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Gearblog! 6 November 2006

Is the new über-technical and super specialised Berghaus Big Wall range aimed at so small a niche that no-one will ever buy it and if so, what is it for?


Posted: 6 November 2006
by Jon

Big wall climbing. I've never done it and, to be honest, I know very, very few people who have and most of those are probably best described as semi-professional mountaineers, or just professional ones.

Most people simple don't have the drive, opportunity or skills to spend several days living on a glorified window cleaner's lift while edging their way up a sheet of blank North American granite. Which rather begs the question of why Berghaus has just thrown its might behind a new range of specialist big wall clothing and equipment.

Super Specialised

Developed over three years in conjunction with their sponsored climbers Leo Houlding and Alex Hüber, the range is probably the most specialised kit the north east-based company has ever come up with and consists of stuff like haul bags, a waterproof inside and out insulated belay jacket to be used in conjunction with a semi-insulated specialist bivvy bag, shell and softshell and so on.

So what's it for? The obvious answer is the small number of British climbers who tackle big walls, but the reality is that most of those guys and girls are sponsored already like, well, Leo Houlding, who features heavily in the ad' push behind the campaign. Leo won't be buying Berghaus Big Wall because he gets it for free.

Edgy...

It's a very impressive ad campaign too, at a cinema near you now and featuring Leo slacklining high above the Yosemite Valley in an edgy, adrenaline-junky sort of way, but what about the kit?

On paper, or screen even, it looks like it might be adaptable to work well in other climbing environments, but after getting hold of a shell and a belay jacket to test, we're not so sure.

Take the beacon orange belay jacket. It's Primaloft insulated and waterproof both inside and out, so it can be worn over soaked clothing without compromising the insulation value. We thought it might also be a great belay mate in, say, frozen, damp, Scotland or even the Alps.

Heavy Duty KIt...

The problem is that for all its rugged promise, it weighs a ton and packs big. Fine if you're hauling kit up a big wall, less attractive if you have to carry it up to the bottom of, say, Tower Ridge or hammer in to Lochnagar for a short winter's day. Oh, and it costs 300-odd quid.

The Gore-Tex XCR Solipsist shell jacket is similarly butch and similarly priced with a massively over-built, super-rugged feel to it and with ostentatious iron-on reinforcement patches on shoulders and elbow plus a so-called Gasket Cuff double seal system at the wrists designed to stop rain from running down your sleeves when you're climbing in the big wall equivalent of a waterfall.

To be fair, the Solipsist, is more versatile than the belay jacket and the same, we suspect goes for the softshell pants and mid-layer garments, but it still costs £300 and at 740 grammes or so, is around 200 grammes heavier than perfectly serviceable and cheaper XCR mountaineering shell from another brand.

I couldn't even tell you whether it's any good for big wall climbing. It's so specialist and the market's so small, which ultimately begs the question of what it's actually for apart from keeping young Leo warm and dry of course...

Flagships That Pass In The Night

Here's a thought, the majority of Berghaus kit and outdoors kit generally isn't bought by committed Himalayan climbers, but by more general users who are reassured the the technical mountaineering credentials of companies like Berghaus.

'If Chris Bonington wore a Berghaus jacket on Everest, then it'll keep me dry on Kinder,' is kind of how it goes. Big Wall fits into that tradition. 'If Berghaus can make clothing for nutty Leo, then they can make it for sane little me' might be the big wall corrollary. It's a flagship sort of thing, or a 'hero product' as those crazy marketing guys might say.

And of course, with luck, those funky technical looks will wow the crossover, fashion folk as well and make for young, sexy, modish streetwear sales, not that that's the idea, of course.

Is it a niche too far? Time and sales, I guess, will tell... You do wonder though, why Berghaus hasn't done the obvious and created a range of fantastic-looking but functional Houlding-signature outdoor gear. Stuff that Leo might choose to wear even if he wasn't sponsored by the company. Now that would be interesting.

More about the Berghaus BIg Wall range at www.berghaus.com


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Have Berghaus totally lost it? Who in the UK is going to find a use for heavy kit with absolutely zero practical use in this country? It looks like they've run out of ideas and are just playing the celebrity card in the hope of sales. It's time they remembered who their core customers are - and that sure ain't big wall climbers, more like middle England 4x4 drivers who walk once a month.

Posted: 06/11/2006 at 15:33

Whether you like it or not, whack the Big Wall range in Ellis Brigham in Covent Garden and it'll shift, irrespective of whether the buyer is off to climb or to catch a tube.

Im ashamed to say that my waterproof shell isn't particularly designed for the usage I give it (Patagonia Stretch Element used for UK hillwalking and backpacking), but I bought it thinking "this will cope with mountains, it will surely cope with hills too".

Posted: 06/11/2006 at 15:44

Maybe it's like when car manufacturers make some absurdly fast limited edition which loses them money, but supposedly gives sporting cachet to the rest of their range.

Or maybe, as Ben says, people will buy it anyway because it's "the best gear".

Similarly, how many people shell out for ultra-lightweight gear they don't really need...?


Posted: 06/11/2006 at 16:01

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