A quick follow up to confirm that it is still possible to get permits from Grazalema but only in advance as the issuing office in El Bosque will only Fax them through after 14.00H. We had to go to El Bosque the day before our walk and then had to fill in an application at the Tourist Office and carry it across town to the Technical Office in order to receive our permit (Spanish bureaucracy at its best). The whole tedious procedure was well worth the effort, however, as the descent into the gorge was spectacular.
Trip report here
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