Trango Vs Charmoz

Sam Turner

27/04/2012 at 14:26

Hi guys, after some advice and experiences.

I am after a boot for the upper end of mountaineering. For most of the time it's going to get used for moving on rugged terrain and scrambling. However (if possible) i'd like it to be able to do the job on an upcoming trip to the Alps. I'm not worried about the top end of ice climbing, but a little winter mountaineering, with the definite ability to take crampons on steep ground, would be a must. Again moving on steep ground mixed with climbign and alpine style work would be my ideal area. definitely the ability to climb in them.

Unless i've got it horribly wrong, i've been looking at the La Sportiva Tango S Evo and Scarpa Charmoz as two leaders in the area. Can anyone give em a heads up or opinion on which one (if either) is the leader or where each one is better suited; i am aware the Charmoz is a B2, however i've seena lot of Mls and MRT guys using the Trangos and only heard good things.

You help and advise would be much appreciated.

cheers

Sam

ed h

27/04/2012 at 15:31

I've got the Charmoz but preferred the slightly more forgiving spranginess of the Trango's; the problem was they were not a great fit for me. So, the latter point is the one I'd emphasise...

Steady Eddie

27/04/2012 at 16:05

Ed h got it bang on, the fit is all important. Either of the 2 you selected would suit your needs, but if one fitted better than the other, then choose the best fitting pair.
Your problem will be in finding a shop that stocks other brands, as Scarpa and la Sportiva are pushed by the main outdoors chains. Aku, Boreal and Asolo make similar products, but finding a shop where you can try them on might be a problem.
The fit between the Trango and Charmoz is quite different. I couldn't wear either of them, but that is due to the shape of my feet. Personally I found the Trango a bit soft at the metatarsal flex area, the Charmoz was stiffer there.

Toadinahole

27/04/2012 at 16:08

Ed's point re. fit is fundamental. If your boots fit well, even if they're slightly less 'technical', you'll climb well. Ill-fitting boots can make your trip a miserable experience.

A well-meaning suggestion: pay particular attention to fit round the heel and minimal heel-lift when you walk; especially with stiffer boots. Also, hold onto something solid and stand on tip-toe, to simulate a steep descent ( to check your toes don't hit the end of the boot). The ramps in shops aren't steep enough for this.

Oh, and try boots on after you've been for a walk, when your feet have expanded.

Hope you enjoy the Alps.

Regards

Toad

Peter Clinch

27/04/2012 at 16:18

Another post to reinforce the importance of fit and trying in person, because it's very hard to over-state...

I really like Scarpas 'cause they fit me well. I have a friend who likes La Sportivas for a similar reason. We have remarkably dissimilar feet.

Lee Rolfe

27/04/2012 at 23:42

I had the same dilemma myself.

Found this little kinda side by side review when doing my research.

http://www.sierradescents.com/reviews/boots/scarpa/charmoz.html

Not sure if link will work but eigh

I went with the Trango Alp in the end. The lower volume suited my feet better. Bare in mind that some find the Evo suffers from premature wear. A problem the alp does not, having a harder sole and a stronger upper. The scarpa's had way less ankle flex also.

Edited: 27/04/2012 at 23:45

* Diddi * Im on Mars btw !!!

28/04/2012 at 06:03

I too have the chamoz and although they are an awesome winter boot I find they were a little too tough on my feet after a long walk in and out in the search for snow,but I did find getting the socks and lacing pattern right made them much more forgiving and love nothing better on my feet for a hard day in the snow.
You might too want to find out which is the warmer of the two for winter playing if they are not the same..

Sand Dancer

28/04/2012 at 12:39

Diddy - have you had any problem with wet feet? I'm onto my third pair (boots not feet) as the previous two were replaced (well done Scarpa) because they leaked. That aside nice comfortable boot once correctly laced to suit my feet. Only use them in winter.

Edited: 28/04/2012 at 12:40

* Diddi * Im on Mars btw !!!

28/04/2012 at 15:06

No Pops not as yet but I have really only worn them in snow with crampons and not really gotten them wet as such just snow accumilating on the boot.
sure you didn't just get sweaty feet ;0)

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