 One of the best, you simply 'must' take the boat in to Coruisk tho!
|
 |
 It sure beats the long walk in :) In particular the walk down geln Sligachan which is not only long but extremely boggy.
|
|
Long walk in very nasty - the ground over the coastal way is horrible!
We 'did' Sgurr Nan Gillean last year, to help a mate complete his round. Should have seen the look on the faces of those occupying the SMC(?) hut when we showed up in a clyde puffer of Para Handy style - there was 43 of us... actually tbh with a silly group of that size the hill almost did us :)
|
|
There's a "Gibber Factor" 5 route coming next month :)
|
|
Woo-hoo! - any clues? or do we have to
'watch this space?'
|
|
...a question exactly when does scrambling become climbing?
I've always thought that scrambling was way riskier than protected routes - what says you?
|
|
Clues: It's one of the options mentioned for the winner of the OM Glencoe competition. If that doesn't make people enter I don't know what will lol.
Unfortunately although I'm a freelance I'm not allowed to enter OM competitions due to the amount of work I do for them - otherwise I'd keep my mouth shut about it lol.
|
|
Scrambling becomes climbing once the route qualifies for a climbing grade of Diff or higher.
IMHO unprotected scrambling is possibly the most dangerous mountain activity short of high altitude mountaineering. However, just because something is graded as a scramble doesn't mean you can't use protection. Personally I advise taking rope and a basic rack on anything grade 2 or above - better to be safe :) Even grade 1 scrambles can need pro if you're taking novices.
|
|
 So can Scottish people enter this? Seems to me the sponsors have already decided the winner will live in Wales or England ;)
Quote: "The winner and a (very lucky) friend will be driving themselves up to Scotland on Friday night"
|
|
lol Oot, of course you can enter (no guarantee on winning though lol)
|
|
 The suggestions listed for the winner are "Aonach Eagach Ridge, Curved Ridge on the Buchaillle or even Tower Ridge on the Ben"
The only hard one is tower ridge which certainly pushing the upper bounds of scrambling, so this is almost certainly the route that will feature.
An awesome route! Spectacular (and much harder) if climbed in winter conditions.
|
|
Nick, if you check the archives you'll see I've already done the routes for Aonach Eagach and Curved Ridge :)
|
|
 the route itself is great, but people should not underestimate the seriousness of this route. The abseil can be particularly intimidating if the weather is not good. I think it is foolish to recommend this route to any other than competent climbers for this reason alone.
|
|
Leslie,
I understand what you're getting at, however:
Mention is made that this is pretty much as close to climbing as you can get whilst still being classed as a scramble.
There is a bypass to the abseil, which is mentioned.
Escapes are routes are mentioned whenever available.
Routes are given for information purposes only and it is always the responsibility of those undertaking a route to make sure they have the relevant equipment, technique and experience to successfully complete the route.
See my above post regarding scrambling being possibly the most dangerous mountain activity short of high altitude mountaineering in combination with the warning that appears at the bottom of all our scrambling routes.
|
|
Well said Leslie, let the BMC participation statement never be far from the mind!
|
|
I think this whole gibber factor nonsense is just attracting adrenaline junkies into situations they are not competent to handle!
|
|
" I think this whole gibber factor nonsense is just attracting adrenaline junkies into situations they are not competent to handle! "
First, do you have any evidence to support this statement? Secondly the "Gibber Factor" is obviously subjective and comparitive to other scrambles. Thirdly the "Gibber Factor" isn't my idea but is a part of the template to which I have to work.
|
|
Don't take my comments as a personal attack, I have done many of the routes as described over many years. The most important thing is to encourage adventure whilst also advising caution.
The way in which some of these routes described, in my view, seem to appeal to those seeking the quick thrill of mountaineering without the need for experience.
|
|
Gibber factor
This is not new & precedents have been set in several climbing guides over the years, Rockfax being the most well known, they use a fluttery heart and a gun to designate gibber and seriousness.
Other examples can be in certain Yorkshire Gristone guides, Llanberis slate, the first one I came across was Jim Eriksens, 1980 Boulder Climbs (Colorado)
I am sure there will be others.
|
|
Hi
I like the route descriptions on this forum - they are well balanced and informative.
The gibber factor rating is pretty cruddy though - one mans gibber is very different to anothers so they are meaningless - at least in my view.
As an example I've been up Tower Ridge several times and only felt moderately gibbery (?) on that slightly overhanging bit before the Great Tower yet I once felt extremely gibbery on a slippery slab with a big drop below on a simple scramble on Great Carrs in the Lakes.
PS: if I've got the location of the overhanging bit wrong on Tower Ridge please forgive me - it's a long route and it blurs in the memory - it's the bit where you climb off of a small ledge with a big drop beneath it and you have to reach up 7-8 feet or so at a slight outward angle. Much more nerve wracking when soloing than Tower Gap!
Cheers
Nick
|
|
