Andrew - brilliant! I'd always enjoyed your writings in TGO - quite inspirational. So keep it up - looking fwd to reading what the gunshots might have been. Had a very slightly similar experience on a bike ride in Albania 3 years ago - makes you jump when you are already in a potentially dodgy area. In this case, someone had crept up behind us while we were having lunch just off the Kukes Pass. Two barrels were loosed off just over our heads - at a pigeon on the ground just in front of us! Given the Foreign Office warnings about the place, land mines, bandits and all, it was a little un-nerving at the time...