Scrambling gives me the willies

Join me in admitting you're a WUSS

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27/03/2002 at 13:10
Did the Llechog Ridge scramble yesterday.

When I first got to it I though 'uh oh'. The start is a Grade 2 tower and despite sitting and looking at it for ages I came to the conclusion of 'No ******* way'. I mean I probably could've climbed it jus' fine but thought that I might not be able to - then falling off and going SPLAT - sort of put me off. A lot.

So I wondered up onto the longer Grade 1 bit. I was shaky starting on that as well but once warmed up and the adrenaline started flowing I really enjoyed it and even did the same bits twice or searched out the trickier lines, though nothing was exposed as the starting tower.

Basically I gibber at anything harder than Grade 1.

Are you as soft as me? What's the hardest scramble you've ever done?
27/03/2002 at 13:45
duno. striding edge when i was a wee lad. the last was prob a slippy slidey, wet cold greasey jakes rake
27/03/2002 at 13:45
tho that wernt that hard. havent really done anything thats scared me. (yet)
27/03/2002 at 13:57
Ahhh, 'If you haven't failed you haven't challenged yourself'.

If you want to do the 3,000ers you'll have to face Crib Goch. That's a lovely scramble, though there's a hell of a drop at one point, though you'd really have to try to actually fall off.
27/03/2002 at 13:59
nope but i live in a field with no car.....
27/03/2002 at 14:17
Clogwyn y Person arrete on Snowdon (see the article somewhere on the site...) That's quite interesting, or at least the first bit when you're 30 metres off the ground and it starts to get steep and the holds really aren't as big as they ought to be.

I'm always wary of anything graded two or above. Some are fine, others are horrors, and rain can make harder scrambles into a nightmare. Grade one stuff is generally straightforward.

OutdoorsMagic Editor | jon@outdoorsmagic.com 

27/03/2002 at 14:21
... except with added verglas.

OutdoorsMagic Editor | jon@outdoorsmagic.com 

27/03/2002 at 14:22
I love Steve Ahstons guide book - quote from the intro:

'An experienced all-round scrambler is a rare beast, and also lucky to be alive'

From same book some where else:

'No mountain is worth your life'

Inspiring stuff
27/03/2002 at 19:44
Chasm route on Glyder Fach is "interesting", it's a grade 3 scrambling/pot-holing route, it starts in the gully with a move that's supposed to be grade 1 but I've seen experienced climbers rope up for it, there's only one way to do it, if you don't work it out, yer stuffed!
27/03/2002 at 20:03
I think Bristly Ridge was the most scared I have been.

Easy Gully (Harrison Stickle) in the snow and stuff was also a bit "hairy"!
27/03/2002 at 20:11
btw it should've read 'could've climbed it jus fine but *THE* thought that I might not be able to - then falling off and going SPLAT - sort of put me off. A lot.'

Grade 1 = fun

Grade 2 = new pants when I get home. I don't do these

Grade 3 = mmm jejes ggg bi mmm scared mmms ddd
27/03/2002 at 20:14
Come on whose going to show us up by telling us they do Grade 3s without a rope all the time?
27/03/2002 at 23:05
Well the answer is that 'proper' rock climbers call v. diffs or V S a 'scramble' and call grade 3s a 'walk'.

Hmmm. I'm married to a climber and we have differences of opinion on what constitutes a 'climb' and what is 'easy'.
27/03/2002 at 23:13
Just for the record:

Grade 1 scramble = 'Easy' rock climb

Grade 2 = Mod-ish

Grade 3 = Diff-ish

Easy, Mod and to some extent Diffs are climbing grades that are no longer used as climbers and equipment has got far better. The other end of teh scale has gone mental with Extreme 10 the hardest now!

The thing about scrambling is that it's done with no protection, or at most very little ie. just short rope, a few slings, maybe a few nuts, with no harnesses, or it does just become easy rock climbing. Therefore it's far more dangerous than any climb till you reach the mental E grades - you know, the type where any pro is more 'pyschological' than actually effective!
29/03/2002 at 14:43
A Grade 3 scramble is actually supposed to be easier than a Moderate rock climb overall, though in practice they often have short passages of maybe 3 or 4 moves of climbing up to around Severe. Unfortunately this isn't always obvious from the guide book or from inspection, so you have to be prepared for more difficulties than the overall grade would suggest.

A classic example is one of my faves, Cneifon Arete, which starts, according to the guidebook, with about 20ft of 'steep climbing on good holds'; it's actually a pitch of V.Diff on some of the most polished holds I've ever seen.

I don't think anyone would advise scrambling without protection where the consequences of a fall could be severe, regardless of grade. It may appear from a distance that scramblers aren't placing any protection, but in practice they may be placing running belays, which is often all that's necessary to hold a fall on typical scrambling ground. Anyone who doesn't is either confident or stupid, and in either case probably not a good example for a novice to follow.
31/03/2002 at 10:31
Anyone done Main Gully on Glyder Fach, Grade 1, 2 stars in Steve Ashton's Scrambles in Snowdonia?

Sounds tempting but also seems perilously close to several harder routes which I wouldn't want to blunder onto.

One of my faves is Seniors Ridge above Idwal Slabs, which Ashton is pretty dismissive of, but I enjoyed a lot in the snow last winter.
31/03/2002 at 22:57
Joan, what a change!

Anyway, Crib Goch scared the proverbial sh*t out of me! Going up I was fine. I don't mind the scrambling up. It's the ridge you have to go along to get off it that scared me. I did it (I wouldn't go back down Crib Goch!), but for about 15 minutes, I was trying to keep three points of contact with the rock. That's the thing you don't want to do on a ridge. You need to stand up, and keep balanced.
The worst position for the body is part way between foetal position (or the ape kind of knuckles-dragging-on-the-floor stance, and standing. Trying to get between them is sh*t scary, but once you've stood up, then you feel fine.
31/03/2002 at 23:49
Yeah it's weird, walk along a rough path at ground level and you never trip up, as soon as there happens to be a big drop on one side or the other you irrationally go all funny.

I tried to convert scrambling grades to climbing grades earlier and I was a bit off. Grade 3s can be anything from mod to near v diff as Joan points out, but the real point is that scrambling is poorly protected or not at all. Simply rope-round-a-spike belays with the rope tied straight round your waist; not a nice way to take a fall.

Of course this is how rock climbing started, so back then (pretty much anytime pre WWII) a diff really was bloody difficult & dangerous, but as gear and techniques improved it became relatively easier and nowadays a diff grade climb is very easy.

But scramblers are more like early rock climbers so applying modern grades to scrambling doesn't really work. OK I just did but as Fat Boy Slim said What the ****

Jeannie a 'proper' rock climber wouldn't call a VD a scramble, some cocky good ones (the type who write ote, not exactly representative) might but the vast majority of climbers only climb to about HVS.
31/03/2002 at 23:57
I was trying to be a Devil's advocate there.
;0)

A lot depends on the rock anyway. A VDiff on Yorkshire Gritstone is VVV diff for me!

Is it OTE where it only becomes an VS when the gradient becomes an overhang?

(there I go again)
01/04/2002 at 14:54
I can trip up over a blade of grass, me!

However, the concentration required doing a scramble certainly sharpens the mind and I generally am more sure footed when scrambling than on a level path!
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