Choosing rock shoes

advice for beginner please

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scotminx
07/12/2003 at 09:35
Hi,

I've a few questions about this.
BTW, I'm just going to an indoor climbing wall at the moment and I'm in no particular hurry to get onto real rock.

I don't want to spend very much, being a beginner and a student, but I keep hearing about the importance of fit.
I also have quite strange-shaped feet (due to biomechanical probs). So strange that the hire shoes at the wall aren't a bad fit. But I seem to be a common size, so they often don't have pairs left in my size.

I already looked for the Millets Rox that were reviewed on here but my local Millets had never heard of them and said they'd never stocked rock shoes, and were one of the larger branches.

Is it worth waiting for January sales, or are they the kind of thing that is rarely reduced?

Any other advice welcome; thanks in advance.
John Corteen
07/12/2003 at 10:30
Rock shoes, like walking boots are a very personal thing as far as fit is concerned and the only way to find out what's a good fit is to try on loads of pairs until you find some that suit your feet.

Unfortunately Millets the store have nothing to do with Millet the outdoor clothing company and there’s not much prospect of there ever being a relationship between the two companies. I don't know where you are in the UK but you should visit shops like Snow and Rock, Field and Trek, Cotswold or most of the shops listed on the left hand side of this page under “Shopping Partners”.
Drew
07/12/2003 at 12:17
AS John says, try them on and see what fits. Talk to the sales person, and see if they know what they're saying, or if they just BS you.

Basically for your first pair you will probably want something with quite a solid sole, and thick rubber too. That way they will last longer. Scarpa always seem to me, to last longer. You should probably keep away from 5.10, and Red Chilli. Apart from that, just try tham on, and as long as your feet are fairly comfy, and they feel like your feet are completely surrounded, then they should be alright.

I personally have had Scarpa Helix's, 5.10 Anasazi Velcro's, and now 5.10 Ascent's. The rubber won't last very long, but they're really nice. My feet are held firmly, and my toes are nicely crushed. It's a strange feeling having your toes crushed properly, but that's what they do.
John Moore
07/12/2003 at 13:21
I agree with both of the above.
Try as many as pair possible and go for comfort not cost while training. You can spend a small fortune on rock shoes but don't.
While you are just starting out you will need to build up your stamina and upper body strength first then you can start working on your footwork. Buy cheap to start with then if the bug bits you hard just put a couple of quid away each week then in 6 months when you've got the stamina splash the cash nd work on your foot work.
I've a pair of good boreals size 7 sitting around doing nothing (my first shoes) if you live in the north west there yours if you want them and if they fit of course.

Or just ask anyone localy if they have a old pair to donate to you on www.ukclimbing.com/forums/index.html
scotminx
08/12/2003 at 18:33
Thanks. Main concern really is that best fitting pair could turn out to be really expensive & also make me look like an annoying poser if I did get them.
Locally can only find 2 places that sell rock shoes & they don't seem to have any under £60. :-(
There seem to be much cheaper pairs available online but the return postage when/if they didn't fit could get expensive.
FrankB
08/12/2003 at 18:56
ignore any advice about squashing your feet into a pair of shoes that are two sizes too small - go for your regular street size (the shoes will be smaller to compensate anyway). As a previous mentioned, buy a pair of cheap shoes that you don\t mind trashing due to poor footwork (inevitable to begin with). Consider a pair of East European shoes like Triop - £35 or so, and avoid anything extreme (asymetrical designs)!
Heidi Jones
08/12/2003 at 19:14
Or...you could just hire a pair at the wall and see if you like them. They tend to have cheap rock boots, so if they fit buy some the same.

Get the women’s specific fit boots too as they are much better than the one for male feet but these will not be cheap and will be around £60. Don't put up with male footwear, you don’t have to so don’t get pushed into buying the only boots they have in the shop. Get the shop to get some in for you (in your size...they often don’t remember that bit!) and try them on.
Giles Thurston
08/12/2003 at 23:02
If I could give one piece of advice it would be to go for comfort. I've seen too many people buying their first pair of rock shoes 2 sizes smaller than their high street size because that's what all the best climbers do!

Rubbish, as a beginner its of no benefit and will only cause you lots of pain and potentially put you off. I would normally suggest either the same or half a size smaller than your normal shoes would be a good place to start IMHO. As Heidi says, try to hire a pair at your local wall and play around with the sizes until you find something that suits you.
Matt
08/12/2003 at 23:04
Giles, i did just that, well 1/2 a size smaller anyway and they are still uncomfortable. I intend to get a pair that fits correctly soon, anyone for a pair of 9 1/2 Scarpa Helix ??
Giles Thurston
08/12/2003 at 23:11
I suppose its down to the individuals feet and manufacturer Matt. I have a pair that are half a size smaller and they are fine for single pitch and at the wall but a killer for all day wear on multi-pitch routes. I'm looking to get a new pair in the spring specifically for multi-pitch and will definitely go bigger.

My wife actually wears a pair 2 sizes bigger than her usual size and she reckons they still hurt, but then I just thought she had weird feet ;)

Try before you buy has to be the best advice!
Matt
08/12/2003 at 23:13
Definatley, never ever but rock shoes mail order unless you've tried them b4 elsewhere or there is a solid returns agreement !!
Matt
08/12/2003 at 23:13
That should say buy !!
Drew
09/12/2003 at 11:26
Whatever you do, don't buy over the internet. Trust me, I went to Outside, and tried on:

5.10 Anasazi Velcro size 9, a touch too big.
5.10 Anasazi Velcro size 8.5, a touch too small.
Finally, a different pair of 5.10 Anasazi Velcro size 9, perfick!


When they cut the material they get lots of layers and the machine pushes a big template downon it. First layer gets cut, but the last layer gets squashed. The layer on the very bottom, get squashed, pushed out, and then it gets cut. Hence, when the material is not being squashed, the overall cut is a bit smaller. It's more noticeable in rock shoes, but it happens in all of them. If they have two shoes, both of your size, try them both. One might fit a touch better.


Oh, and anyone who thinks about buying rock shoes, without trying them on a bit of an indoors wall is mad. They should have some tiny features (or coins like Outside in Hathersage), for you to stand on!
John Moore
09/12/2003 at 22:37
Just back from my local wall The North West Face in Warrington.
They have a box of new shoes of different sizes for £25 a pair.
Don't spend much more than this when starting out.
Phone them they may post you some out. Buy the same size as your normal shoes. £25 is worth the risk when starting out and saving up for a good pair later on.
Ninja Marmot
10/12/2003 at 00:15
Or second-hand shoes from the local wall's ex-hire rummage box - some of our D of Ed kids started out with those; already worn-in so comfortable, just £3 a pair and after a bit of work with a cycle tyre repair kit, lasts a year - bargain!
Ben Hedley
12/12/2003 at 23:08
take a look at the mad rock range. basically stickier 5.10's at a better price.

Ditto the trying on 1st. tried 3pairs of mad rock flashes size 9 which wer to small, pair of flashes size 9 to big and finally a 8.5 pair of mugans...perfect.

also worth remembering is that rock shoes strech after a while. what may be very tight when new usually give q fair bit. My mugans crippled me when i 1st wore them n are now almost perfect after 4times wearing them.
Ben Hedley
12/12/2003 at 23:25
jus read the thread again. The millet (pronounced mil-ley)boots i reviewed are a french company n as far as im aware dnt retail in the uk. Incidently 2weeks after i reviewed them they finally fell apart n are now relegated to outdoor stuff only.

I think the fit thing is really subjective and really up to the owner. My rox fitted fine (jus a little tight) when i bought them + by the time they were retired were so loose i couldnt get them tight enough. My new mugans are very tight and quite painful still after about2hrs wear and at the mo anyway not something id wear all day. BUT with rock and run doing fantastic deals at the mo its worht buying a pair of comfy shoes for all day/mulit pitch + a more tech pair for single pich/bouldering etc.
joan collins
16/12/2003 at 19:05
Charlotte, I would wait for the sales if money's an issue. You'll sometimes find discontinued styles at a discount. Unless you're a performance climber trying to push your grade, you should find many shoes will do the job; you can tell straight away if a shoe is totally wrong for you. I've climbed in all sorts of borrowed and hired shoes, and none has ever been bad enough to make a noticeable difference from my own, let alone ruin a day out. And ignore the size label, as sizing seems to vary a lot between brands and even between styles. For maximum size/shape adjustability, go with laceups, but if you're more interested (like me) in getting them on and off without faff, and you can find some which fit well, velcro is better. I currently wear 5-10 Anasazi Velcros, and I've also had their women's shoes which I think they no longer make - Diamonds or Spades, something like that.
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