Bolivia-Ecuador

Which way to go

9 messages
07/03/2002 at 14:05
I've got three months. May to Mid August 2002. Looking to visit Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador for mountain biking, treking, just having a look around,and am travelling independantly with one companion.
Obviously any info, suggestions on anything related, would be good, although we are happy to make things up as we go along.
** More imporantly is best way to fly in/ fly out ** I'm thinking in La Paz out Quito, for best weather. Although one reservation is the altitude at the former, I have been high before in Nepal, but I took a while to get there.Is it possible to arrive in La Paz, run down a hill, and work your way back up a bit slower ?? Or is that just dumb.
Any comments would be much appreciated,even a completely different agenda in South America. Jon Doran are you out there, as I've seen some good info on this site from you.
Cheers..
07/03/2002 at 20:08
Reading a thread elsewhere in would seem Jon's currently in the Alps, lucky sod. The site seems to have been pretty active in his absence though.

Regarding South America, not been to Bolivia myself but would reckon that flying in to La Paz at ~ 14,000 takes some adjusting to as you say.

Quito's a surprisingly underrated place, and must things in Ecuador aren't too far away. There's plenty to do there, I went on a organised trek several yrs ago that included Cotopaxi. Tagged on a couple of days either side, and managed to arrange things on spec - White Water Rafting, Equator visit, mtn biking, local footy match.

Could check out the Lonely Planet Web site for recent, reports and contacts.

Starting in Quito you'd be able to work your way south, through Peru down to Bolivia. Cuzco's an obvious must do in Peru, could take the train to Puno by Lake Titicata (spelling's wrong i know!) and bus to Bolivia from there I'd guess.

Doubt you'd feel like running after flying in to La Paz btw.

Enjoy have fun, I'm jealous.
11/03/2002 at 15:43
Flew into La Paz from London with 80kg of expedition kit.

Pulling the lot into a taxi caused 12 hours of vomiting, killer headache. I think this was due to over excitement caused by lightheadness.

As a measure, it took about 3 days before we could walk up the main street (a gentle incline) whilst eating croissants.

11/03/2002 at 16:11
First, take the South American Handbook rather than the LPlanet I reckon. In strict acclimatisation terms, it's better to go Quito then La Paz, you'll have a stinking headache for a few days if you land at 4100 metres from sea level, but people do it all the time. The city itself is between about 3600 metres and 3900 metres and it doesn't help that most of it is on the sides of a bowl so you have to walk up it... Incidentally, they've had hidous floods there recently.

I guess it depends on how you view discomfort. When you do arrive, take it very, very easy. Drink lots of water. Don't rush around. Don't hit the alcohol and you should be okay within four or five days, though not properly acclimatised.

May is a bit early for trekking or climbing in Bolivia I think, but it all depends on what you're planning to do and where. The dry season usually starts in June, but then the weather's so variable these days that it's hard to know. I guess you're thinking of travelling overland through Peru and finishing in Ecuador, which makes sense, though there's nothing particularly wrong with doing it the other way round either.

Quito's at about 2600 metres, so much less of a shock when you arrive. In a way it make sense to go to Ecuador first. The trekking isn't anything like as impressive as in Peru or Bolivia, partly because the mountains tend to be isolated volcanoes surrounded by paramo, sort of high altitude scrub. It is good for climbing easy, non-technical snow peaks though, something like Cotopaxi with a guide is very, very feasible and beautiful too. Safari in Quito - www.safari.com.ec - is a good starting point for a reliable, professional guide.

From there you could travel down by bus through Peru, check out the Cordillera Blanca and the Huayhuash before heading on south to Cuzco. You have to do the Inca Trail, though it's a bit of a cliche, it's amazing. The Ausangate Circuit' is wilder, higher and quieter, but an amazing walk around a really beautiful mountain area.

From there, Bolivia. I can recommend the Illampu Circuit out of Yossi Brain's Bolivian trekking guide, but there's loads more to do there. You can't really go wrong. One of the advantages of doing it this way round is that it'll be a little warmer at altitude in Bolivia when you get there. Early in the winter it can be really cold.

Other stuff? The South American Explorers Club - www.samexplo.org - is a good information resource and has club houses in Lima, Quito and Cuzco, but not in Bolivia, though it has information on the area - whether it's worth it is a tough one to call, depends how much you're going to use it. Not sure what membership is these days. The club houses are good places to chill.

At any rate, I'm thinking of heading out to Peru in July if I can - Swis where are you? - so I might even see you down there. Oh, learn some Spanish before you go. It will make your life massively easier.


OutdoorsMagic Editor | jon@outdoorsmagic.com 

11/03/2002 at 16:16
I think, what I was trying to say, is that in some ways going to Quito first makes more sense. You might even want to confine yourself to Peru and Bolivia and perhaps even fly in and out of Lima, which would probably be cheaper.

OutdoorsMagic Editor | jon@outdoorsmagic.com 

11/03/2002 at 18:42
Ok. Cheers for your comments Lads. My mate was keen to book, so we sorted out flights last Friday. In La Paz/ out of Quito, with Trailfinders, and am currently trying to borrow a hyperbaric chamber for a few months. Reading your comments now, it would seem North to South, might have been sensible. I was looking at the weather which suggested the rains cleared from the South, bringing cooler temperatures, anyway, as you say, its changable at this time of year. Suggested routes info, was very useful Jon, once acclimatised the pair of us would be up for as much adventure in the mountains as possible. I'd loved to hire gear/ get a guide and do an easy snow climb, but I appreciate its not the most sensible place for learning.Anyway, for extended trips in the Highlands is it worth taking a tent/ stove, and then carrying food ? Or is it not neccessary to stray from civilisation.
Finally Galapogos - anybody been ?
The books say go if you are a wildlife freak, as it's comparably v. expensive. Now I'm not sure that's me, but its a bit hard to say until you try it, I guess. I love snorkelling. Any thoughts ? In my head I'm thinking it's a must see.
Any info would be great.
Cheers Jerome
12/03/2002 at 07:21
Jerome, Maria, my partner, went to the Galapogos and was totally blown away by the experience. It's not cheap, but if you like wildlife and snorkelling (she does) it's a must do. If you can afford it and have the time, do it. See Safari in Quito (again) for a reliable booking service. You can save a little by booking in Ecuador, but not that much. The quality of the boat is vital - they vary a lot.

Tent and stove - depends on the route, but for something like the Illampu Circuit or Ausangate, it's vital. It'll give you a lot more flexibility, though a bit more to carry. Personally I'd take one. Also some sort of water-purifying kit, even if it's only iodine crystals. Best stove is still probably the MSR XGK burning local petrol. Gas is expensive and hard to find, ditto white gas / Coleman fuel. Dragonflys tend to clog on the impurities, so don't bother with them. Wisperlites are okay, but the XGK is definitely a better bet.



Other stuff? There are some very 'do-able' snow climbs in Bolivia and a load of guides around too, though the quality of the locals is variable - lots of companies on a street called Sagarnaga, which is also the place to buy your dried llama foetus... Both Illimani and Huayana Potosi are straightforward. You can hire plastic boots and hardware locally. Incidentally, Safari do a very good value glacier school in Ecuador, but that's a bit late on for you. There's also very feasible stuff in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru and the quality of local guides, is, I think, more even. They're trained by the UIAGM.

Ishinca or Pisco are classic acclimatisation peaks and pretty easy in technical terms with awesome views. The trek through the Santa Cruz valley is also amazing... I think I'm going to be booking tickets myself soon at this rate...

Cheers

Jon


OutdoorsMagic Editor | jon@outdoorsmagic.com 

13/03/2002 at 08:53
Ok Jon. Appreciate your comments. It's now a case of avoiding the pub, and compressing a 'learn spanish in three months' course into a month and a half.
Have a good time in Peru.
Cheers

Jerome
13/03/2002 at 09:39
Have good one and watch out for Sal in May, she should apparently be wandering around Peru. Hasta luego!

Juan

OutdoorsMagic Editor | jon@outdoorsmagic.com 

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