I am nicking the idea from Mole but I don't think he will mind as he has a Scarp himself. I have added guylines to the poles sleeves and to the fornt Panel (Just above the mid strut) after Franco D mentioned it on BPL.
I would be interested to hear anyones thoughts on using an alternate method to connect the Cross Poles and other methods of guying.
I have tried Mini Carabinbers on the Cross poles but they are just as awkward.
p.s. Yet it is a quiet day at work for once
Maybe something like this could do the trick for the Cross poles.
Mine works fine right 'out of the box' so I see no need to modify it above adding side guys which just makes sense really.
Using the existing pegging points gives a rock solid pitch.
I don't use the crossing poles though as if it is looking that rough I'll take the Unna as the weight difference is negligible.
Good man Ed
The Unna does look nice, is that your winter tent?
Stephen wrote (see)
Here's my mods
I came across your Blog when researching the Scarp, have you any photos of your guying arrangement in use?
Here or more recently here
There's reviews of how it performed on a number of my trip reports, just type "scarp" into the search box
I'm also using a Duomid at the moment.
I do like the look of the Duomid, I see you got Sean to pimp you out a fabric inner, nice one
Good idea Stephen, though the thread drift crept in quite soon!
I really like the Scarp - It's the least flappiest, stable, headandfootwiggleroom, tent in it's class!
When (actually, before) I got my Scarp, I studied Robin's Mod pages (thanks Robin) and also checked out Francos ideas on Youtube etc.
Personally, I didn't see the need for most of Robins mods (e.g. the end vent cord is fine and hooks securely over the linelocs without the need for extra gubbins), but others were useful - mainly the obvious ones such as zip pulls and side guys, but also the tip to the seam seal the tape from the apex of the roof to prevent moisture wicking down is sound
I have seen a couple of Scarps where the owners have replaced the end guys for much longer lines. I too believe the supplied guys to be a little 'mean' , but have managed so far, but there will probably come a time when the pitch footprint and surround is too hard to take a peg securely, and longer guys will be useful. Robins method to use 2 pegs is worth knowing if you want to carry less pegs (or lose them!)
I have found that connecting a 'lifter' to the windward end of the roof is useful in strong winds - preventing the large roof panel from pushing into the inner. (I camped the 'windy monday' in this years TGO, but had a 'worse' night higher up in the west highlands the week before).
I attached a single line (with a loop of shockcord at the fly) , to a walking pole out some way from the tent, then had a line looped around the pole with 2 ends pegged at 45degree angle from the centreline. I think it may be described in Henrys instructions?
In ascending order of irritation, the 3 issues I have with the tent are:
I was just typing a comment when my PC went 'tits up' - technical term.
I pretty much echo what Mole say's - I've had the Scarp two (?) years or so and have used it a lot - but probably not in such consistently bad weather as Mole encountered on the TGO.
As far as I can see Robin you modified the Scarp without using it....or am I just not reading attentively enough? If so, that I don't get, but each to their own.The BD style cord ties are better than most other systems I have used.
I've tried the 'line out to pole' thing and did not find it did much; but then have probably only had the tent up in winds gusting to 50mph ish?
Mole wrote (see)the velcro holding the roof vents is not long enough -In driving rain (very windy) a few times, I have had significant drips forced through the 1cm gaps at each edge. The Door flaps are very easy to get stuck in the zip, a stiffer fabric or another layer of something tougher would only addd a few grams. But as they are, I need to remember hold my finger to keep the flap away whilst using the zippersThe Yellow pole sleeve is PU coated not silnylon - this makes it 'sticky' on the pole when wet. IMO 70D silnylon would be a better choice. I found it annoying when trying to take the pole out on wet mornings after having tents where the pole just slides out easily without coaxing.
Re. the above.
Don't know - but think it does happen based on not too much rain experience.
Ditto; must be a way of stiffening them perhaps?
Don't find that a problem. I drop the pole then holding the nearest end to me pull the pole sleeve fabric towards me so it bunches close to the hand holding the near side. Do this a couple of times and the sleeve should be scrunched up that side. Then let go that side and just pull the bunched material off the 'short' section of pole.
probably makes no sense....?
My additional dislikes...not really dislikes:
When striking the tent make sure you adjust the guys on the carbon struts so that there is 2cm's of line protruding from the lineloc that you can get a grip on next time you pitch (the longer line aids with peg location). Further, it helps with the inevitable later sag.
Try and pitch on level ground or the pole does get a touch 'asymmetric' and pitch needs adjusting.
All in all; best tent I have ever had for the weight, space, and ease of pitching.
Caveat: I have only started using the 'down to the ground' fly for the last 20 or so nights. Still think I prefer the original??
The rationale behind the end guy system was to have the flexibility to save two pegs (either not to take them or if one is lost). The weight saving is small and not decisive. I took the idea from the Akto. and adapted it. Occasionally I've reverted to the original configuration in windy conditions to ease the strain on the corner pegs. I do think it's worth using longer lengths of cord on the corners as it improves the angle of pull on the pegs. The corner pegs are under a lot of strain.
The only essential mod is sealing the pole arch and the crossing pole loop. Otherwise you will get some water ingress.
I bow to Mole's experience on the vent closures. I've not had a problem but the weather in this year's TGOC was more of a test than the weather I've experienced, even though I've been in some bad storms.
Some minor niggles:
Inner door ties back. I've adapted mine to a loop and a cord grip.
Pockets. Ones supplied are useless. I've made a movable one out of half a silnylon stuff sack and safety pins. Why do so few tents have decent pockets?
No zip pulls. Easy to make yourself.
That's about it really. If I had to have only one tent it would be the Scarp. Having used an Akto and a Laser Comp, it's better than either. The extra weight over the Comp is more than offset by the Scarp's stability and the roominess.
One word of warning. Be careful with the pole. The end of one section had a small split after a few uses. I swapped the sections around so it's now at one end, so not a problem. I'm thinking of shortening a slightly thicker DAC pole that I have spare from an old (deceased) tent and using that. The weight difference would be minimal.
The Duomid is a very different tent, but I really like that as well.
Great conversation and tips
Keep them coming.
I seam sealed mine but must put some strips of sealer on the inner floor and some on the cross poles attachment points and on the vents.
Off now to to the Orthadontist to get the bottom row of braces fitted and the top ones tightened so must dash and will check in later if I am not hiding in a dark room feeling sorry for myself
Have a great weekend,
p.s. I was hoping to use my Scarp as my Winter Tent also so any comments on that would be interesting, I do like to look of the Unna that Restless has
Good info Robin
I've not 'McNetted' my floor as I like to be able to easily move my sleeping position (it's that dreadful site selection of mine).....the Scarp is wide enough so that you can (generally) adjust to the pitch under you.
In Glen Dee last week I had a relatively comfy night cos I could re-orientate myself and attain an OK position; 'wriggleability' is a good thing in my book...
How I wish I'd taken a picture of that sorry night's camping spot
Not sure if you can discern the condensation on the inner in this pic - but it was quite the wettest night I have had in a tent. Mike's Stephenson 2R and mick's Akto were the same.
First I like to thank Stephen for starting the thread.
Changes from the original to the current version.
The Tarptent way is to favour air flow over "tent warmth" so the fly was designed the TT way, later to be changed by popular demand to what I called the "UK" version.With that the , end zippable vents were added as well as an easy way to lift the fly up along the main pole as well as other minor tweaks.Do keep in mind that air circulation is better than a warmer but damper environment. (your down bag at least will appreciate that)
Now to some of the comments in no particular order.
I too believe the supplied guys to be a little 'mean' , but
The corner tie out points are designed to work with the two struts and they form what Henry called the "pitch lock corner" . So changing it alters the way it works and it does work as it is.Just to prove the point I did publish a picture of me putting all my weight (well 70kg...) on to it and towards the inside. The corner holds. (DO NOT do that...)When striking the tent make sure you adjust the guys on the carbon struts so that there is 2cm's of line protruding from the lineloc that you can get a grip on next time you pitch
good point particularly in winter using gloves. As a tip , to help pulling the tie out taut use one hand to push the apex of the triangle outwards and pull the tie out with the other.HOWEVER , try to have the tie out lines fully extended (apart from a cm or two) at the start .
The trick on using those ties is the way you secure them ( a mate of mine just destroyed the ones on his Moment...)
When you do the loop up insert the working end twice.. This way it will remain there but it is also easy to undo.
(don't pull the knot tight. Undo it by sliding a finger under the knot. BTW when rolling the door up, start at the corner))
next part 2..
The Scarps have 12 zip sliders so 12 zip pulls are required. Whatever type we could come with, many would change it to their "favourite " type . (IE : I have saved 2.35 g by...)
I make my own by dipping cheap (and highly visible) mason line into a very runny mix of silicone and mineral spirit. That is from the leftover of my seam sealing efforts.
You end up with a still very light but waterproof and rubbery bit of string.
The lineloks can slip when then cord is wet.
True but in my experience not at the angle the end triangle is set, however it does occasionally on the Contrail.So another reason not to fiddle with that corner set up.
the velcro holding the roof vents is not long enough -In driving rain (very windy) a few times, I have had significant drips forced through the 1cm gaps at each edge.
Could be a manufacturing problem but having enough room to slide a finger inside that helps when opening up again and also when folding the tent up (easier if you leave at least one vent fully open)
Do keep in mind that the fabric inner can hold water if not under pressure (like from drizzle/mist) but not heavy rain)
The Yellow pole sleeve is PU coated not silnylon - this makes it 'sticky' on the pole when wet. IMO 70D silnylon would be a better choiceThis is possibly more by accident than choice. When Henry built his Rainbow prototype he had some yellow silnylon leftovers that he used for the sleeve. I liked that so he kept it for the production model and for the sleeves of the other shelters too. Not sure that you can get the 1.1oz silnylon without some PU mixed in. The first StratoSpire prototype was in lurid red. After some unkind comments from me Henry sent me B&W pics of the next few attempts. Franco
I have a YouTube clip on Scarp tips and tricks :http://www.youtube.com/user/francodarioli?feature=mhee#p/u/7/eSTJMdjOql4
when you are there, take a look at how I set up the Contrail (a tent some find hard to do) in 50 sec.
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