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Hinkes' Choy Oyo summit disputed
 
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Hinkes' Choy Oyo summit disputed
Is it 1 to go or 2?
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Hinkes Summits Dhaulagiri
Just one 8,000er to go for Brit' Alan Hinkes as he succeeds on the world's seventh highest peak despite conditions he describes as 'scary'. The record books beckon :-)

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DaveMycroft
19/05/04 19:16
Mounteverest.net are disputing Alan Hinkes' attempt to become the first Brit to climb the 14 8000 metre peaks. In an article that also reprints an accusation of him refusing to help a badly injured climber, but videoing him bleeding, the summiting of Cho Oyo is disputed.

"News reports also began to surface this morning that said Alan's Challenge 8000 project now only has one more 8,000er to go, saying Dhaulagiri was his lucky 13. In fact Dhauli was his 12th; he was not on the highest point of Cho Oyu and therefore it does not count" claims www.mounteverest.net/story/AlanHinkesreappears-bagshis12thMay192004.shtml

Everestnews at www.everestnews2004.com/everestnews3/alanhinkes2004dis3.htm also carries the news of Alan's success on Dhaulagiri, but lists it as his 13th - as does Beghaus and Alan Hinkes himself..

Is there any "official" list anywhere? Given local traditions on certain mountain tops like Kangchejunka, where it is sacriligous to stand on the exact highest point, how close do you have to be to the top for it to class as a summit?

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DaveMycroft
19/05/04 19:17
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Marcus Crompton
19/05/04 19:31
 Rookie 3634 forum posts 444 photos 18 reviews 1 bookmark
Summits are the highest points of mountains in my book. Alan has said that he will only be 3 feet below the "actual" summit of Kangchenjunga so his head will be above the summit!

If he says he's summitted Cho Oyu I believe him - the writer of the (unattributed) piece on mountereverest.net seems to be carrying a few issues, to say the least!
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DaveMycroft
19/05/04 19:41
My feelings exactly Marcus. The whole tone of the article seems anti Alan. This is the only place I've ever heard any dispute over Cho Oyo, and it's not as if it's a recent climb or Alan hasn't publicised his attempt at all 14.
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Marcus Crompton
19/05/04 23:27
 Rookie 3634 forum posts 444 photos 18 reviews 1 bookmark
Let's hope it's nothing more than an isolated bit of jealous sniping - mountaineering attracts far too much of that sort of behaviour as it is.

I can't claim to be a mountaineer, or even much of a summit bagger (apparently I've never been to the top of Tryfan!, allegedly), but if (when) Alan completes all the 8000'ers I think it will be a magnificent personal achievement, and one I would love to share in vicariously on his money-spinning lecture tour...
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Chris Lines
20/05/04 09:43
 Rookie 21 forum posts
Hi All,

Chris from Berghaus here.

I'm sure Alan will defend his record robustly if called upon to (it's nice of mounteverest.net to attack him when he's not able to respond isn't it?), but I know that he will not believe he actually has anything to defend.

I spoke to Alan yesterday, just after he'd got back to base camp. He was pretty knackered, but also delighted. Funnily enough, he told me that he helped out a couple of guys from an Argenitinian expedition that was also on Dhaulagiri. They were returning from the summit and experiencing some sort of difficulty on the descent and Alan delayed his push for the top a little to assist.

He said to me that they didn't need much help, but nevertheless he did stop for a time and that could have jeopardised his chance of reaching the top. Alan is a driven individual, but in my experience he's no liar.

For what it's worth, everyone at Berghaus is "reet chuffed" for him and we'll be giving him a great welcome when he gets back here.
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DaveMycroft
20/05/04 10:08
Chris,

Thanks very much for the news on Alan - it'snot often OM get an exclusive :)

When I noticed the article on mounteverest.net I felt it was so offensive it just needed highlighting. As you mention it was done at a time when Alan couldn't defend himself, against a nameless accuser. It's great to see Berghaus leap to his side in such circumstances.

Like you I'm sure I speak for all OM users in feeling equally "chuffed" for Alan, and wish we could join you in welcoming hime back. Given an opportunity I'm sure we'd all want to wish him all the luck in the world on the last leg of Challenge 8000. He's an inspiration to many of us and I couldn't think of a better person to be the first Brit to do the 14 peaks.

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Chris Lines
20/05/04 10:18
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A big hear hear on your last point Dave!
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Orange Alex
20/05/04 13:11
 Rookie 8922 forum posts 9 articles 14 reviews
Yeah, congrats to Al.

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Darren Christie
20/05/04 13:51
 Rookie 5503 forum posts 8 photos 18 articles 2 reviews
Like what Dave said so well
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Ben Hammond
20/05/04 14:21
 Rookie 408 forum posts
Well done to Alan, definite hatchet job on everestnews,I'm sure he will deal with such stories in his usual straight forward Yorkshire manner when he gets back.
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Ben Hammond
20/05/04 14:22
 Rookie 408 forum posts
sorry, mounteverest.net, NOT everest news
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Drew
20/05/04 15:52
 Rookie 2823 forum posts 44 reviews
Well said Dave.

I believe him. What's the point in lying? He's failed on several mountains several times, and admitted it. Why should Cho Oyu be any different? If he says he did it... it's good enough for me. After all... he's a Yorkeshireman!
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Ninja Marmot
20/05/04 16:10
 Rookie 33592 forum posts 71 photos 3 articles 18 reviews
Aye, we don't lie. Well done Al.
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Kruger
20/05/04 16:21
 Rookie 200 forum posts 9 photos
When you see Alan's lectures or tapes he shows you the good and the bad even his mistakes on his mountain climbs, these people should get off his back or say it to his face.
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Drew
20/05/04 16:38
 Rookie 2823 forum posts 44 reviews
Aye laddie
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philip newing
20/05/04 22:49
 Rookie 1091 forum posts
This is the first I've heard of this disputed Cho Oyo summit. Who is disputing it and what are the grounds for it? Does anyone have the story of what is supposed to have happened.
Its also the first I've heard of this incident with the fallen climber. The article only gives one point of view - that of the climber - but either he is lying through his teeth or its probably true.
To be honest having read quite a bit of what Alan has said regarding life and death situations in these places it sounds about right although I'm sure he would robustly defend his actions.
This one could run and run.
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Drew
21/05/04 14:16
 Rookie 2823 forum posts 44 reviews
To be honest I think that the general public like, and believe Alan. If he says he got to the top, then it's enough for most people.

Incidentally is Cho Oyu one of these sacred mountains which climber refuse to set foot on the top, but get to about 100 metres away. There's a pciture in Himalayan Climber of Doug Scott and some others a short way down the easy looking slope, not quite on top of... possibly Kanchengjunga?

And there's a beautiful looking mountain... which I've read no mountaineer has climbed it, as it's the most sacred mountain to the Nepalese (or Tibetans)... so they refuse to blaspheme it with their presence.
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DaveMycroft
21/05/04 14:21
Cho Oyo has a more "dome like" top than the rest of the 8000 metre peaks.

Kangchenjunka is certainly classed as a sacred mountain, and when Scott, Tasker and Boardman summited they wouldn't stand on the top - this may be the same pic you're looking at Drew.

Not sure which mountain you mean as there seem to be so many that are sacred to one party or the other
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Drew
21/05/04 14:35
 Rookie 2823 forum posts 44 reviews
That's the photo yep.

The really sacred mountain... well it just looks the business. It's got one really huge face which is... best described as a similar shape to a Cumulus cloud. Flat base, steeply rising arete's, and it rounds it's way back to horizontal from both sides. You can see loads of the rock... with what seem to be flutings, which fill with snow. Seriously... you would know it if you've seen it.

It's such a beautiful looking thing. It might even be sacred to Nepalese, Tibetans, and some other group of people. It really does look the part.
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