Anyone out there scrambled the East ridge of Y Garn (Glyders), Snowdonia?
Steve Ashton lists it as a grade 2. Is it at the lower or upper end of that grade, in your opinion? What well-known North Wales scramble would you say it is comparable to?
I have seen this recommended as an intro to grade 2 but having done it as such would say it was more mid to upper grade 2. Just after the arete section comes a step right over a big drop. This is par for grade 2 but the next (crux) section is a climb up some blocks from the ledge you just stepped onto for which the holds seem widely-spaced and difficult to configure in such an exposed position for grade 2. If you fell backwards doing this you would not land on the ledge. I have wandered onto a diff climbing route during another scramble and this crux section did feel something like that to me. I cannot think of a well-known scramble that has this feature. Another point to bear in mind, when route-finding, is that Ashton's description relates almost completely to the last 10% of the route, that part above the level of Cwm Clyd. Don't be put off by this, just don't treat it as an easy intro to grade 2.
Not to sound too rude 10K STAR if I was planning to tackle the Welsh 3000'rs I personaly would not be reading and trusting in any guide book I would be paying said the mountains a visit well before any attempt at them,but hey thats just me Im guessing you have never been to Snowdonia?
I'm quite familiar with the Northern part of Snowdonia, having done the Snowdon Horseshoe, all six main paths, South ridge, outlying peaks such as Yr Aran and Moel Eilio. I have less experience of the Glyders but have been on Tryfan summit twice (via North and South), Glyders Fach & Fawr along with the Windy Castle
No experience at all of the Carneddau, which I plan to rectify when I do a pre-3000's visit in (possibly) April. Hoping to go for the 3000's on the June holiday weekend.
Hopefully, with good weather conditions, whatever I lack in experience & hill-savvy will be compensated by fitness level, determination & planning.
You could always leave the pub in Nant Peris at 10.30pm whilst slightly tipsy, stroll up to Crib Goch via Cloggy Station to bivy and then attack the W3s at 3am - worked fine for me.
In my opinion it's fairly mid grade 2. The lower section is pick-and-choose your own difficulty, and everything is pretty much avoidable. The difficulties come on Castell y Geifr; the top section. You enter a loose gully and move right to suddenly emerge on an airy crest.
As a previous poster says, this ends with an exposed step right over a big drop. The first time I did this it took me a while to commit to, but beyond this the top of the route is in sight. Oddly enough, the second time I did it the step didn't seem scary at all. I suppose it depends how your head for heights is.
I can't think of any Ashton route is compares to really. If you are in the area, then Glyder Fawr North West Face makes a good intro to grade 2 scrambling, although route finding can be tricky, so make sure you have a clear day.
