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Gear

Montane Flux & Prism 2
 
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Montane Flux & Prism 2
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Stephen
24/08/11 19:20
 Rookie 4129 forum posts 18 classifieds

Hi Dave,

I have both the Prism 2 and the flux if you had any questions.

Cheers,

Stephen

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JimboJames1972
25/08/11 11:08
 Rookie 324 forum posts 9 photos 1 review

I had a Prism 2 last year.

Overall, I found it quite useful (it was often slung on or packed in backpacks 'just in case') but was not completely happy with the fit.  I had the 'Large' size which was just about right if I only wanted a base layer under it but it was realy too snug for much more.  The arms and collar/hood were ok (hood could have been a little larger and a more protective peak would have been nice too) but the body was WAY too short for what I wanted.  On me (5'10") it really only just covered my waist with no real backside coverage.

Of course, if you're a slimmer build and want a more 'active' cut jacket then this might be your thing.

I was impressed with the warmth and weather proofing though.  Even though not meant to be 100% waterproof I found it shedded moderate rain and sleet well - standing about, coaching rugby in the best of British horizontal rain/sleet anr a coupe of hours and I was still plenty warm and dry enough.

Since then though I have gone to the PHD Kappa.  Ok, so a fair bit more expensive but the fit is exactly right for me, it is warmer and more weatherproof too.

James

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Nigel Healy
27/08/11 07:18
 Rookie 1899 forum posts 2 photos 12 reviews

Jimbo - I'm same height as you and my Prism needs a replacement, I was waiting til I pass thru UK shortly to try on Prism 2 and the Flux and a few other items before I decide, I don't need anything til October earliest so luxury of patience. One thing I like abou the Prism is it cover me all over including over backside and you're confirming what I see elsewhere the Prism2 is short?

I'm a medium in practically everything so would a PHD Kappa in medium be right? Surprised you need a large? 

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JimboJames1972
27/08/11 15:20
 Rookie 324 forum posts 9 photos 1 review

Nigel,

I can't directly compare the Prism with the Prism 2 since I have never had the first version.

On me, and for what I wanted, the Prism 2 was a little short.  This seems to be trend these days - manufacturers going for shorter, more 'active' cuts.  Perhaps it saves on materials...?

Saying that though, the Prism 2 was useful enough, especially if I wanted something reasonably warm and weatherproof to use in temperate times.  However, I found it worked best when I could get away with wearing it as a sole outer layer in 'moderate' conditions.  Ie, if it really chucked it down or got too cold the jacket by itself was not enough - insulation was only really good enough to around freezing and all the sewn-through stitching lines would let rain through eventually.  Throwing a shell over it just got me sweaty and there was not enough room under it for more layers.

On the other hand, I have found the Kappa more useful.  I find the insualtion better for when I need it in the cold, the large fit allows me to use this OVER other layers (either a fleece or two when it's well below freezing or chucked on over my shell at rest stops) and the HS2 outer fabric is the most waterproof and breathable one I have ever come across.

In an ideal world (when I eventually win the lottery!) I would have another Kappa in a Medium to use just over base layers.  I can dream...

James

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Nigel Healy
27/08/11 16:58
 Rookie 1899 forum posts 2 photos 12 reviews

Well yes the Prism is ok down to about freezing, at freezing have to be moving fast, vary the baselayer to suit your sensitivity and then overlayer with either synth gilet or down to get a little below freezing, then move to down jacket for well below. That all works when you are at home and just packing for a known day. The issue is packing for multi-day conditions varying from above to below freezing, that's an awkward range. Upper end of that range your Prism about right but all the packed layers to get to the lower end of that range is more total volume than the extra volume of the Kappa vs Prism, if that makes sense.

Flux seems to be more insulation which means carrying less but then too warm on the warmer days.

An all-over insulator jacket is better insulation/weight than a short-torso or short-sleeve or hoodless jacket.

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Martin Carpenter
16/09/11 18:53

Just to make this more confusing the new batch of Prisms for this Autumn (in a couple of places) seem to me to have an arm length much closer to the flux than they did previously.

And iirc a swing tag saying <440g, which is slightly up on the previous weights thus suggesting maybe it is a real difference in the cut. Or of course I could be rather confused but its a big difference (in medium on me from half way to my elbow when on, to sort of OK.).

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Mike fae Dundee
16/09/11 19:08

Have you tried the Rab Generator Alpine, Martin?

I've got long arms, and the sleeves almost cover my hands.

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Martin Carpenter
16/09/11 21:17

Ah well, there's long and longgggg

Mine in medium (1/2 a size up maybe) is actually a little short of my wrists with a little arm lift to boot. Since thats hardly fatal in an insulating jacket, and a lot better than many alternatives!, I've actually got one.

I'd probably rather a xenon or something, but the arms on that one really are sarcastic on me.

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Mike fae Dundee
16/09/11 21:30
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lfenbo
23/11/11 16:46
 Rookie 1019 forum posts 1 photo
anyone got anything further to add to this thread??,  im torn now between the montane flux and the new torres core/sleeve combo.....anyone out there got experience of using the latter?  cheers guys in advance .
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Nigel Healy
23/11/11 17:21
 Rookie 1899 forum posts 2 photos 12 reviews

I tried the Torres Core in a store in September, I didn't like it, when you reach arms out they bind in the forearms the shoulders not the "articulated" type. I have the sleeves and they don't bind but very thick Popeye type, 133g fill, most jackets are like 100g arms at most, I got to complement the Torres gilet and that pairing works out ok but obviously the gilet is 100g file and no hood but a high collarso not as warm as the Core.

I'm more leaning towards the Rab Xenon but I got the tattoo on my forehead to never buy til I try. The Torres trousers will only fit a beer-belly with no muscle in their thighs.

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Edited: 23/11/11 17:22
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lfenbo
23/11/11 17:58
 Rookie 1019 forum posts 1 photo
thanks nigel, i tried the core on today but they only had xlarge so at there suggestion i tried a torres smock large as they said they are similar fit, tried sleeves also it felt bit funny but i thought it wold work ok,so its either core large with sleeves large, or flux.sometimes think it would be better if there wasnt so much choice  didnt try the  torres trousers but did try the valez light ones finding them too short in leg length(a regular problem according to lad in shop.
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Nigel Healy
23/11/11 18:37
 Rookie 1899 forum posts 2 photos 12 reviews
  1. winter belay, go for a simple low-weight very warm hooded jacket/smock.
  2. other 3 seasons belay, go for gilet, lightest way to get warm quick
  3. sleeves are the cheapest way to get to a belay jacket if you already bought the gilet and are about 2L packed volume to fit in a side-pocket of pack for quick adding/remove without stopping.

If you've not bought anything so far then just buy a smock/hooded jacket, most insulation for weight/cost. You're doing right to try for fit, logic common-sense simply doesn't apply predicting fit.

Winter walking pants, Cascadas, come in different leg lengths.

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lfenbo
23/11/11 19:19
 Rookie 1019 forum posts 1 photo
thanks again nigel,  not bought owt yet , deals on the table are.......... torres core plus sleeves £126 brand new not sure if p&p included in that. montane flux £100.80p inclding postage.  cascadas not option for me i already have the salopettes for winter  (£15 from oxfam shop in windermere )
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Nigel Healy
23/11/11 19:47
 Rookie 1899 forum posts 2 photos 12 reviews

There's not just the price difference, also different weights and insulation.

Torres core and sleeves is 133g fill all over, the Flux is 100g in torso but a little more around the pockets (60g front/behind so 120g total) and 60g in arms, so you're talking the Torres is double the arm insulation and a bit more all over the torso. I don't know if anyone has measured the CLO/TOG of these garments but I'd reckon on the Paramo being a bit warmer weight for weight, is more puffed-out more loft type than the Primaloft Eco. 

So Torres core is 514g plus Torres sleeves 226g for total of 740g vs the Flux 550g. That's probably fairlly representing the difference insulation. Oh what a surpise, the warmer item is heavier and more expensive.  Torres jacket is same 133g all over as the core+sleeves but doesn't have the sleeves joke so a little lighter at 667g, and the Torres smock is 775g but has a more bombproof thicker outer layer and so will last longer plus the hands can meet in the smock middle to help keep them warm but is over-the-head.

So not the same insulation quite a bit warmer is the Torres option. 

You also know Primaloft Eco is about 25% less insulation per weight than Primaloft One? 

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lfenbo
23/11/11 22:02
 Rookie 1019 forum posts 1 photo
yes nigel i agree about it being about more than the price difference,though like most peeps on here i do like a good bargain if can find one.i need to ponder for a little while i think and hopefully make a decision sooner rather than later thanks very much for your input it has been very informative.  regards
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James Shepard
25/11/11 19:16
 Rookie 61 forum posts 9 photos
Shop around on eBay. I've just picked up a Prism 2 from the US in XL so I can get a jumper or thicker base layer under it for £31 brand new. Even paying the shipping charge it is a load cheaper than buying it here.
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Mariusz Druzynski
02/01/12 18:44
 Rookie 115 forum posts
Which is better for winter climbing?
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