Tent, why did you not opt for a Wildcountry Zephyros 1? you'd not have had the same problems as having looked at a Jack wolfskin Gossamer it's just a glorified bivi with limitations that you have to accept wheras the zephyros is a proper tent- bit bigger too.
Pack. Best to buy a fixed lengh pack, no adustable bits to faff around with other than the straps, as for shape, as long as it's not got one of those rather pointless frames to create an airspace between the back and the bag they are shaped to be easy to pack.
Sleeping bag, as long as it's not down, why worry about a bit of condensation? as for string, it's there so you can open and close the zip when wearing gloves. oh, my sleeping bag requires you to pull it over the shoulders to get out as it has no zip.
Osprey sacks can be a fiddly mess I think. Things like the sprung back that eats into useable pack volume, decreases stability and generally I don't think works in most cases. If you don't like that brand try Crux AK40, 47X, 57 or any other sack in their range. Simple sacks that work very well (without the yellow string you hate).
BTW I really didn't get your yellow string reference as most baler twine here is that orange colour or even blue but I've not seem baler twine in yellow. Unless you mean paracord or some other cord type. Still, I think its good to modify (called modding or mod) your gear to your needs. Things like cutting off and sealing excess straps or cutting off any extra anything that is not needed. Too much drawstring on your sack opening then cut it off, Pockets don't suit and you don't want them? Cut them off. However if your sack is broken then check out your retailer's returns policy as its not right if something breaks on first outing. If it turns out that it is something you did wrong then they will tell you if you return it. They usually send it to the manufacturer or their local nominated repairer to fix ths issue under warranty or if not economic to repair they'll replace. Some makes are large enough to just replace as standard. In fact its costed into the price of their sacks for a certain amount of replacing of faulty goods in bigger brands that is.
As for spats between you and regulars...carry on its fun for spectators!!
<Off to get my popcorn for the next round (I hope there is one and I've not missed it coming in late to the thread)>
Get a bigger internal space tent not a glorified bivvy/tent hybrid. I used one once when my tent was back with manufacturer due to a fault from new. The retailer knew I had a trip coming up without a tent so lent me a JW gossamer for the trip free of charge. Cost £80 back then and he sold them off for about £40-50. It sheltered me, my boots, drybag containing my phone and money and precious little else. I had to store my gear in some other person's porch or under there rucksack cover in the open when it was very wet (can't remember which). I had a dry night inside despite the continuous rain. Wasn't too bad but I was expecting worse as its little more than a hooped bivvy bag. Worth all of the £40 you can get them for, well part of it.
Osprey sacks can be a fiddly mess I think. Things like the sprung back that eats into useable pack volume, decreases stability and generally I don't think works in most cases.
Not at all, in my experience.
I have 3 Osprey packs (2 Exos and 1 Atmos) and they are no more complex to use than any other modern pack. I'm sure that things like compression straps and adjustable shoulder straps are not beyond the wit of the average user. Any excess webbing can be cut off if it really bugs you.
Sprung backs work extremely well at keeping your back cool and dry and not just on Osprey packs. I have a Gregory Z55 and the ventilated back works fine. There is a very small loss of stability (immaterial for a walking sack) on the Exos 56 compared to a conventional pack but it is more than outweighed by the benefit of the sprung back. Ditto the small amount of extra care involved in packing.
Frankly, I've no idea what the OP is talking about, viz:
Osprey look good in the shop and talk the talk on the web but when it comes to doing the job you spend over £100 and still need Yellow String to hold the spring in place (is that a fish?) on the frame. Without this it falls out when you pack your kit.
Presumbly he's referring to the tensioner in the back system and no, it doesn't fall out when I pack my kit nor have I ever heard of it doing so for any other user. What is the OP packing - Billy Goats Gruff?
> make the bag a sack with pop studs or Velcro from about hip height and we will not need the string and there will be no zip to fight with in the night when you need the loo.
I've never had to fight to get out of a zipped sleeping bag. Maybe you need more practice.
As for velcro closures, they're a pain, as the snag on everything. that's why a decent bag that has a velcro patch at the top to keep the zip done up will usually have a patch of male and female velcro on the tab, so it can be 'closed' when not needed, thus preventing it snagging clothing.
Poppers or any other intermittent closure are unpopular on insulated items (barring casual use), because they don't form a decent seal to the movement of air. And, since you're generally trying to trap warm air to maintain the insulation, that's a bit of a design downside for a 'proper' sleeping bag.
I confess that I cannot decipher your other two problems from the descriptions you've given, so I can't offer any suggestions.
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