain crest eventually eases, you'll notice that you're getting closer and closer to the observatories clustered around the summit. If you can see them, then they can see you, and if you shine your powerful torches around, you could be interfering with star-gazing. The GR131 is a really peculiar route in this respect, since there's nowhere you can stay on top, and cars aren't allowed to pick you up between dusk and dawn, again because of light pollution. In other words, you are forced to bivvy or wild camp. The summit car park has a thing that looks like a big cairn, but it's actually full of water. Trouble is, you can't rely on there being water in it, so if you don't carry ALL your water up there, it might be empty, and then you will suffer. If there IS water there, then it's a bonus. For what it's worth, I got my little tent huddled out of sight in a great little pitch that seems very popular with illegal wild campers, in the lee of the summit rock of Roque Chico. As for how cold it can be in November... there MIGHT be snow and ice... or there might not... but it WILL be cold and you'll need to wrap up warm.
So... assuming you survive the first day, the highest part of the route is actually quite a pleasant romp along a succession of rocky peaks, getting tougher as you start to descend. There is a very basic refuge at Punta de los Roques. It looks great from the outside and is in a stunning location, but it has precious little in the way of facilities and the only water available is what runs off the roof and into a barrel. Assume that the barrel will be empty, otherwise you'll find yourself walking so far to get water, that you certainly won't be spending the night there afterwards! If you keep walking, then you reach a dirt road in laurisilva forest and you should be able to get water from a tap at that point. If that's dry, then follow the dirt road to the campsite at Refugio del Pilar, and you're guaranteed water at that point. By the way, that's your ONLY guarantee so far! You're supposed to apply for permission to camp before you arrive, but let's face it, no-one is going to send you packing if you haven't, because there's nothing else for miles and there's no bus service along the road.
The last day can be split if you like. First, an excellent romp over a succession of volcanic peaks, and a descent to the village of Fuencaliente. (There is no water on the crest, except for a drip-feed in the most unlikely place, in a cave in the crater of Volcan Martin, where you'd least expect to find ANY water!) You can spend a night at Fuencaliente, or find digs and dump all your kit, and continue all the way to the southernmost point of the island. If you do this, make sure you have the current bus timetable. Time your arrival right at the lighthouse, and you can get a bus straight back up to the village. Time it wrong, and you'll either have to camp in volcanic ash, or climb 600m back up to the village.
Hope that helps. More likely... it will put you off!
Thanks Paddy, that's really excellent detail: just what I need. Unfortunately, it hasn't put me off yet, though I'm sure that if I find myself doing it, and really thirsty, I'll wish it had! You don't think it'll be particularly cold then for sleeping high? (As in, a sleeping bag rated to around 5 degrees and a bit of cosy camp wear. I used to sleep out in this in the central Sahara in January, at about 800m altitude so thought - given the similar latitude - that this might do ...)
La Palma might be on the same latitude as the Sahara Desert, but the altitude counts for a lot. The highest part of the island gets really cold at night. The snowy picture on my website (click it to enlarge it) appears to show fluffy white snow, but repeated freeze-thaw action had made it rock-hard and extremely slippery. One particular bit of that trail... maybe no more than 50m or so... probably ranks as the most awkward winter move I've ever attempted. No-one ever thinks they'll need an ice axe and crampons in the Canary Islands, and of course most of the time you don't, but when you DO, you wish you had them.
A couple of winters ago the road to El Teide was closed because of snow, but I managed to get up there the following day when EVERYTHING was covered in snow. I simply couldn't believe how many people on Tenerife possessed skis, snowboards and sledges! It was like watching the Winter Olympics up there!
Hmmm, sounds pretty frigid! I'm a glutton for punishment as the pictures make me even keener. Good to see the new guidebook has a Jan 2011 publishing date: just hope I'll be in time for it. Maybe Cicerone will make it downloadable before it actually hits the press. Hope so. Thanks Paddy, advice much appreciated!
I found the Barranco del Infierno a bit rubbish. It was an OK enough walk but the waterfall wasn't as good as what was promised in the book. We did have a nice chat with the guide stood at the base of it though, in which he agreed that the English Lake District is far nicer.
I've been to La Palma a few times and had really mixed weather in our winter (Xmas or Feb school holidays). Twice the airport was closed due to high winds and I was thankful I had arrived at TFS or TFN as the ferries weren't affected.
I walked the GR131 starting from the lighthouse at Fuencaliente heading ACW. A bit like Tenerife, there are a few campsites around the island that you can reserve. There is a camping area just north of Fuencaliente village next to the football pitch (nobody checked the permit). There is water, but little else there. At Refugio del Pilar there is a warden who will/might check your permit. There is water here. At Refugio Punta del Roques there is an open water collection point which has had water both times I've been there. This is an amazing spot and I woke on Xmas day to snow two years ago - fantastic! The walk from here along the rim is superb. At the visitor centre there is a large water container that is filled by truck. I collected water here and continued to Somada Alta to camp on the rim (there weren't many flat spots). There was no water until I arrived at the Mirador del Time.
The NW of the island is good for a wander and you can pick up the GR130 with a few variants from Puntagorda to Barlovento. There are campgrounds and cabins at both of these privately run places in great locations. In addition, there is a camping place at San Antonio near the church. You need to reserve this in advance. There are picnic tables and the guardian checks your permit and turns the light on.
Thanks for the great info but it was a bit late as I never checked this site after the end of october so I winged it when I was there. For anybody else do not bother going to Santa Cruz because you'll have to go on line in their office to book. Tenerife is a great place for hiking and we're thinking of going back again next year.
The very next thing to be cleared off my desk is the manuscript for a new guidebook to Tenerife. It will contain three hefty ascents of El Teide, and if anyone pooh-poohs those as being too easy... then I'm including a really tough "Three Peaks" route as well.
And yes... there will be a full explanation about how to obtain (or avoid) a permit for getting to the top of El Teide.
No doubt in a year's time I'll be offering a copy as a free draw. In the meantime you can still enter for...
.JPG)
