Trekking in Nepal

Is it safe to go?

7 messages
07/02/2005 at 17:29
Has anybody here recently returned from Nepal? I am due to go in 4 weeks but after last week's coup, I am thinking about cancelling my ticket if it is not safe to go. The plan is to trek the Annapurna Circuit. Previously, if a trekker did meet any Maorists, they just had to pay a 'donation' and then continue with their hike... It was generally viewed that the tourists were safe to go. If anybody can give any real comment, I would be very grateful.
07/02/2005 at 20:59
Anita I'd check the Lonely Planet site as well on their forums ( can't remember the name of them something tree), and also with the tour company (if you are going with one) you are going with.
07/02/2005 at 22:30
Go on the foreign office website for official advice or Teletext (old style on BBC2). Updated daily
08/02/2005 at 09:28
The Lonely Planet website is http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/. My understanding is that the coup hasn't changed the overall risk of going to Nepal a great deal.
08/02/2005 at 09:42
Thanks everybody, had checked all those sites. I think Duncan is right, the overall risk to tourists hasn't changed. Will probably still go then.
08/02/2005 at 13:10
Hi Anita, I got back in mid December from doing the Annapurna Circuit. We didn't meet a single Maouist until Gorephani and Poon Hill, as we were trekking late in the season and most had gone back to thier own areas. They took the normal 1000 rupee donation (we didn't quibble - we'd met an Israeli idiot who'd came close to trouble when he refused to pay them). They were fine and will leave you alone or talk to you about thier cause if you show interest. The west side of the circuit is much more heavily Maouist populated, Beni (west of Pokhara) is totally Maoist controlled.

However, there are a lot of police and army roadblocks on the road between Pokhara and Kathmandu, and that route is a pain in the ass to travel currently, as it takes approx 11 hours to do it now rather than 7. You have to keep getting off the bus for armed police checks and walking up through the checkpoints so they can see your passport. This causes massive traffic jams. Also, they occasionslly commandeer your bus for transport so you find yourself squashed into your seat by 18/20 armed police or army guys all carrying sub machine guns. It is a bit scary but they won't cause you any trouble. For them it's an easy way to get from one place to another as their own vehicles get shot at by Maouist groups. I would suggest flying internally if you can, as it's less hassle at the moment. However, the bus journey is a good adventure if you are in the mood for one. Be prepared for the Nepali's incredible driving skills - NOT!! If you fly, avoid Royal Nepali Airlines, they are very unreliable.

Finally, it's been one of the coldest winters they've had in the AP Circuit area for a while. When we went over the Thorong La it was minus 30 degrees. Flippin cold!! I took really good thermal underwear thinking I wouldn't need it, I'm bloody glad i did take it as at one point, it didn't come off me for 5 days. My sleeping bag wasn't quite warm enough and it goes down to minus 10. I eventually found a fleece liner for it in Manang which made a lot of difference.

It's the most amazing walk in the world, so have a wonderful time.

If you want any more info or would like to chat about it at all, email me. But don't not go, unless the foreign office/embassy tell you not to. The Maouists do leave tourists alone, as they provide income for the hill people. But don't travel alone - I personally don't think it's safe for women on their own at the moment. I wanted to walk the whole circuit on my own but I'm glad I took a porter guide now. For a whole load of reasons.

Good luck and enjoy.

<spits with demented jealousy>



08/02/2005 at 14:15
Thanks for message - that is very helpful. I think we'll probably still go if it's safe for tourists - obviously wouldn't if I thought we'd get shot! I've actually done a lot of trekking in Nepal, including twice around the AP Circuit in 1996 and 1994, so I've got a feel for the country and people and that's why I'm returning because I love it so much.

Will definitely fly back from Pokhara to Kathmandu but as for getting to Besisahar, will either get a bus or perhaps a taxi if it's a safer option. In reality it's probably only £35 but you lose the value of money in Nepal...

You've convinced me to buy a new sleepbag!

May hire a guide for safety then.

Big thanks to you!
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