 > I normally try to avoid Ambleside because it gets so busy and parking is expensive, but went today to get a few bits and pieces and was struck by just how many gear shops there are there now Now? Has been for at least ten years. Here's the OP of a UKC thread from long ago: [quote] Topic - Grading system for kitmonsters by - captain paranoia on - 09 Dec 2002 Okay, you know how it is; you walk into a kit shop, and it's SO hard not to be tempted by all the lovely kit.
But exactly how hard is it? Wouldn't it be good to know just what a temptation you were likely to suffer?
I propose the following grading system, based on the British trad system, with an overall difficulty rating, and a technical grade for the hardest 'move':
Overall grade to consider:
location
accessibility
exposure (i.e. the psychological effect of the proximity of other shops leading to a kit frenzy)
product range
prices
degree of discounted prices (i.e sale items)
availability of credit
Technical grading for the difficulty of the crux; the single most desirable piece of kit.
You can only 'tick' the shop if you can walk round and not actually buy anything. Onsights, beta, etc. to be taken into consideration. Taking items back for refund after a purchase considered as headpointing.
For example, following a tour of the shops in Ambleside, may I suggest the following grades:
Sport Extreme (VDiff 4b)
Rock & Run (E5 6c)
Gaynor Sports (4-pitch, E4-E9 8a)
failed last pitch, coming away with socks and proofing kit
Rohan (sport F3)
Trespass (easy cruising blue run)
Tog24 (Diff)
F&T (E7 8a)
The Climber's Shop (two pitch E4, E6 7c)
Karrimor (E1 5a)
Stewart Cunningham (S)
YHA (HVS)
Millets (HS)
Summitreks (HVS 5b)
Didn't attempt the following:
Budget Walker (Grade 2 scramble)
Anorak (new route, as yet ungraded)
Rock Bottom (Mod)
Repeated routes on F&T, Climber's Shop, checking out Macpac, ME, Mello's and Mammut soft shells.
Successfully repeated all four pitches of Gaynor's on the Sunday. Failed attempt on Climber's on Sunday, coming away with five DMM Wild wire krabs.
Oh, I sliiped in a sport grade for Rohan (as it's not 'proper' kit), and a skiing grade for Trespass, as that seemed appropriate...
Anyone else care to comment on my grade suggestions, or suggest grades for their local shops? [/quote]
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| Edited: 05/12/11 18:22 |
> I still remember Harry Ramsden's from the beach Promenade in Bournemouth in the mid 90's? The one that stunk the whole beach front out with the stink of <i>burnt</i>, rancid dripping? Ugh. Glad when it closed. Also glad to see the monstrous IMAX cinema is being shrunk.
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I think F&T would only rate VDiff on an off day now. Rock and Run (now Lakes Climber) has lost most of its trickier moves too imo, but Adventure Peaks and the Epicentre are both well in the E grades. Never rated Gaynors more than HVS myself.
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 Mountain factor too of course - certainly both quite a large and dangerous place. Although they're all distinctive enough that its all fairly dependent on what brands you're at risk from. Lakes Climber/Runner still quite dangerous for Crux fans say. The climbers shop has certainly been much the most dangerous for me over time, although now Cunninghams have started stocking a bit of Norrona they're a lot less safe.... What do I get for trying on dangerous stuff, finding it to fit perfectly, resisting at the time in the shop, giving up overnight, failing to buy the next morning due to a random late opening and 'net ordering shortly afterwards?
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Climbers Shop is lethal for me. They tend to have lower prices for things than other Aside shops that stock the same and they offer 10% off too for taking your name and email from you in some loyalty card scheme. IMHO that has surely added some grades to it. Rock and Run is now mail order from Sandside near Milnethorpe (you can still visit to collect on your way south if you want). Lakes CLimber is definitely a bit tricky. They used to do good deals on Rab sleeping bags. If you showed any interest they'd keep offering more discounts to tempt you. Surely that is like turning up at a climb to find a rockfall has made it a lot harder?! Epicentre is a breeze on account their bargain rails up top are full of awful colours of nice gear that noone with any sense of pride in what they wear would buy. Then lower down it is overpriced Pattagucci or fat American gear Like MHW. It is only tricky for women as I think there is better women's gear there judging from the number of women I know who rate it and have bought lots from there. If you applied the same to Keswick I think Needlesports is tricky and Cotswolds if you find a bargain or have a Ramblers 20% off voucher to make it the same as other shops. They just have soo much stock in there that there is always something you like. Perhaps it is like a long multi pitch route. Not necessarily hard but it can tire you out so you make mistakes. George Fisher - well the cafe at the top is probably the crux move for me. Their broth on a cold day of walking is hard to pass by IMHO.
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| Edited: 06/12/11 13:03 |
> I think F&T would only rate VDiff on an off day now. Rock and Run (now Lakes Climber) has lost most of its trickier moves too imo Indeed. > Never rated Gaynors more than HVS myself. It's the sheer scale of the thing, and the vast pile of discounted stuff. I re-graded it later in the thread: "I'll probably drop the Gaynor's technical grade from 8a to hmmm, 7a. Whilst there were lots of nice things, there was nothing spectacularly droolsome. However, the E9 overall grade stands. The sustained nature of the route leaves one totally pumped, with that 'thousand yard stare' of the utterly shell-shocked, gibbering kitmonster. ("gore-tex jackets...£80...down jackets...£50...oh, the kit...the kit")" Maybe that should be the bargain-hunter's grade, rather than a pure, price-is-no-object kitmonster... It's interesting to look back at the old UKC thread; most of the posters have IDs under 1000 (I'm #284, mostly because I was late registering after they introduced such a thing... Wingnut is #49). UKC membership is now about 150,000... I'm a relative neophyte on OM...
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 I did the C2C when I was 17....at a tad less than £3,000... I doubt Paddy has spent that much on all of his walks put together 
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| Edited: 06/12/11 19:37 |
Ooops  The real shame is I missed the opportunity to insult Padddy  ....I'll try elsewhere
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Returning to chippys for a mo, the chippy in Shap was closed due to fire damage when I was last there. Looked a bit terminal to me. Incidentally, can anyone recommend a decent Chinese takeaway in Penrith? There used to be a good one we used a lot but it closed and the last one we tried was pretty grim.
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 carrying on with the chippy theme........ anyone been to the one in stavely recently? is it still open? doing the kentmere round on saturday an fancy a chippy tea
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Have you considered a visit to Wilf's, Ifenbo? Not a bad place to grab some food and drink. perhaps a bit nicer than the chippy. Their vegetarian chilli is supposed to be legendary but so far I have only heard that from the sign in Wilf's saying "try our legendary vegetarian chilli!" so I'm not sure if it is really legendary. Then for desert nip further along to the More! artisan bakers for a cake and perhaps another coffee too. Plus nice bread too. Also they do some hot food as well. I think their cakes are better than those in Wilf's.
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thanks for the info RoD, dont think my walking partner would thank me for suggesting a vegetarian meal after the round though  . he already specified chippy and pub, may try there next time im up with the mrs though .
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PUB?!! Eagle and Child in Stavely!! You MUST go there. Food and beer is good. You could sit down, eat and get drunk on their real ales. One of the best pubs in the Lakes I reckon.
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is that the one with the big open fire? if yes then i have been in there and enjoyed sitting next to fire havin a beer on previous trip .
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Fire? Think so. I remember the bar more than anything. It has a nice selection of beers on all the time. Also it has loads of nicnacs hanging above the heads of the bar staff. Everything from whips to fake breasts to riding crops to bridles.
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There was a plea from a wife too. She wanted to be buried underneath the bar so her husband would visit her 7 days a week!!
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Delicious pollock and chips with mushy peas in the Angel Lane Chippy tonight, all for less than £5. Pity I didn't do any exercise today to justify eating it.
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