Needs to be tough, yet light (sub 450g)
I'm after a waterproof smock for a bit of everything, from summer mountaineering (scrambling/emergency use in the alps) through to winter climbing in Scotland (for those days ice climbing, when conditions aren't 'that' bad). I'm normally a size medium in most things, but have quite broad shoulders. So far I've come up with the following:
-PHD Alpamayo Smock (but I don't think that the fit is overly technical)
-Berghaus Mount Asgard Smock (maybe a bit too slim-fitting, as I have broad shoulders)
-Crux Torq Smoch (I had a Flak Jacket, and the fit was poor, with far too much material around the arms, a size down wouldn't have worked as it would have been too short in the body and arms)
-Rab Demand (dont know much about this jacket, but I'm not a fan of fixed elasticated cuffs)
If it helps, I fit a Patagonia Ascensionist Jacket (med) very well. Does anyone have any thoughts/experiences of the above?
I have the PHD Alpamayo smock and think it is the best waterproof I've ever had!
I've put a recent review on my Blog: Gordon's Off.
And, my original - first impressions of the Alpamayo is on the Blog too.
I looked at similar jackets to those you are considering and found them unable to match up to the Alpamayo: either - not the right fit, too short, too flimsy, elasticated cuffs, insubstantial hood etc.,
The Alpamayo is a proper 4 season smock.
If you are concerned about PHD sizing/fit you could ring PHD and they may be able to make sure you get the right fit.
I know I'm biased in favour of PHD, but the reason is in the quality of products!
I haven't got photos of me wearing it!
If it helps, I'm 6'2" and medium build. The smock comes down to cover my bottom (may not suit for climbing?).
The fit is pretty close with just a T shirt on - (just tried it!) But, I can fit my PHD Ultra down pullover underneath too. Some jackets/smocks I tried were just too tight/too short etc
Sizing gets complicated - different folk/different needs etc., - for me, it's perfect.
I read that it was tough too - JimboJames1972 spoke to PH about the testing of the material.
Hope this helps.
PHD have a very good form where you can fill in some measurements and enquire what size is likely to fit right, or if some sort of specially fitted thing would work better.
(Quite affordable overall if need be, with everything being custom made in the first place.).
The Mt Asgard smock is cancelled of course, but maybe a bit of stock about. Mammut's Felstrum maybe, although that somehow seems to be more into light than light and tough?!
(I have no idea though )
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