I have done the ridge about 8 times. 3 times both directions in the same day.(harder from west to east, especially when tired). most times it has been wet conditions but always in summer.I have taken the purest route possible with no skirting. I have been doing solo winter climbs up to low grade 2 for nearly 2 seasons.Can anyone give me advice on a solo of the ridge in winter?
I've not done it in winter myself, but have done the ridge in summer. I'd say it'd be really pushing it if you're current top winter grade is II. The SMC guide has it at grade II/III, which is a grade given that assumes you'd be roped and use a rack. To solo it I'd want to be confident leading grade IV. It's also a route for two axes, which you might not be used to at low grade II?? Also, as most easy routes are gullies (ie. on snow) the mixed stuff on the ridge might give you a bit of a shock, as the techniques aren't quite the same as for snow. At a guess, I'd assume that the descent off that bit at the start would be the crux, and in winter I would suspect many would ab it.
If you're feeling confident you could give it a go, but it's a route with no real retreat options, the days are short, and you'll be carrying more kit. Would you carry a rope? If so would you also carry a rack? That'd be another six kilos or so if you carry both. If you don't carry a rope then you'd be really sticking your neck out.
Just opposite the Eagach is SNCL which has loads of good 'beginners routes'. Dorsal Arete would be the obvious choice for mixed and it was my first winter lead. I'd still not want to solo it, however. Boomerang Gully and NC gully are nice grade II gullies if in good nic. Obviously, just up the road is the Ben, which has tonnes of options. Ledge Route would be good practice for the Aonach Eagach because it's quite committing and quite long. However, it's a good notch easier.
You've done it eight times so you know the terrain, you have a couple of seasons of winter routes: I would be very surprised if you can't answer the question for yourself better than most others if you stop and give it a thorough think through, section by section.
The main thing to consider is that going down or across is actually harder than going up, and you may not have been doing much of that to date. Also bear in mind that descents in summer on warm rock using hands is very different to freezing rock with gloves and/or axes.
Thanks for the help Mr fuller, i have done ledge route in summer and it was easy albeit in a stunning setting. it would make a good introduction for soloing mixed ground. having thought about it the initial question was more aimed at the descent sections on the ridge, which is where Peter is exactly right. I have descended quite a few gully's which were just steep snow/ice and relatively straight forward. My fear is descent on mixed ground is more likely to cause concern without a rope. I will take a 30metre rope and a small rack which would at least give me the option of abseil if confidence waned.
If the ridge has been wind scoured, and is basically ice covered rock, then it will be harder than if it is covered in hard packed frozen snow. It can be quite straightforward if the latter.
Edit. Straightforward given your previous experiennce. I'm not advising a novice to try it.
If you do that - just be very, very polite. They've got standards there.
