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Mallory's Clothing
 
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Mallory's Clothing
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Mallory's Clothing Could Have Climbed Everest...
Exact replicas of the clothing worn by Mallory and Irvine on Everest in 1924 show that it would have been both wam enough and mobile enough to work well on the world's highest mountain.

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Chris Townsend
04/10/05 19:10
 Rookie 2422 forum posts
"the modern garments offered better flexibility and movement as the layers slid easily over each other" - actually the findings of the conference (which I attended) were the opposite. Mallory's clothing was light and flexible and the layers didn't bind at all.

The lack of zips (and Velcro) was a problem though. Mallory wore three pairs of long johns topped by plus fours, all with button flies.

I doubt the 1924 Expedition started the current lightweight trend. There is rather a long time in between when gear got heavier! What is true is that a concern for minimising weight has been around since the start of recreational mountaineering.
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Dave Ellis 7
04/10/05 19:24
 Rookie 230 forum posts
I am personally still a little dubious about the whole reconstruction. It smacked to me of being (some garments more than others) an example of recreating a dinosaur skeleton from a single tooth.

What leaves me uncomfortable about the whole recreation is that the project has set out to aim to recreate over light garments simply to reinforce a tenuous link with current clothing trends. Trends which I feel are often causing a compromise on quality to achieve un-needed levels of lightwieghtness (if that's a word).

Mallory was going up Everest so he needed the gear. Many people in the UK set out carrying too much kit for their needs. It may be lightweight but that doesn't matter if you don't need it! The best way to reduce weight will always be to leave stuff at home!
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Weird Darren
04/10/05 19:27
 Rookie 5503 forum posts 8 photos 18 articles 2 reviews
Is this the third thread on this subject?

Chris will there be a correctly reported account of this in TGO next month for us all to read?
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Jon Doran
04/10/05 19:40
 Rookie 9677 forum posts 60 photos 5779 articles 10 reviews 14 bookmarks
Oi! It was just bad editing on my part, Charles' original copy was correct, just a bit ambiguous and I got the wrong end of the stick. Obviously I shall be wearing Burberry in future.
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Weird Darren
04/10/05 19:42
 Rookie 5503 forum posts 8 photos 18 articles 2 reviews
Suits you sir


<gets coat and runs for door>
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captain paranoia
04/10/05 20:02
> is that the project has set out to aim to recreate over light garments simply to reinforce a tenuous link with current clothing trends

Has it? My recollection of seeing the Nova documentary was that the clothing on Mallory's body was indeed very lightweight, and commented upon by all those who saw it, resulting in many theories that he and Irvine were compromised by the poor protection is supposedly offered.

So it seems to me that the re-creation has been fairly accurate. Granted, I've not been up to check the original clothing myself...

Your comments aren't coloured by one regular criticism of Paramo clothing being heavy, by any chance...?

;-)
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Marcus Crompton
04/10/05 20:17
 Rookie 3634 forum posts 444 photos 18 reviews 1 bookmark
I'm disappointed there won't be any Burberry outdoor gear.

Are briar pipes back in for next year?
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Marcus Crompton
04/10/05 20:17
 Rookie 3634 forum posts 444 photos 18 reviews 1 bookmark
Paramo stuff is heavy.

What about monocles?
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Ninja Marmot
04/10/05 21:27
 Rookie 33592 forum posts 71 photos 3 articles 18 reviews
Yes, they're heavy, too.





If you carry them in bulk.
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Chris Townsend
04/10/05 21:56
 Rookie 2422 forum posts
No idea if there'll be a piece on this in TGO. I haven't been asked to write one.

I think the reconstruction was a little more than recreating a dinosaur skeleton from a single tooth (though palaentologists will tell you that a tooth can reveal an amazing amount). There was enough left of many of the garments to not only identify the fabric but also the construction and design. I was impressed at the research that went into making the reconstruction as accurate as possible.

I don't think the aim is to reinforce a tenuous link with current clothing trends either (except maybe for the revival of wool as a base layer fabric). Overall I think the aim was to simply increase knowledge of early mountaineering ventures and also to try and find out whether the clothing of the time would have been a huge disadvantage. The main thing learnt is that the clothing would have been adequate whilst moving (but pretty chilly if stationary for long) and that the members of the 1924 expedition took care to find the best clothing available rather than just wearing old clothes, as is sometimes thought.

The individual items may be quite light but the whole clothing system isn't for the amount of warmth provided. I don't think Al Hinkes will be giving up his down suit!


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Evil Darren
06/10/05 13:45
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Interesting experiment, but proof of the pudding....

How would they compare on cost though?
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Chris Townsend
06/10/05 14:57
 Rookie 2422 forum posts
Well, reconstructing Mallory's clothing took several expeditions to Everest, four university departments and years of research so I don't think the stuff will be cheap. And then the merino wool has to come all the way from New Zealand .....
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captain paranoia
06/10/05 19:09
I wouldn't mind seeing a TGO article on the topic, Chris. Have a word with Cameron, maybe? Or perhaps it's too niche?
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Chris Townsend
06/10/05 19:10
 Rookie 2422 forum posts
I don't think it's too niche. At present we're all working flat out on the December issue, the content of which is decided, but once that's over I'll mention it to Cameron.
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squid muffin
15/08/08 06:35
 Rookie 1 forum post

when you quoted the author of this piece you said :

"the modern garments offered better flexibility and movement as the layers slid easily over each other"

however, the article reads :

"the 1920s equipment offered better flexibility and movement as the layers slid easily over each other"

look it up, fool

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Mike fae Dundee
15/08/08 07:16
This thread is from 2005!
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david fowler 2
15/08/08 08:06
 Rookie 757 forum posts 8 bookmarks 37 classifieds
did'nt they wear harris tweed jackets (no joke)
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Richard G.
15/08/08 08:12
squid muffin wrote (see)
however, the article reads :

If you take the trouble to read the whole thread, you'll find the editor of this site amended the article.

squid muffin wrote (see)

... fool

Oh, I think we'll be the judge of that.... welcome to the forum, by the way.  
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Jester*
15/08/08 11:55
 Rookie 1927 forum posts 79 photos 10 reviews
I shall reply to this thread in another two years
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Ted Malthouse
17/08/10 22:38
I want to know where I can get the patterns for the over jacket so I can try the outfit for myself, I know that the fabric works but it is the current cost of good silk and cashmere wool that precludes the use of classic combination without a university research budget
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