The Caldera Clone

just a bit of fun...

121 to 140 of 645 messages
SD
03/11/2009 at 10:28
I fine tune with burner supports -tuna can, 1/2 tuna can or mesh .With my woodstove set up the cone is a bit higher than if just for an alky stove so I have the scope to raise and higher the burner.At the moment I have a tuna can support, light and the burner fits inside for a bit of protecton.
03/11/2009 at 17:55

> Captain ParanoiaThanks for that.

It's only my theory, Franco (my last sentence reads more 'authoritatively' than it should...).

> it was hard to come to any definitive result.

Indeed...

03/11/2009 at 18:35
Recently added a last page that prints all the parameters used in the design.  Some of them may be useful, but there's a lot of rather arcane, debug stuff that gets spat out... (77 values for the actual design, and another 14 to control the printing...)
10/11/2009 at 16:02

When GS View is open look for the 'Printer Icon' (2nd from left at the top of the page below 'Edit')

Click on that and it should open your printer settings box, choose what pages you want to print (probably pages 1 - 2, the pages with the actual template shown) and click OK.

http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/members/images/38824/Gallery/Untitled-1_0.jpg

http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/members/images/38824/Gallery/Untitled-2.jpg

Edited: 10/11/2009 at 16:09
10/11/2009 at 19:55
Make sure you've downloaded the application, and not the software source install kit...
11/11/2009 at 04:09

Cap'n,

Nice work. Now how about a stainless steel or titanium wood burning conversion. I'm buying a titanium C.Cone with conversions for  ESBIT and the wood burning Inferno setup. Alcohol just doesn't cut it for week long backpacking trips. Too weighty in the amount of fuel needed.

ESBIT is much more weight/BTU efficient. And wood - well, that's "found fuel".  But then Britian isn't noted for lots of woodlands so I understand carrying your fuel, as I must do in the American west B/C of fire danger so I carry iso-butane cartridges and a tiny stove.

 The Inferno works better than the Canadian made Bush Budy as it's easier to feed it larger sticks of wood, thus permitting you to do something else other than fed it twigs, as the Bush Buddy requires of you. Both stoves

11/11/2009 at 12:58

> gsv49w32(3).exe is not a valid win32 application. !

gsv49w32.exe is a self-installing WinZip executable.  You need to run it (double click) first to install GSView on your machine.  You obviously have three copies on your machine for some reason...

What machine/OS are you using?

I've just downloaded 4.9 from your link, and installed it perfectly happily on my WinXP Pro machine.

Because you'd failed to install GSView, your template opened up in GhostScript.  This isn't a very user-friendly tool, as it's not meant to be used standalone, except by PostScript gurus.

> "can't load DLL"

Install GhostScript.  Let it put it where it suggests.

Install GSView.  Let it put it where it suggests.

They should then work together.

If it can't find the DLL, you need to configure GSView.  Use the 'Options/Advanced Configure' menu item, and point it to wherever you've put the GhostScript DLL, e.g.

C:\Program Files\ghost\gs8.70\bin\gsdll32.dll

If you let the installs do their job, this should be set automatically.

The other option is that you've installed the GhostScript source file distribution kit, rather than the executable.  But since you can see a picture of the template, it sounds like you DO have the executable.

> it i'll stick to the draughtsmans approach

Don't forget to correct the error commonly found on YouTube and other instructions for using the draughtsman's method; measure the arc radii using the sloping sidewalls of the projected Clone, NOT the vertical heights.

Edited: 11/11/2009 at 13:06
11/11/2009 at 13:00

> Nice work. Now how about a stainless steel or titanium wood burning conversion.

Ti foil from TitaniumGoat?

11/11/2009 at 18:14

> The youtubie instructions i used produced a plastic template that fits well without adjustment so i'm gonna go with that.

It will fit the pan correctly, but it will put the pan at the wrong height; i.e. it won't build a Clone according to your design intent.  Granted, the difference will only be a few millimetres, but the flame gap won't be as you intend.  It's a simple fix in the method to get it right.

Glad to hear you got GSView going in the end; I can't say I've ever had trouble with installing or upgrading it over many years of use, but I guess things can go wrong.  You do have to install them in the right order, though, otherwise GSView can't find GhostScript to associate with when it's installed.

Thanks to R_Mac for helping, too.

11/11/2009 at 19:08

No problem TL, but all credit to CP though, I think it's a fantastic product/program/whatever thats why I'm always glad to try and help others benefit from it.

11/11/2009 at 20:00

> the youtubie i linked to does allow for burner offset

It's not that it doesn't allow for it, it's that it doesn't do the protection correctly.  It should use the red lines to measure the inner and outer radii from apex to the upper and lower edges of the 'cone side view', NOT the central black line.

I've included the proper draughtsman's construction in my latest template, for those who don't have a printer.

12/11/2009 at 12:46

Hoorah!  Another Clone!

That's using the draughtsman's method, I take it?

Is it a Primus LiTech Kettle?

<looks back to marcus' flissure posting: yes, I guess it must be...>

12/11/2009 at 18:12

I've yet to come up with a way of fitting both a pot and its frypan lid into the same Clone (the lid must, if it fits over & outside the pan, be a larger diameter than the pan it covers).

Barring a variant of the Flissure to add a little 'normal pan' extender over a 'frypan' Clone, Im not sure how best to achieve it.

Suggestions welcome...

19/11/2009 at 06:02

Increasing efficiency of the Caldera Cone idea seems like a

game of small tweeks to the cone  but then I wondered about the heat

radiated (wasted) from the lid. The sky is cold and lots of calories

gush off the lid headed for deep space.  A double wall lid seems

a simple enough creation. The lightest and most simple I thought of is a

paper towel between 2 sheets of aluminum foil -edges folded tight.

I can touch this lid without burning my fingers all through the

boil time; unlike other lids -too hot!  Theoretically it should be helping.

 

19/11/2009 at 12:53

> The sky is cold and lots of calories gush off the lid headed for deep space

Not quite for deep space, but close enough.  One day, I'll point the IR thermometer at the sky and see what temperature it sees...

I have a little disk of Thermawrap that sits on top of my Titan kettle lid, with a hole cut out for the handle.

19/11/2009 at 17:08
Have any of you guys ever made a Caldera Clone to be used on a smaller titanium mug like the MSR Titan Mug ( not the kettle )?. Wondered how a redbull sized burner and Caldera type cone would do for an MSR Titan Mug?
19/11/2009 at 18:44

Jamie

if the mug has a lip, it should fit a cone - you would need a narrow flame pattern I reckon cos of the width of the mug - Try a red bull chimney stove  - gives a narrow focussed flame. Takes about 15 mins to make.

19/11/2009 at 18:45

Twiglegs - glad it worked oot well

What the Captain says re - thermawrap on pot lid

19/11/2009 at 18:56

For something as tiny as the MSR cup (a mere 400ml), I might be tempted to use a tealight burner, or some other simple open pot (e.g. bottom of small aerosol can).

A chimney stove is also a good candidate, but even that may be too powerful for the small cup.

19/11/2009 at 21:29

Yes the Thermawrap over the lid is just right Captain. 

Per your idea I dug my  IR thermometer out of a dusty drawer and

pointed it at the sky.  -no clouds, humidity 40.- Interesting results.

http://i47.tinypic.com/2qk30v5.jpg

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