Ideas for a weeklong tourist triip to Geneva/Alps

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09/05/2012 at 10:54
I want to spend a week in the Alps, probably flying into Geneva.

It would be nice to catch a stage of the tour de France whilst we're there, but as we've never been before some recommendations on other places to go would be appreciated!

Is it easy to find campsites and hostels?

We probably won't want to spend every day walking so touristy suggestions would be great!

I know this is a bit vague but I've never been to the Alps before
09/05/2012 at 12:04

I don't know the Alps around Geneva that well but there is plenty to do!

First, from Geneva you have the option of staying in France or Switzerland (CH). France is obviously cheaper. And if you stay in Ferney-Voltaire or Annemasse in France you have public transport into Geneva. 

You have access to both the Alps or the Jura mountains. Jura is lovely for hiking in the summer, but are not as spectacular as the Alps. Having said that you have a great view across to the Alps. 

You can travel to Chamonix reasonably easily. 

In CH, the Canton (countuy) of Valais (Wallis) is easily accissible by train from Geneva in a couple of hours and there is mountain galore! More than can be put in this post. Obvious places to visit include Zermatt (hike up to see the Matterhorn), Saas Fe, Leukerbad (hot springs) and impressive mountains (including some hard Via Feratta), Aletsch glacier. All are reachable by public transport from Geneva but if you are planning on doing longer walks you might want to look into staying in a small hotel, b&b or camp site. 

All of Switzerland can be reached by rail from Geneva so check the forecast! Often you will have great weather on one side of the alps and lousy weather on the other so you can usually hunt out good weather.

In Geneva, the old town is worht visiting. The University park with the statues of the reformers (fathers of pretestantism if you are interested in that sort of thing) is worth a visit. A stroll around the lake is nice. Take a trip with the paddle steamer on lake Geneva (or one of the other lakes in CH: Lake Luzern is very very nice!). Take boat to Yvoire in France (old town with some good food, not too big so easily visited in a day). You should sample the local fish if you have a chance (filet de perche). Very yum! Oh and thepub Brasseur (Brewer) at the train station makes cracking beer and food to go with it. A 5L tower of beer outside in the summer is hard to beat!

OK, that's a quick over-view. If you want more details on anything let me know and I can suggest more places to visit in CH or more details 

Edited: 09/05/2012 at 12:05
09/05/2012 at 13:02
Thanks Nick some fantastic ideas there! Really helpful indeed!

Any idea how far away the Eiger is from Geneva? I wouldn't mind a trip on the mountain train there
09/05/2012 at 13:13

It is probably doable in a long day, you have to get the train to Kleine Scheidegg which is below the Eiger. You can get there in just over 4 hours. The rail way you refer to is to the Jungfraujoch, The Top of Europe. It is very nice, but pricy! There is of course also the Eiger Trail which runs below the north face and takes only a couple of hours I think (I haven't done it, but it featured on OM last summer I think).

The railway website www.sbb.ch is good for planning your trips as you can put in your departure and desitnation and you will get an ETA and the breakdown of the route, where to change, what type of transport (i.e. bus, train, boat) etc. 

Also, if you are going to be travelling by rail a lot in CH I would highly recommend you look at some of the deals you get for travelling by rail: http://www.swisstravelsystem.ch/en/ You can save A LOT of money that way.

http://www.sbb.ch/en/leisure-holidays/holidays--short-breaks-in-switzerland/scenic-trains.html Link to some of the scenic train trips possible. Great for a relaxing day out for seeing the mountains from a panoramic, air-conditioned train carriage! Glacier Express is very very good (but I did it in winter for my birthday!). 

09/05/2012 at 14:15
Lots of good walks around the Aig. Rouges in the Chamonix valley. If it's good weather get the telepherique up to the summit of the Midi. Don't bother if there are no views. Note it's eye wateringly expensive for a single trip. Make sure you get there before 9:00am if you don't want to be at the back of 10 coach loads of Jap tourists.

If you stay in the Cham valley for a few days it's worth getting a pass, which lets you use all the buses and telepheriques. This allows you to get up to the good walking country without the preliminary 3,000ft trudge through the forest.
09/05/2012 at 14:19
Really really greatful for such great advise - thank you

Who makes good maps for these areas? I'm guessing OS don't do them?
09/05/2012 at 14:26

Swiss topo provide maps and can be downloaded for GPS devices.

http://www.swisstopo.admin.ch/internet/swisstopo/en/tools/what_where/mapsearch.html

That link will take you to the Swiss equivalent of OS and a map you can zoom in on to find out which map you need. You can then order from the website, search online on amazon or buy them in a book shop in Geneva.

09/05/2012 at 19:59

Really like the idea of going to Zermatt. Looks like the train from Geneva will cost a bit.

Do you know if there's anywhere good to explore for a couple of days over the other side of the border in France? The Tour De France is going to Bellegarde-sur-Valserine so would possibly travel there from Geneva at the beginning of the week before heading to Zermatt or similar

Edited: 09/05/2012 at 20:50
09/05/2012 at 20:54
Any of the suggested valleys are good places to start. From my own experience:

Chamonix - anywhere along the valley from Les Houches to Argentiere. You can go through the Mt Blanc tunnel to Italy.

Public transport is generally good. However, if you hire a car get one from the Swiss side of the Geneva airport and you get all the required Carnets for travelling in CH, plus you can take the car to France and Italy.

You can't drive all the way to Zermatt, you have to park in the town below, whose name escapes me now. Being CH it's expensive. You can camp on top of the railway tunnel into Zermatt, but don't tell anyone I told you There is one camp site in Zermatt, which is basic but expensive.

There are various camp sites in Courmayeur (Italian side of Mt Blanc tunnel). Lots of camp sites of various quality and expense in the Chamonix valley.

I would suggest at least one night in a hut. If you are happy scrambling over the Mer de Glace and climbing several iron ladders over a huge drop the Couvercle Hut is spectacular. The Albert Premiere is an easy walk, but will probably be rammed to the rafters.
09/05/2012 at 21:05

Again, great info thanks! Having looked at my finances, I should probably try and make this as cheap as possible! Is Zermatt/Courmayeur an expensive place to get to?

Are there any places with direct flights or trains from UK/Paris that have enough to do nearby without expensive train transfers?

09/05/2012 at 21:05
Zermatt car park is in Tasch. Theres a small but pleasant campsite in zermatt just north of the train station.

For chamonix valley there's about a doze minibus companies offering transfers to/from Geneva for about E30 per person each way. Once in the valley the public transport is excellent. There's lots of campsites, tho from mid July to mid August you might want to book.

For somewhere less touristy I'd suggest the Ecrin, eg La Berarde is very nice. Less developed so harder to get to, but nice once you're there and also fairly near alpe d'huez if you want to see that stage. La berarde has an excellent campsite.
Edited: 09/05/2012 at 21:06
09/05/2012 at 21:10

There's a lot you could do in a week from Geneva. The city itself is well worth wandering around on foot, and you could spend a day or two messing about on the lake steamers, spending a couple of hours at every town and village on the timetable. You could follow both initial spurs of the GR5, first from Thonon les Bains to Chevenoz, Chevenoz to Chapelle d'Abondance, then double back from Chapelle d'Abondance to St Gingolph, putting you back onto the lake to return to Geneva.

Having said all that, you really want to be talking to Moonlight Shadow, as he's a native of those parts.

09/05/2012 at 22:46

Super. Will have to see if the girlfriend is happy with what Geneva has to offer!

Looking at the cheapest way to get to Geneva from Exeter. Flights from Bristol for the second weekend in July are currenly about £140 return. I doubt I'm gonna find a similar price for travelling by train as always wanted to use the tgv but on a budget!

10/05/2012 at 07:09
There was a thread on UKC a while ago about getting to Chamonix via train. When I have done it in the past, I went from Gare du Nord (Paris). Depending on which train you get, you will need to change at least once. It's a pleasant journey, but it may be cheaper to fly when you factor in the cost of getting to London and then to Paris.

If you really want to save a few quid and suffer in the process, get the bus. This was run by the BMC, but I think that Eurolines now run it. It takes 24hrs from Victoria coach station. Be prepared for a very uncomfortable journey However, they may have upgraded the coaches since I last used it in the 1980's.
10/05/2012 at 07:18
geekinthesticks wrote (see)
If you really want to save a few quid and suffer in the process, get the bus... Be prepared for a very uncomfortable journey.

Hmmm... sounds as though the bus ride has improved somewhat!

Seriously, though, it's more than most people would want to endure. It runs through the night, and even if you wanted to try and sleep on-board, it's not exactly a direct service and at some stops you have to get off the bus. I did it once, and I wouldn't do it again, unless the alternative was to crawl to Chamonix over shards of broken glass.

10/05/2012 at 10:22
C S 3 wrote (see)

Really like the idea of going to Zermatt. Looks like the train from Geneva will cost a bit.

Do you know if there's anywhere good to explore for a couple of days over the other side of the border in France? The Tour De France is going to Bellegarde-sur-Valserine so would possibly travel there from Geneva at the beginning of the week before heading to Zermatt or similar

I used to live in Gex (France, west side of Geneva on the Jura, about 45 minutes from Bellegarde. There is not much to do in Bellegarde, except for maybe visit Fort l'Ecluse an old fort that lies pretty spectacularly.

Here is a link to a walk around there: http://randomassif.kazeo.com/01-ain/bellegarde-sur-valserine-fort-l-ecluse,a343293.html.

There is a lot of paths that go along the back of the Jura around there. It is all a huge nature reserve so no camping, no fires, take all your litter with you etc etc. IF you are ridiculously lucky you can see lynx and capercaillies. Its covered in forest towards Belgarde,  but if you head further towards Col de la Fausille you can get some nice walking there. Note you will need a car. There is a bus (or used to be) from Ferney to Bellegarde but it is at odd hours and infrequent. There is also a bus from Geneva train station to Ferney in France (the F line) and there is also one that runs to  Meyrin where CERN is (the museum is worth a rainy day!) and into France there. But, if you are going into France, rent a car. It will be a lot easier. 

13/05/2012 at 12:57

Thanks all, the girlfriend is happy with Geneva so expect more questions nearer the time!

If we camp in Geneva and Zermatt, what rating sleeping bag would we need?

13/05/2012 at 13:10
You could do a week on the Tour of the Vanoise [good refuges all the way around]going by train from Geneva to Modane catching the Tour de France going over Col D'Isere at Bonneval Sur Arc . 
20/05/2012 at 12:21
Well the flights are booked! A couple of questions....

The Jungfrau railway looks great particularly the high altitude trip. How far from Zermatt is this section?

We're also thinking of going to Milan for the day from Zermatt, I dont suppose the train takes the route of the glacier express via St Moritz? It looks amazing!
21/05/2012 at 09:26

Hi CS3, the Jungfrau railway is not that far from Zermatt as the crow flies... but there are some big mountains in between. It will take you about 3 hrs to get there, either by train or by car. You can take the car on the train through the moutains (Loetschberg Tunnel) so you will need to set out yearly... or you go the day before and camp at Kleine Scheidegg or something like that.

As for going to Milan(o), I don't think the train goes the same route as the Glacier Express. It would be a longer way. According to www.cff.ch the train goes via Domodossola in Italy. The Glacier Express take a full day. It is well worth it though. If you get a 1st Class ticket you have the option of having a nice 3-course meal served whilst you drive. It will be a fair amount more though and the view will be just the same as if you pack a lunch. 

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