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Clear And Present Grangers...

We dropped by to see the guys at outdoor gear care experts Grangers to clear up some of the confusion over looking after your expensive kit. To wash, or not to wash... The kit that is.


Posted: 14 May 2003
by Jon

Funny stuff outdoor gear. If you're anything like us, your waterproof breathable shell clothing and kit probably cost more than the rest of your wardrobe put together, but the sad reality is that a lot of us simply don't know how to clean and maintain our outdoor gear.

Half of us simply chuck it in the machine with everything else, cross our fingers and hope for the best while the other half are so frightened of ruining it that we don't wash it at all. Neither option, as it happens, is a particularly good idea.

But what should you be doing? We're planning an online care guide which'll be appearing in the near future, but as a starter we dropped in to see the high priests of gear laundry at Grangers to find out what makes them tick and get to the bottom of a few soapy myths and legends.


The Company Based over in Alfreton, Derbyshire on the fringes of the Peak District, Grangers are one of the UK's major producers of outdoor clothing and footwear care products. What's more they manufacture and package their products on site in the UK.

The mixing room is a seething, bubbling pile of cauldrons pumping out everything from Cherry Blossom shoe polish - 'you have to get the temperature spot on or it simply sets solid in the pipes' - to the latest high tech re-proofing treatments approved by Gore-Tex.

Oh yeah, Grangers manufactures not only its own range of care products and cleaners, but also turns out a swathe of 'own brand' product for the likes of Meindl, Brasher and well, you name it. The facility is piled high with alternative labels. To give you and idea of the sort of scale they operate on, the company produces half a ton of Cherry Blossom shoe polish (which it also owns) every day.

More relevant to the average outdoor user, Grangers products are tested and recommended for use with Gore-Tex, the only care product in the UK that is.


On-Site Lab It's clear Grangers takes its development and testing seriously. There's a small on-site laboratory where the company boffins develop and assess new products as well as carrying out quality control tests on every batch of cleaner and proofer made in the factory next door.

It's not a grand facility, and disarmingly, standing in the corner are two bog standard domestic washer driers rather than the industrial appliances you might explain. 'We use them'' explains BMX-ing technical man Richard Randall, ' because that's what the customer has, so that's the environment it has to work in.

And if you've ever wondered how water repellancy's tested, the ISO test machine is there in the corner. It's a simple device, treated fabric's stretched over an opening and water sprays onto it at a pre-determined rate at 45 degrees. The level of saturation and beading's compared to a chart and the water-repellancy of the fabric's rated accordingly. Simple, so now you know.

There's are other tests too and an oven running at 37 degrees C which accelerates reactions and allows the techies to see whether their treatments will still be doing the job after three years sitting on a shelf.


The Water Repellancy Thing One of the most confusing aspects of shell clothing is 're-proofing'. New jackets are made from a fabric which has had a DWR (Durable Water Repellancy) treatment applied as part of the manufacturing process. It's this that makes rain bead and run off on contact with the surface of the fabric.

The original treatment is a fluorochemical and Grangers say that their's is the only aftermarket pure fluoro DWR treatment on the market and it took them three years to develop. With use the original treatment will wear off and needs to be restored, here's a few points worth noting:

? commercial detergents contain chemicals - caustics, enzymes, wetting and brightening agents - that strip the DWR from the fabric and leave a residue behind that take several washes to shift, though it's impossible to remove completely. It would take 15 rinses in straight water to shift most of it, though a technical, soap-based cleaner will accelerate the process.

? dirt compromises DWR as well by attracting water so washing in the right cleaner is good.

? for cleaning you need either pure soap flakes or a technical soap-based cleaner like Grangers Extreme Cleaner or Extreme Cleaner Plus which will leave the DWR intact.

? using pure soap, the DWR treatment should last around ten washes or so and you shouldn't have to apply heat to keep it working.


The Heat Thing If you reapply the DWR, you'll need to expose the fabric to heat to activate the fluorochemicals. You can either tumble dry the garment at a low temperature for around an hour or use an iron carefully, again at a low temperature.

You can use either spray or wash-in treatments, but pay special attention to cuffs, collars, seams, shoulders and elbows which are major wear areas.


The Machine Thing If you're using a washing machine, you need to remove all detergent residue first. Take out the detergent dispenser tray and clean off caked on detergent deposits. Look under the tray as well. Then run two rinse cycles through the machine before washing with the technical cleaner or applying a wash-in DWR.

Grangers say that wash balls are a waste of time, it's better to simpy add the cleaner to the detergent tray where it will mix thoroughly with incoming water. So now you know.


The Soft Shell Thing Like waterproofs, most soft shells come with a DWR finish and should be washed in pure soap or a technical cleaner like Extreme Cleaner or equivalent. You should be able to re-apply DWR treatment as with 'hard shells' but again, check the manufacturer's care instructions before incinerating the garment. In other words, we'd suggest you treat them like waterproofs.
The Manufacturers' Instructions Remember what we said about people being unsure what they can and can't do to their waterproofs? Well, that's partly because the manufacturers are still catching up with care details and a lot of instructions are quite basic. Sorry about the picture, we ran out and those are instructions, sort of...

Things are changing though, Arc'teryx are about to run a promotion where they give away a sample pack of Grangers products with their new jackets from this summer. The idea is to start educating buyers as to the best way to maintain their kit. That's us of course.

Ironically it's in the maker's interests to do this because the lack of DWR means that the outer face of the fabric gets saturated, the garment stops breathing effectively, condensation forms inside and the user assumes the material is at fault and returns the jacket. Just restoring the DWR or not destroying it in the first place would stop this happening.


Washing It We'll say it again, don't be afraid to wash your kit. Dirt attracts water and stops the DWR working as well and as long as you use the right cleaner, you'll only improve things. That means either a technical cleaner intended for use on outdoor clothing, which will be based on pure soap, or just pure soap flakes.

The latter are much cheaper, but similarly effective, although not really designed for use in washing machines. We've had some success by making a solution of soap flakes in hot water then using ike a liquid, but beware rampant sud syndrome where soapy bubbles escape from the tub and run riot in your kitchen...


The End Of course there's loads more to it, but we were very impressed with the sheer professionalism of the guys at Grangers, the obvious depth of their knowledge and their commitment to making products that work. Particular thanks to Richard and Karolina for fielding our particularly stupid questions and showing us round.


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Right, here is the question - if I apply a wash in DWR to my garment, how do I know that the DWR will not stop the wicking fabric on the inside of the garment working?

Posted: 28/05/2003 at 10:50

You don't.
It will.
Which is why on Nikwax TX-10 wash-in, it says that for use on fabrics with wicking linings, one should apply TX-10 spray-on DWR treatment.
It's messier but it works - and so does the wicking lining...I have successfully applied it to my Marmot DriClime windshirts and made them water-reistant :)

Posted: 28/05/2003 at 10:55

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