Scarpa Cristallo And Mescalito Compared

Chip off the old block? We pit Scarpa's new scrambling boot against the original...


Posted: 12 June 2008
by Jon

We've just got a pair of Scarpa's Cristallo GTX boots in on test - full review to follow - but as they're being trumpeted as the distant descendent of Scarpa's seminal Mescalito scrambling boot, we thought it would be interesting to compare them, back to back, with the original.

The Mescalito

Scarpa's Mescalito, also known as the El Cap, was a radical beast when it first appeared and arguably it's still the best pure scrambling boot every produced, especially in its original, thinner soled form.

The lasting and fit was based on Scarpa's rock boots, making for a foot hugging, precise boot ideal for edging. The sole was thin enough to keep weight low and close to the rock and made entirely from sticky Vibram rubber and it was stiff enough for outrageous edging performance, but not so stiff that it was uncomfortable to walk in. Plus there was just enough flex for some effective smearing when needed.

The second version had a more walking friendly sole, but for many users, the original was the best and ideal for scrambles and easy to medium mountain routes.

It wasn't completely perfect, the suede upper looked cool, but had all the water reistance of a sponge, but otherwise it was focussed, exocent missile of a scrambling boot.

The New Cristallo GTX

You can spot the visual differences straight away - there's still suede in them there uppers, but it's an interesting 'Fruit Salad' toned affair and it's supplemented with synthetic fabric. Underneath is the Cristallo's trump card, a Gore-Tex liner that means it should shurg off water and snow melt.

The all-round rand is still present, but the boot's cut higher at the ankle and the sole unit is around 8mm or so thicker at the heel. Weight is up, but only by around 100 grammes per pair from 1410 grammes to 1520 grammes.

Overall, it's much more of a lightweight, stripped-down mountaineering boot than a rock boot derivative and that's born out by the more cushioned and more aggressively lugged sole unit.

Back To Back

That's all very well, but what are the differences on the foot? Straight off the Mescalito has a close, glove-like fit, almost like a rock boot helped by the soft upper and lower-cut ankle cuff. It feels very natural and precise on the foot.

The new Cristallo, on the other hand, is definitely boxier and the higher ankle section makes for a more mountain boot-ish, more substantial experience. The fit's still quite close and precise, just not as glove-like as the Mescalito.

Underfoot, the thicker sole unit loses a little precision, but the good news is that edging prowess, stickability and even that little bit of smear-friendly flex are all still there. They're not as single-mindedly precise as grandad, but you can detect the DNA just the same.

We also reckon they're going to be more comfortable for all-round use. The Mescalito's achilles heel was always that its rock performance compromised walk-in comfort with little cushioning and a hard ride for the back of the heel. The Cristallo is just a more civilised beast and a more pronounced rocker on the sole definitely makes for a more natural walking action.

What Does it All Mean?

If you were hoping for a reincarnation of the old Mescalito then we're afraid it's bad news. The Cristallo is definitely clumpier and less deft than the old fella. That's not to say it's clumpy in absolute terms, it's just that it's developed from a lightweight mountaineering boot rather than being a beefed up rock shoe.

It's still extrememly competent on rock, but it's big strength is that it's more versatile. It walks well, it takes a crampon - B1 rated - and the Gore-Tex lining means that it actually makes sense - no soggy uppers... You could happily wander round a glacier in these, which is something you could never say about the Mescalito. If you bought one of those you were buying a rock / scrambling boot with walk-in potential, if you buy a Cristallo, you're getting a significantly more versatile beast that still promises to do the scrambling, rock thing tolerably well.

More information at www.scarpa.co.uk


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