I'm considering another trip to Nepal next year, off the beaten track in the Annapurna region with a recognised trekking company. Has anyone been to Nepal recently, especially the Annapurna area, and do you have any experience of Maoists?
What are the general conditions like now in Kathmandu/Pokhara etc? It doesn't sound too good on the FCO website. Cheers G
spruce mate,things change over night,best keep up to date with the FO,to include if its with Your RECOGNISED trekking company they should keep you well briefed (IF)you ask?,saying that they wont want to scare you off,biz and all that.i am out in the Khumba region Late Nov,on me jacks may be a few other OM members will be out in your neck of the woods, and i dare say will come back with a few war stories to tell?
Just back from Annapurna Circuit yesterday. We avoided the Maoists til the last day of the trek, when we went up Poon hill for the 'classic' Annapurna sunrise view. On the way down, the Maoists were collecting the 1200 NR voluntary contribution from trekkers on their way down the hill. We walked past as they seemed inundated with middle aged French folks. Packed up in Ghorepani, then got on our way heading down to Naya Pul and the trailhead. Not half a mile out of Ghorepani and we were approached by a 16 year old lad waving what looked like a book of raffle tickets. We knew what it was about and, lacking enough rupees, we paid 40 Euros for the two of us. We were given a receipt and after shaking us both by the hand, he was off.
Many Israelis we met said they argued and didn't have to pay. I'd say let those from war torn areas feel like they're fighting the war on terror. For those of us who want to keep the reputation of our fellow countrymen good in the eyes of Maoists, pay up without any arguments. Our encounter was not at all scary, but refusal and arguments could have knock on effects for future trekkers, if not for you yourself.
Having pondered seriously whether or not to go on this trek, I can say I am very glad we decided to go to Nepal. The locals will welcomed us warmly, always underlining that the Maoists have repeatedly promised not to target tourists with violence and always giving the advice to pay up if asked to. This is to say nothing for the most incredible trekking experience I am ever likely to have where food and camping equipment are unecessary.
In all our chats with locals and other trekkers we heard of only one story of violence against a trekker. A Canadian chap dodged paying but was spotted and then encountered a check point where the Maoists were checking receipts. Apparently, he recieved a bit of a pasting. In a country where people are getting killed for associating/not associating with the Maoists, that's getting off pretty lightly but does tell me that relatively rich westerners are best off just coughing up.
Only you can make the decision, but I'd go again in a flash, even with the Maoists apparently in control in many remote areas of Nepal.
Thanks James for your reply, much appreciated and puts the mind at ease. I hope you enjoyed the Poon Hill sunrise, it's certainly worth the view.
It's a great pity what is going on, as you say the Nepalese are so friendly and deserve better. Was there a curfew in Kathmandu?
I agree with what you are saying about paying up the small amounts so as to keep the maoists going for ttravellers in a more serious way. Interesting what you said about the Israelis not wanting to pay up. When in Peru last year we were told that the local porters don't like the Israelis because they don't readily pay up for services rendered. We had some tag along with us and as soon as we suggested they pay our guide a few dollars for his services they disappeared!
Yes, the sunrise was fantastic but I could have done with boning up on the settings on our new digital camera. A lot of the pics I took just do not do the views justice. Hey ho. Another reason to go and have another holiday in the region. ;)
Yes it is a great pity for the Nepali populace - the overall feeling we were left with is that that Nepalese people are trapped in the middle between a stern, conservative monarchy/military and the stern communist Maoists. Both sides expect absolute adherence to their rules and this means many Nepalis find themselves in a hideous, often life-threatening catch 22 situation.
Regarding Israelis, I think the reason they didn't want to pay up has more to do with their education/indoctrination about giving in to 'terrorists' than anything else.
James, how long did it take you to do the circuit? Do you know approx how many miles/hours you were walking every day? I'm askingf becasue I would like to do the circuit but am limited timewise. Also I know in late Nov early Dec the Thorong La may get closed over by snow but no point in trying if I have't got time anyway. Thanks B
It took us 15 days, including about three very short days (<4 hrs) and three very long days (>7 hrs) and two complete rest days. Other days were about 5 to 6 hours. Distances aren't really helpful, since it's the up and down, and nature of the terrain that makes all the difference. We found we were, on average, 20% quicker than the timings in the Lonely Planet 'trekking in the Himayala' book. We also hiked back up to Ghorepani, which you might cut out, if pressed for time.
Thorung La was clear of snow for our crossing, though we spoke with a goodly few who'd made the crossing in snow okay including one chap who said he'd descended from the pass to Muktinath in under an hour by literally bounding and rolling down the mountain in the deep March snow...
Bit quicker than our (rather laboured) descent with little lying snow. Still, we managed to ascend in less than three hours, even with stops for Helen's slight altitude induced nausea.
We're not experienced trekkers, by any means but both relatively fit 30 somethings.
Regardless of the whys and wherefores of the situation, I'd quite happily pay the money and get the receipt. After all, what a great souvenir.
Secondly, always abide by the FCO advice. If you go and they are advising not to, your insurance will most likley be null and void. If the advice is no, you should be able to cancel and get your money back form one place or another.
Thanks James, that's really helpful feedback. It means I can do the circuit in the time I've got by the sound of it. As long as the pass isn't snowed out. Yippee!! Only 4.5 weeks to go.....Yahhhhh!
Less than 2 weeks to go.....(behaving like 9 year old the night before Christmas am that excited) almost 4 weeks away trekking in the Annapurna - Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!
Chris Townsend from TGO's just back from trekking Makalu and tells me that they had similar experiences of maoists, viz, no direct danger but paid a vountary contribution.
Fwiw I did the circuit and sanctuary treks in three weeks last year. After you cross the Thorung La you're pretty well acclimatised and heading down anyway, so at that point altitude no longer counts and you can go as fast as you want. My advice would be to take it conservatively up to the Thorung La for the sake of acclimatisation, but after that go as fast or slow as you want. Oh, and start very early going over the pass. It's not so much that it's a long way, more that the wind can get up if you start later and it'll be in your face.
Finally, pack something to wear in the hot springs and beware the apple brandy my children :-) Good chocolate cake and apple crumble in the Paradise in Marpha.
