who grades boots?

4 messages
02/11/2001 at 19:00
Who decides what grade a boot is, the manufacturer or an independent group?
I bought a pair of Solomon 9's last year
which are rated at B2, a friend bought some La Sportiva boots (yellow things with a gore-tex lining) which were rated at B3, they seem to be quite a bit more flexible than mine so what's going on? Even my Solomon 8's which I bought for scrambling, are supposed to be B1 or B2 depending on which catalogue you read, seem to be almost as rigid!, (what was that phrase about worms and cans?)
05/11/2001 at 09:49
I've been skeptical on this one for a number of years. I had a pair of boots that I bought for 3 season hillwalking, I think they were by Sportiva, universally rated B0. A year later the same boot gets a new sole design with the nibbles for a step-in crampon and the boot gets upgraded to B2 with no change in flex, padding or upper boot stiffness.
05/11/2001 at 15:17
I'm pretty sure that the manufacturers grade the boots. The initial system was thought up by Brian Hall, a guide working for Scarpa, to try and clear up some of the confusion that existed before there were any gradings at all.

The idea's since been supported by manufacturers generally, but the BMC's article on crampons - see www.thebmc.co.uk - doesn't even mention crampon / boot grades.

For an outline of the system see:
http://www.scarpa.co.uk/crampon/index.html

As they say there, it's just a set of guidelines rather than an absolute rule. There are so many variables - boots soften with age, larger sizes can be more flexible than smaller ones, because the sole units are under greater load with more leverage, some crampons simply don't work with certain boots - see the Scarpa Freney for an extreme example.

The bottom line if you're buying crampons and unsure, is always to take the boots along and get the crampon fitted to them by an experienced shop where the staff know what they're doing.. If you're in doubt, be cautious - having a crampon fall off on steep ground is unnerving and can be dangerous, so only use clip-ons if you're certain they boot is designed for them.

OutdoorsMagic Editor | jon@outdoorsmagic.com 

12/11/2001 at 16:36
Anyway, Dave, on the evidence of Saturday's bog-sampling expedition, you don't need crampons, you need very, very big snow shoes... Just a few degrees cooler and it would have been alright though.

OutdoorsMagic Editor | jon@outdoorsmagic.com 

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