Is the ascent of Pen yr Ole Wen's South ridge really the steep gruelling slog that many claim it to be? (Not yet done it btw) Thanks for your answers 
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 I have only been up once, it is steep there is little or no flat on it.It depends where you start from, you have little chance to warm up from the A5. As part of the three thousanders it would be a slog but you only have to maintain 1 mph average so as long as you can continue to put one foot in front of the other you will be fine.
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And if you want stats,  It's 650m of ascent over a linear mile. So yes it's a slog.
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 In several ascents of Pen yr Ole Wen spanning 30-odd years, I've never yet been tempted to tackle the south ridge. It just seems like one of those routes, like Kirk Fell direct from Wasdale, to look at and ask yourself "Why?", given the alternatives available. The east ridge is just so much more appealing, and fits into a 3,000ers attempt very nicely if you come off Tryfan to Gwern Gof Uchaf.
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See  That sounds like a man that knows, it's funny that Matt mentioned the ascent of Kirk fell from Wasdale.I have been up Kirk Fell before and looked at the direct route the other day, and it certainly looks the least attractive route to the top. So if it doesn't need to be done, maybe don't do it. The best part of Pen yr Ole Wen is turning round and seeing the view, you will still get this from the east ridge any way.
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 Nothing is as bad as Kirk Fell from Wasdale! I quite like the South Ridge. Done it lots of times. Yes, it's steep but there are a few nice scrambly chimneys if you want them. Good in winter conditions.
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 The first time I ascended Pen yr Ole Wen, I was very young and very naive. I did it directly from Idwal cottage (South Ridge).
I have NEVER done it that way since.
A nicer way (IMHO) is to start from the A5 (SH 66845 60525) and follow the Afon Loer up the hillside to attain the East facing ridge to Pen yr Ole Wen's summit.
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 As a direct route from Ogwen I don't think it's that bad. It's steep but you get up quite quickly and provided it isn't completely clagged there are some good views back into Idwal as you go.
For me the slog route to avoid at all costs(not done but just never fancied) would be Helvellyn from Thirlmere. Descended the Kirkfell route not good for your knees so apart from quick would suggest to be avoided in either direction.
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 Back in the day when I was a fearless mountaineer (i.e. idiot) I recall going up by the Braich ty du slabs and over some really airy pinnacles at the top? Not exactly a walk but way better than the Sth ridge....the East ridge too - which for me is only 'good' for about 200m. Kirk Fell direct I have come down. I'll never go up...
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| Edited: 05/02/12 19:02 |
 I've been up S, E, W and N ridge approaches, and basically all the routes to the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen are a hard slog (haven't tried ByTD face, but doubt it's easier, just more interesting/exposed). East ridge has far better view opportunities than S - lovely waterfalls on the approach - views across the valley to Tryfan/Glyder Fach - down into cwm lloer to the north - up above the cwm towards Carnedd Dafydd where you are probably headed - and across towards Ffynnon Llugwy and the eastern Carneddau where you may be intending descent. Part of the reason the S ridge is such hard work is that you can never see how much further you have got to go - you're just staring at rock/heather all the way unless you stop and turn round to face outwards. Don't know when you're intending going - I went up the East ridge 2 days ago and with the exception of 1 iced up step (which could be bypassed with a bit of an undignified wriggling scramble) the conditions were really good. Not sure about the S ridge conditions, but either way the snow is disappearing fast below about 750m.
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It's horrible both in ascent and descent. Stick to the East Ridge as others suggest. I did Kirkfell from Wasdale in bottomless powder snow over New Year in 1978. That cured me for life, I have never been up it since
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