Shopping Tips - Mountain Shell Jackets

Our latest shopping savvy guide tells you how to try on a shell jacket and make sure it works for you.


Posted: 30 April 2008
by Jon

The latest in our series of Shopping Tips is a low down in how to buy a mountain shell jacket. You can find detailed information on technical features and more in our Buyers Guides series, but these tips should give you an easy hit list of when it comes to making sure the jacket does what it needs to.


Get The Fit Right

Just because a magazine gives a particular jacket high marks, doesn't necessarily mean it will suit you. It sounds obvious but try it on - make sure there's enough space for an extra fleece or microfleece if you use one, but not so much space that it flaps around causing internal air current, really. Make sure it's not too short or too long - for harness use, short is fine, but not too short....

At The Front

If you intend to climb in the jacket, make sure that you can adjust waist and hem cords so the front of the jacket is flat enough for you to look down and see your feet - otherwise you'll forever be climbing blind.

Hands Up

You don't want the jacket pulling up when you reach upwards or outwards for holds, so pretend you're reaching up for holds above you and to the side and front. Make sure the hem of the jacket doesn't pull up and the sleeves don't pull down.

Hood Good?

The hood is one of the most important bits of the jacket so test it properly. First cinch everything up without a helmet and make sure that the chin piece is comfortable and protective - it shouldn't press painfully on your face - that you have some facial protection from sidewinds and importantly that the hood moves with your head when you turn it from side to side. Play with the tensioners, it sometimes takes a bit of trial and error to get the fit right.

Helmet Hood Good?

Next, if you intend to climb in the jacket, make sure it will accommodate your own helmet comfortably. In reality very few hoods work well with a helmet underneath, so you may need to supplement it with a balaclava or face mask, but again it should feel comfortable and move with your head.

Glove Control?

In winter you need to be able to adjust zips, pockets and tensioners using gloved hands, so make sure you can. In some cases an extra tag may solve a problem, but some pit-zip openings - for example - can be almost impossible to use in real life. Ideally we like double-ended pit-zips too. Make sure they're useable with a pack on.

Roll Ups?

Uncovering your forearms is a great way of venting effectively. If it's something you do, make sure the cuffs will clear your muscly climber's forearms plus will sit at your elbows easily.

Pocket Rocket

Pockets are a personal sort of thing, but make sure you have enough and they're where you want them. If you climb, make sure you can still access them with a harness on. If you like handwarmer pockets, make sure you can get your hands in them comfortably. And if you don't really use pockets, why buy a jacket with loads of them?


The Golden Rule - If There's One Thing...

A bad hood is a recipe for winter misery but very few buyers try hoods properly, so the first time they realise they've bought a pup is when driven sleet tries to blast their nose off or they find that their helmet doesn't fit right. It's basic and well worth checking properly.


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Discuss this story

I think you guys should have added a point about weight. Personally, I find I spend a far greater proportion of my time wearing my softshell (Marmot Dri Clime), only adding my hard shell when conditions get really grizzly. It therefore stands to reason that people should buy the lightest shell jackets they can find, surely? Obviously you need something a tougher for Scottish winter or Alpine use, but for the vast majority of punters, I'd argue that weight is the main priority.


Posted: 01/05/2008 at 10:15

Good point. In any case, a lot of very lightweight jackets are more than capable of resisting even the foulest conditions, even though they don't give the psychological reassurance of feature-laden "bomproof" ones.

Posted: 01/05/2008 at 12:28

I'm pretty sure the buyer's guide covers weight. The shopping tips are there to help you try stuff on and make sure the features on the jacket or whatever work properly.

As far as weight being the 'main priority for the vast majority of punters', I think what you really mean is weight combined with fitness for purpose and that depends on what you want the jacket to do. Yes, if you wear a highly weather resistant soft shell then it may be that all you're looking for is a very lightweight waterproof jacket with minimal features.

If, on the other hand, you use a different clothing system and your shell is used more, then other factors come into play. Ditto for Scottish winter use, though not necessarily for general alpinism.

It's all very well buying the lightest jacket you can find, but the lightest jacket you can find isn't going to last long with a heavy pack or in mixed climbing conditions, so it depends on your priorities. I'd rather have a well-designed jacket that works properly and weighs 100 grammes more than a really light one with a hood that doesn't close properly, pit-zips that open the wrong way and pockets that foul my harness or waist belt.

Lightweight stuff's very vogueish at the moment and kit generally is lighter across the board, but light weight isn't everything.

Posted: 01/05/2008 at 14:35

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