After getting a part time job on a buiding site through the summer break, i used my meindl burma boots for work and as a result have totally wrecked them.
So its time for new boots. I tried on a pair of Scarpa charmoz gtx boots and they were really comfortable, i dont do any serious climbing at the moment , just a bit of scrambling and rocky mountain paths.
I also tried on a pair of Scarpa mirage gtx which felt a bit softer but not quite as comfy around the foot, and a pair of Raichle Mt Envy boots which were also comfy but maybe a little wide.
So it looks like the Charmoz is winning, its classed as a b2 boot, but didnt feel as stiff as the Manta M4.
Are these boots overkill for yr round use?
I don't think they're overkill for year round use, assuming that they are not insulated. They should be good for summer in the alps, winter walking/climbing, year round scrambling, low grade rock climbing/mountaineering and big mountain walks. However, they're probably going to stand out somewhat, as big mountain boots. So, personally, I'd feel a bit of a prat wearing those for a simple ramble in the Yorkshire Dales or on anything less than the big peaks in Snowdonia, Lakes and Scotland. Likewise, I would snigger at anyone wearing them. However, you generally won't go over on your ankle in big boots with a hight cuff and you will have dry feet all day.
IMOH they are overkill. I only ever use B2 boots (Asolo Peaks) when I suspect I will be wearing crampons. The rest of the time I use approach shoes.
I'd agree with Guy above, I use approach shoes (Merrels) or lightweight Inov-8s most of the time.
'...However, you generally won't go over on your ankle in big boots with a hight cuff and you will have dry feet all day.'
Strangely the only time I've gone over on my ankle and hurt it seriously was a number of years ago wearing high cut Scarpa Mantas.
Thanks for the input guys.
I dont really do much low level stuff in the UK, and dont get out that often and when i do its usually ben nevis , snowdon etc to make the most of what little time i have.
The comfort factor is really swaying my decision and for the intended use, i think they will be fine.
There a light weight boot for what they are, similar to the la-sportiva trango s, and the fact that im not on the hills as often as i would like , shouldnt have to deal with that many people sniggering at me if i wear them for the occasional stroll.
the charmoz like the trango s evo is a softer flex B2 type boot designed for scrambling and mountain use, not really for too much steeper snow ice,
as a scrambling summer alpine boot its got all the features, just like the sportiva,
the only thing i would say about charmoz and envy is that the sole unit used on these and trango and alot of modern scrambling boots, is that the grip isnt good on softer ground, great on dry ground and rock, but mud and wet you tend to accelerate down a hill,
just a warning, as i use a boot with this sole, and accept its weakness,
buy what fits as always
if you are scrambling alot then why not get a sole unit designed to help, but if you mainly walk up rocky ground then a "normal" 3 or 4 season boot might be better for underfoot comfort as they have more shock absorbing
About 10 months ago I chose between the Charmoz and the Trango Evo S for a winter and scrambling boot. I went for the Trango and I'm glad I did. It seemed noticeably more flexible and comfortable to walk in than the Charmoz (it flexes rather than my foot having to rock), and it also seemed less fiddly to do up and less bulky around my ankle.
I've been really pleased with it - it did all last season's winter work (no technical climbing but some crampon use i.e I'm a 'one axe only' kind of guy in winter!), coped admirably with a week on the Cuillins, has done some more high grade scrambling, and yet has still been comfortable and not felt like overkill when I've just worn them to go for a walk. I suspect the Charmoz would have spent summer in the cupboard!
I found the fit very similar so I'm sure I could have chosen either, but for use that doesn't extent to winter climbing I think I made the right choice for me....
Btw, I've heard the same point gearboy makes about the grip on soft ground but I can't say I've encountered any such problems.
Btw too, I think the Trango Evo S is only rated B1, although I reckon B1.5 would be more accurate
When you say the Trango and Charmoz are a similer fit, do you mean in width and length? i.e does lets sa, a size 43 charmoz size up the same as the trango?
Im interested in the trango now as it sounds to be a tad softer, better suited to what i need, but will not have the chance to try them on for size in a store, only order them online, and time is running out, as i need a pair of boots within 2 weeks
dont buy boots online, dont buy boots online, dont buy boots online,
if you cant get to a shop that stocks both wait, otherwise if you are happy with what you have locally then get it, the charmoz is a different fit to trango
So I think a B2 boot makes a good scrambling boot as the sole is so stiff but if your just walking over rough terrain then a normal B0 boot will be better, unless of course you need to wear crampons in winter.
Well i ended up with a pair of charmoz boots.
I had my feet measured and after trying on an assortment of different boots ended up with a size 44 which i always thought was a size to large for me with different brands of boots, but fit me perfectly with enough room in the toe box to kick steps in snow and not bash my toes on descents.
After trying on different shoes side by side, i was amazed at the difference in stiffness between the manta and charmoz considering they are both rated B2, there is a lot more flex in the charmoz, i just couldnt get on with the manta's at all
chuffed to bits at the moment, but will let you all know after an ascent of Ben Nevis in 3 weeks time
Thanks for the advice everyone
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