Jebel Toubkal - boots and crampons?

8 messages
22/01/2012 at 11:34

Going on an 8 day trek in March which finishes with ascent of Toubkal.

I know we need ice axe and crampons but wondering if anyone who may hve been there at that time of year can be more specific?

Will my Grivel G10 crampons be enough or should I be thinking 12 points?

If I wear my G10s would I be ok in my leather Meindl 3 season boots (semi rigid sole suitable for G10)  or would I be better in my Scarpa Mantas (which would not be so great on the trekking lower down the valley).  Should I try to bring both pairs boots or is that overkill?!

And on to ice axe, do you think my Grivel Munro axe would be sufficient?

 Thanks for any advice on the above and indeed on any other tips you might be able of offer.

Cheers!

23/01/2012 at 18:56
I did it January two years ago, when it will have been much colder, and there was a lot of snow and ice - I used 10 pointer crampons, Brasher boots which were just B1, and walker's ice axe without problems. I noted the kit list for my trip omitted helmet, though I took mine and was glad to have it. There was a lot of bum-sliding to get off mountains! Also there is next to no heating in the refuge - which was baltic; have fun (I did)!
23/01/2012 at 19:47
I managed fine with 10 points and bendy boots a few Christmases ago. The slopes are quite steep, but not so steep that you'll need to be kicking front points into ice. It's also quite rocky, so even a short slip and fall would probably result in hitting rocks if you don't self-arrest very quickly. As to the refuge... yes... it's very cold inside. The only real heat comes from the kitchen, and a log fire in the common room. You can buy wood for the fire, but you won't be able to sleep by the dying embers as that's generally where all the guides and porters hunker down for the night, while their clients shiver upstairs. It goes without saying that when there's snow and ice outside... having a shower is like being pelted by hailstones.
23/01/2012 at 20:30
Just got back - 10 points will be fine, poles are more use on the south route as it's a bit of a motorway, the path in the snow was a foot wide and nice and flat. The bottom hut has a new log burner - 20 odd degrees every evening and logs are free, didn't bother with the top hut. Shower was painful - hot then cold and no heating at all out there.
Lots of people summiting in trainers, jeans and no crampons but not to be recommended. I didn't bother with an axe the third time up there.
24/01/2012 at 13:09
Agree with comments above.  I did it very early May a few years ago and am sure that B1s and 10 poiters would be fine.  I used SLs, which I find are a superb all-round boot.  Interestigly, the new Mantas are exactly the same weight, and very comfortable too, and easy to walk in with their 'rockered' sole.
24/01/2012 at 19:48
Thankyou everyone for your responses.
24/01/2012 at 20:15

I've done Toubkal in May and not needed crampons or even boots.

Depends on whether it is a hard winter or not.

15/05/2012 at 20:19
Hi Mountainlesely,

I saw you were going to Cotopaxi with Exodus last year, i have booked my trip for the summer and wanted to know what you thought of it and any help with kit. Are plastic boots really needed??

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